herbykw

I ordered my XLs and they ha them ready to pick up before I got there (about 2.5 hour drive). I couldn't wai for shipping. They gave me a few stickers and Rusty gave me a lil tour of the place. Great customer service.

DO NOT USE THIS. I did the same thing this is what the maxxonics help tech recommended and yes I used the exact model number they recommended. Less then 5 minutes later there was smoke and SPARKS comming from one of my amps were the remote wire plugs in. It was destroyed the other amp was still usable for a couple weeks. Then it died. I told the company what happened and they said "that sucks, you did something wrong, sorry". How can you use that wrong? I triPle checked to make sure everything was right cause I didn't want to fuck up my amps.

IM a newb to the oscopes. Does unhooking the subs make a difference in what the oscope shows? or does it just make less noise? Also 0db and -5db? You dont use a tone that matches the frequency of the box?

I watched these two, and they were teasers... Cant wait for more.

Hey Thor, when we going to see some videos with those AB1100.1s? Or the the DC amps?

Money cant buy happiness, but it can buy you a jet ski, have you ever seen a sad person on a jet ski? Money can buy a lot of things that can make you happy

call or email Rusty. Thats all i did for my XL 15"s he had them ready for me in about 2 hours Ph: (775).425.5700 [email protected]

My DCs hit pretty hard. I am pushing them with a Memphis Mojo 16-MCD4KW. Always trying to find a better box idea, try to get more out of what i got.

if you build a better box or a wall, you might not be able to get a full hair trick, but you should be able to get some hair movin. Hell if you wall it, you should be able to do better then mine. I like my back seat too much to Wall. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4DBkSH6nJtw

I have DC lvl 4 XLs and i love them. I was goin to order AQ HDC3s but they didnt have the right size and voice coils availible at the time. The price difference wasnt much. The DCs sound quality is great.

Just wire them up to power, and use a toggle switch or a relay module. Same as running fans.

Here is some real pics that i took. I found the fuse, and it works great. A few adjustments and it looked a bit better. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xd3rJ3kNv1I http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xd3rJ3kNv1I

This is BULLSHIT! no wonder why i cant find any info online "Old Electronics Kit Manuals Forced Offline Thanks To Copyright from the can't-learn-unless-you-pay dept If you're unfamiliar with the important history of Heathkit and its popular electronics and computer "kits," it's worth reading the Wikipedia entry on Heathkit to get some background. The company and its products were an important part of the post-WWII "tinkerers" era. However, one of our readers, Joseph Durnal, just discovered something rather disturbing. Even though the company stopped making and selling kits back in 1992, it apparently just sold the copyrights on its old manuals to another company, which is going around forcing any old manuals offline and demanding people buy them instead: On October 30, 2008, Data Professionals of Pleasanton, CA purchased the Intellectual property of the Heathkit legacy products from Heathkit in Benton Harbor, Michigan. This rights to these legacy products also includes the copyright. All free manuals have been removed from this site in compliance with copyright laws. So, now, anyone still playing around with decades old Heathkit products can't look online for some information from a missing manual, but instead is expected to pay up for a reprint."

It has one tube type fuse in the back. The guy sold it cause he didnt know what it was. Someone had stepped on the fuse holder and broke it off. I got it for $15, i have a new fuse holder, but dont know the proper fuse to put in it. Its a Heathkit 10-12. Yes the pics were taken from google. I took pics but the lightingsucked.

Anyone have any info?

I had the same problem. My car was overheating, and i took it in. They said they would check it out and it would take 2 days. Two days later they said they were still working on it and to call the next day. I called again, and they said it should be done the next day. That day i was pissed, I called and they told me they were still working on it, i went off and the guy said "ok, ill get one of the guys to get STARTED on it, stop by in half an hour." I went by and they told me my radiator hose was broke, and i was loosing all my water and that's why it was overheating. It didn't have a leak or anything when i dropped it off. They told me they could fix it for $80 plus the cost of the part. I told them to fuck off. They said i couldn't drive the car the way it was, i took the car, fixed the hose, and did a nice burnout in front of their shop. You didnt take your car to a Pepboys did you?

I just picked up this old oscope for real cheap. I dont know if will work for my system, but i figured it was worth a shot. Does anyone have one of these? ever use one? It is missing the fuse, and i am trying to find out what size fuse it uses. Google is not being my friend today. Thanks everyone.

SEXY !! Cant wait for vids.

If you only have one amp, put a 200a fuse in the power wire within 18" of the amp. If you have two amps, use a 400a fuse.

The Iraggi for $439 i believe is the amputator series right? If you look at the normal 220 amp alt the price is a little nicer. From my understanding the amputator series puts out the same power, but at a lower idle. I don't know about the powerbastards being cheap. But you can get a HO alt other places for $200-$300, like all things i'm sure you get what you pay for, and i'm sure the cheaper ones have to be at a higher idle to get the power(if they put out the rated power) EDIT: as soon as I have the Money i am getting teh Iraggi 220a. Probably not the amputator series though.

The highest recommended i have seen are DC, Iraggi, Mechman and excesive amperage. The cheapest quote i got for a 200a for my car was through Iraggi. But there are other companies that make them and are cheaper. Powerbastards.com was cheaper, but i asked around and no one i found really uses them... so its a gamble. Could be a good product at low price, could be trash.

I give mine 2000wrms each and they take it like its nothing. I think i need more power

When my car got out of the shop from having the finder repaired they said they had to tack on an extra $200 for parts. I asked them why, and they said all the rivit things holding the bumper and lights in place were stripped out. After that i demoed my system for a guy and the display on my deck went out. but then again

What kinda car is it? Looks nice