kickass audio

Bump!! Im sure someone knows how to do something like this.

Ok so i have yet another stupid question for the pros out there. I want to have a system somewhat like meades with the touchscreen on the dash. Right now i have my Alpine IVA-W205 headunit and i was really wanting to make it so that my second laptop can be mounted inside the truck and i can control lots of stuff in the truck with it over bluetooth. What i planned to have is to use the pc as my main unit to sync music and play music, get a bluetooth keyboard and mouse for it, and use my bluetooth remote to control the system and to control my 3sixty.2. I was wondering how i could, if at all, get my laptops screen to be displayed on my alpine h/u and get the screen to still be touch sensitive to what im doing on it and allow me to control some stuff with it. I really dont want to tear my dash apart to make a custom face to fit a huge screen like meade uses or re-locate my climate control unit because i dont really have all THAT much of a need to go that extreme right now. So if anybody knows how i can possibly get my laptop to have an image on my headunit and make it responsive to touch so i can control it please let me know. I know how to get the image on the headunit but making it respond to touch is where im stuck at. BTW, the laptop is a dell inspiron 1521.

Heres how i would approach this... If your battery is "good" as the shop tested it, then try to remove some fuses from your fuse box for accessories such as the playstation, your tv's, headunit, and other add-ons that would not be there if the vehicle came off the show-room floor. Also what i would try to do is take your voltage meter and use it to test your remote voltage just to be sure that you have no voltage lingering through the line on that which can cause your amps to turn on and stay on with everything off. To do this, shut off the entire vehicle and take your multimeters positive probe and put that onto the amplifiers remote wire connection, then take the negative and touch a part of the body/chassis on the vehicle that is free from paint. It should read 0 volts or n/a or something like that depending on the meter. If this still doesnt work, verify your power, remote, and ground wires are in the amp all the way, chances are you may have one of your remote lead wires touching a positive wire in your vehicle which will cause the amps to constantly stay on. If the wires are in all the way, try to remove the remote wires from your amps and put electrical tape over them and leave the vehicle sit. See if this has any affect on your starting abilities. If this fixes the problem then you have an issue where your amps are not turning off when the vehicle is off. I would highly recommend starting with the fuse box first then work your way down the list. And just because i dont want to hear anybody bitch and moan on here, make sure you write down your settings on your radio just to make sure you dont lose any settings/presets when you pull the fuse for it. I noticed that it is an alpine and my alpine unit doesnt lose a single setting, not even the time when i pull the power for an entire day but i dont want to see you cry because you lost your settings. Let me know how this goes and if it helps or not, i can give you a few other things to check out.

Youre welcome bro. Hey its better that you ask and know what to expect than all of a sudden get sharp pains and piss out a stone and not know what happened. Being informed about stuff like this helps you out in the end.

yes you would wire it exactally the way it is in the diagram. the diagram has different impedances than what you will have. Just do this.. 1.) Take the positive and negative of both your subs and connect them both together at the amp. So lets say that the positive of the left subwoofer will be connected on the same terminal as the positive of your right subwoofer. Do the same thing for your negative terminals. I prefer to connect the subwoofer wires together at the amp because its easier if you are using bigger speaker gauge wire it will be hard to combine them on the subwoofers terminals since the terminals on speakers are so damn small.

