fritosaregood

Build pics!!

ill have to check some of my decaf songs. Mine peaks at 37~38 so ill just have to look at the songs i usually demo with. I know hood stomped out is around there, but its only a 3 or 4 second burst, then 3 or 4 seconds of words, then another 3 or 4 seconds of bass. You enjoying that free lvl4 yet? haha

Does it have to be the commercially available only songs?

bump this thing up. Anyone close should come, there should be a few big builds there. maybe a few in the 60s. Giant trophies too There should also be 3 or 4 setups ive designed, haha

has to be a 5 min long song? I know a decaf song that peaks around that, since thats my peak too, but its edited and not constant bass. if that matters.

my goal for next year too. except im making it a little easier on me and doing it in the kick

there arent many 2.5" 18s,

I always thought it might be wrong, are the sae amps a d class? thanks skittles

hopefully it will get to a above a 47.5, we have our local finals in a month and im trying to beat out a guy that one of my comp buddies built a box for. but the next guy up is running a crx doing 50s already.. so hopefully i can get him second place, im also kind of debatin on convincing him to go with the sax1200. i keep seeing that the 1000 only had 3 25amp fuses. and that confused me a little

they are d4 it would be wired to 1ohm strapped to 2 1500s and we decided on just a 1k so he wouldnt have to do much in electrical upgrades, maybe the big 3 at the most. and since we decided on that, i built the box a little oversized to compensate. id like to say it will do a little over a 50 dependings on how the subs handle it. just a little worried on it since the box is oversized. (on the 3k)

im definitely gonna help him wire up the next amp, might even go a little over kill and run some 0 gauge.

thanks, i like this one for only 380 watts, his mirror has already fallen off once now. im gonna see if i can talk him into a better battery up front for when he gets the sundown 1k in i might decide too hook them up to 3k for fun one day, haha

... i almost gave the thumbs up,, but now i have to edit it because you got it backwards

Daily port score Comp port score

winnar^^^ we accidentally created a small black hole from it.. its cool thought i used the motors from the subs to keep it under control in the port, haha someone is very close... and they were done in the kick with the driver door open, so no sealed score.

only one guess so far?? im off to work now, numbers when i get back. the one who gets closest get one of those thumbs up smileys, hah

temp amp install the truck happy customer

I got one of my friends hooked on sundown when he heard fritosgirl's sa 10s, So he jumped on getting some of the 12s Hes got a dodge ram single cab and wanted to have the subs and port firing up, It fits and he still has some legroom. i build the box a little oversized because he doesnt want to run too much power. anyway, to Sa 12s on a walmart pioneer amp, 380 rms. The box has a port plug that will tune to 38 for daily and 52 for comps. I metered it usaci style with both tuning options. Lets get some guesses on his score and ill post up what it did tonight around 11pm. (4:43 hear now) pics

the electrical should be alright, but keep an eye on your voltage to make sure

you still need more port area, since its just pipe and not flared

there is some math behind it If your using 3/4 inch mdf on say a 3 inch radius kerf. your outside radius will be 3inchs and the inside radius will be 2.25 inches so you take 1/4 the circumference of the 3inch radius part and subtract 1/4 the circumference of the 2.25 inch radius kerf the distance you get will the the distance of wood you need removed. to find how many cuts that is you divide that by your saw blades thickness i think most are 1/8". so by that logic, every 90 degree bend in 3/4" mdf will have the same amount of cuts. the only thing that changes is the spacing. to find the spacing you just divided it out evenly. and add 2 cuts on each end( so if you were looking at an actual circle you have a cut at 0 and 90 degrees and then however many cuts in between them as for depth. i just test and test the blade depth before i do a kerf each time. i just use a piece of scrap and get it deep enough where its easy to bend, but not so deep that it rips apart if i try to move it so for the math 3" radius circle_ circumference is 18.85"_ 1/4 circum is 4.71" 2.25" radius circle_ circum is 14.137"_ 1/4 circum is 3.534" so the amount of wood you need to remove is 4.71-3.534 = 1.176 so you number of cuts is -- 1.176 / (1/8) = 9.4 so 10 cuts you have that you need 10 cuts now for a 3/4 board, plus the 2 cuts on the end. so 12 cuts for 3/4 inch wood.

my rule is when i have a single side kerf i like to keep it close too, but not bigger than the port width. If i have 2 flares i cut it in half. but its not absolutely necessary to have them that big. my last few boxes have been all 3" kerfs, and sometimes i go smaller do to size restrictions. for yours i would do a 2.5" radius kerf on just one side. Its already gonna be a little tough doing one that small and 37.5 inches long and also, just my preference but i would make to top and port all out of one piece with 3 bends in it. outside flare, 90degree bend, and inside flare. not sure if you just forgot to put the inside flare or what, but you should really use it if your gonna flare one end. then just add a second baffle above or below the top of the kerf piece. I always add the second baffle on top for better strength, since your kerf will need to to have to be in the inside of the side pieces, youll just have another piece on top that covers the side piece ends and the kerf pieces top. if that makes sense and for making the inside flare, make your boards total length about 3 inches longer than you need, that way you have something to hold onto when you do the inside kerf, and then just take a circular saw to it one its done dryed to get rid of it. you cant kerf the piece with a few jigs outside of the box and then put it in and hope you built your jigs straight and it all lines up good, or you can bend it while your attaching it to the rest of the box. but if you bend it when your putting it in the box your will still need to do the inside flare first so you can cut the lip off that is used to help you bend it. I hope most of this makes sense, but its kind of hard to describe without a visual reference for me to help show.

what went wrong?

does your circular saw blade tilt? im sure it does, just tilt the blade. and run it down the board with another board clamped on top to guide it. it will be alot cheaper, and the boards will most likely get damaged in shipping too.

didnt this same thread happen like 2 days ago?