when you start your car do you hear like a click ticking noise and see your gauges fall down as it happens? if so then your batteries are shot and may need a good charge or just to be replaced. Also try to do this, i made an oops on my car and drilled through the sending unit of my gas tank when i was grounding in my trunk (stupid noob mistake). open your door and turn off your radio and anything else that can make noise. Turn your cars key to the "on" position but do NOT put the key to the start position. You should hear like a slight hum noise for 3-5 seconds and then you will hear it stop. If you hear this then it means your fuel pump is engaging and should be sending fuel into your engine. And what you can do if you havent already from cranking the engine over and over again look at your spark plugs. Check the gap on them to make sure its good and see if there is any built up fuel onto it. chances are you have a shit ton of fuel onto them and they are saturated which will not allow it to spark and ignite the fuel. Id say maybe get some carb/choke cleaner and spray down all your plugs and then wipe the tip completely off and let it sit out for a min to dry out. Once all your plugs are dried out then put them back in. After you do that try to open up your throttle and spray a light mist of the carb/choke cleaner inside the engine while a friend turns the car over. If this gets the engine to sputter then it means the plugs are igniting the fuel. If you cant get it to start then chances are you either have a cracked or clogged fuel line. I had the same problem with my car that i drilled through the sending unit on and what it did is i really had 1/4 of a tank of gas but after i drilled through it, it read it as being totally full but the fuel pump wouldnt engage at all when i tried to crank it. After i had the entire fuel tank and sending unit replaced out of nowhere the damn car would start very roughly. Turns out the jackass mechanic i had work on my car fucked up my fuel filter when he did it and it was leaking fuel so i didnt have good fuel pressure into my fuel lines. this prevented my car from starting good for awhile until i repaired the entire fuel rail.

Hey Matt, I wanted to see if you have any way i can get some extra amperage out of my current setup. I have a 2004 GMC Envoy with the I-6 engine and you hooked me up with the 270 amp alt from you that i totally love. I would really want to get a second alt in there because i am about to have around 16kw give or take rms for a system and i dont think a 270 amp alt will cut it. I right now have all the big-3 done with an xs s3400 and d3100 in the truck and it works perfect. I just want to know if there is any way i can get a second alt into that small ass engine bay without having to cut at the frame or take out the air compressor or other equipment. Please let me know if you can do something for this. Thanks!!

no problem man. take it easy. dont do anything strenuous with these because it can cause them to unexpectedly work its way out.

It isnt much of a suprise. My dad would usually wake up and have pains in his lower back and would go a few days until he would pass it. So there is never a true time you know when its going to come.

My dad has been passing them for a year now. They are no joke. He still has a catheter in to help pass them easily. They hurt like a bitch from what my dad says. Think about sticking something big inside ur junk, its not made to have stuff like that going through there lol. They may just take you and either put you into a like bath that has ultrasonic waves that will help break up the kidney stone or they will go in with a probe and try to extract it themselves and if they cant they will just blast it with high pressure water and then have you piss it out. They are no fun to have and thank god im only 19 and dont have one but my sister who is 23 has had 3 already. From what my dad described to me is that when you are getting ready to pass one you can feel it working its way throughout your body and you can feel the pain in your back. He said it feels like someone is sticking needles in your back and lower stomach until you pass it. And if the kidney stone has a slight hook onto it, it will hurt even more than a rounded kidney stone. For my dad he has had like 5 3mm kidney stones and he has been passing them for quite awhile. Its not anything fast to get fixed. It takes time for your body to work its way out.

Ah ok. I got ya. Yea. This is a little bit gray area and there are ppl online that talk about it in depth. Just gotta take ur time to find it as all.

Crunk it is used for that and like I described in the second post. Its a big topic and research online can do wonders for a real answer. And op, idk how ur woofer moved outwards cuz all mine moved in a little. But oh well. Maybe someone on here knows.

And fyi, there's a ton of guides online about the phase settings if u want all the details. Just Google subwoofer phase or setting subwoofer phase. Normally it should be set to in. I have on rare occasions seen a setup on out for the phase.

It should in all honesty be set to in because normally the door speakers are in meaning like how u said the battery test will pull the speaker in. It shouldn't make a whole hell of a lot of difference. To be honest I never seen the phase matter unless it was a sealed enclosure setup.

first of all speakers work on alternating current so they still push in and out. And secondly ill just copy and paste what i helped a guy out on here in the home theater section with when he had a question about phase... It is used to help make the bass notes reproduce at the same time that the front speakers will be producing the same sound. Lets say for example you have a movie on and a sudden explosion just happened in the movie, well if your subwoofer was out of phase you would notice that your subwoofer will play the sound of the explosion first and then hear the front/center channel speakers play the explosion a little later (this can be the other way around as well). This is basically delay because the bass takes a little bit longer to travel than your front/center speakers do. The easiest thing you can do to try out the phase for the best results is to set up your furniture and everything just as if you are going to sit down and relax and watch a movie or listen to some music. Set the phase to 0 and listen to the music, if you hear some delay in the bass notes from the front speakers playing the same music/tone then you should try to replay the same soundtrack with your phase set to 180. It should fix the delay you may have experienced. Or you can just listen to something with bass and set the phase to 0 and see if its loud and then have a friend or somebody help you switch it to 180 and see if it gets louder. If the sub is in phase it will be louder than if it was out of phase. (sorry for the long explanation) So just play with the switch and see which one is louder and see which one will prevent you from canceling out certain frequencies. Like if you have a test tone playing through your entire system, if the speakers are out of phase from eachother, that test tone will be very low sounding, if even at all. When they are all in phase the tone will be loud and clear. So play around with it and see which setting suits your needs and if you need help, i can help you out.

well how much of a price are you willing to pay? For a remote that will go off with your alarm you are going to pay quite a bit for that and most of the time glass shatter sensors are not included and you need to get one separately for the damn good units. I personally run a viper 5901 that i got off sonic electronics and it is a beautiful unit and you can adjust the sensors very well and easily. Dont expect to get a good unit for a cheap price, it just wont happen. Fork over the money for a good unit to be protected.

yes, thats pretty much what i was saying to do. some tv's have them setup differently but thats what you should give a try and see if it works any better. my friends projection tv had the same problem as you are describing and we cleaned the tv out completely and it helped but it didnt make it perfect until we re-calibrated the guns on the tv which then it made it flawless for a picture. so take it one step at a time.

hey do you have the model of that tv? sometimes they have ways you can re-calibrate the crt's without having to rip apart the rear of the tv.

the haze like that usually means that either the mirrors inside are just dirty or the light needs cleaning or what not. or like superjay said the crt's inside are out of tune which is the biggest pain in the ass to set by yourself because you are in the back of the tv screwing around with it and you cant see shit on the front of the tv to see how well it is or isnt being aligned. and trust me when i tuned my 27" samsung hdtv crt set, it was the biggest pain in the ass. I got it working even better than it did out of the box but it took me months of screwing with everything and a few nasty shocks from slipping with the tools and hitting the wrong parts. haha. If anything, try to do just this. Get your computer and download pictures that have nothing but a picture for pure red, pure green, and pure blue (since these tv's have one crt display of red, green, and blue inside them) and see if by displaying just these pure colors if it is blurry. If it isnt then that proves flat out that your crt's are out of alignment and need to be re-calibrated which is something that can be done but its a pain in the ass.

also, projection tv's sometimes have ways that you can align and adjust the picture just like a crt tv. Its a pain in the ass to do and if you do it wrong you can either get a shock of your life or make the tv worse than it was before you started working on it.

do you possibly have a pic of it acting up? I know the refresh bars of the tv are a pain in the butt to get past in a picture but see if you can get a pic of it doing it. It sounds kinda like you may have a dirty pinwheel if it is a projection tv which it looks like or your bulb is on the way out. Try to clean the color pinwheel inside it and the bulb but be very careful and gentle with it.

I know how to get the new belt to fit. Since you have a truck and i do as well, we can strap the belt onto our trailer hitches and go in opposite directions to stretch it out. then it will fit XD lmfao!!

Now thats the finger that got the job done. lmao

ah ok. glad it works with the old one. What you could have done as long as you didnt have belt slippage was wear your new one in a little bit too. But if i were you id keep the new one with you at all times so if your old one breaks on you, you at least have a spare to get home with. I always keep a spare belt in my truck even though its only a single alt.

hmm i really think they gave you the wrong size belt. shit happens in a warehouse. ppl are not perfect. lol. About how much length would you say you had when you fully depressed the tensioner to get that belt over the pulley for your fan? How many inches was it? I would assume maybe a inch or so. If its possible id see of you can go to autozone or somewhere cheap and get a test belt and see if it fits with it being an extra inch or 2 longer than the gatorback you have now. Also, how tight is your belt on the engine since you bypassed a few of those pulleys?