Bunker

whats it going in trunk of a car, truck, or suv. What are the specs

You might get a small amount if it was me I would go with no less then 40sq of port for that box their would be more things you could do with it if the box was bigger but I do know the specs of that sub.

No disrespect to you sir but it's trial and error my friend you will see. The answer to your question, will it work yea but it's not enough port area. Some people have to learn the hard way.

Chode69 It was the power series we had 4 of them in a f-150 on 2 T3's and they just don't hold up for us man we never had one last more than 4 months except for the HX2 series to us that was the best never blew one of those. Don't get me wrong we got good numbers but the subs just sounded like shit. All I'm saying for 480 you can get a better sub that's all

I'm not bashing RF at all. Their amps are great but I myself have had nothing but bad luck with their subs. I haven't herd the BL's or BTL's but I know for sure the ssd's and Q's are great for the money.

To be honest their will always be people who need someone to install something. Just a pointer some of the products you plan on selling ain't so cheap most people want a cheap setup just to have something you know first setup deal they don't want to spend 2500 to 5000 for their first setup. Just for an example say a kicker cvr 15 you sell it at 250 when I can get it for 100 ,that I think will be factor when said and done man everybody wants everything for the cheapest price possible no matter what it is. For the guys who go big that I know get most of it direct, for this reason cut the middle man out and you save some money. The best advice I can give is take it slow and see what the people want. Your installs will bring you the most profit.

I've been like that for years bro nothing to worry about you will get use to it over time.

depending on your setup that will determine what class your in they put you in class by fuse pretty much and the power your running. On your fuse question you have to run one 16in from the amp but if you don't run one by the amp they will just put your in the 5th class. Street/ cars subs in trunk, Trucks ext = below the back glass and the box cant go past the side doors, Trucks crew cab you have to keep the back seat in and its the same on glass and doors, SUV below the glass lines with 5th row in. No mods except 2 layers of damping material on the roof only if you have it else were just don't say anything. If you have any fiberglass anywhere besides the box you go straight to mod. I don't think you should have to worry about X or R class. You can run all the batteries you want The name of the game is who can run the smallest fuse unless your in the 5th class.

28hz 6 3/4 x 47.5 x 30 7/16 30hz 7 1/4 x 47.5 x 25 3/8

It's trial and error my friend just remember that it doesn't mean if you have a 600 dollar sub vs my 300 dollar sub and they both have the same rms rating that the 600 dollar sub will be better than the 300 dollar sub. Yes in some cases that is true but not all. But from you selection I agree with the lvl 4 18

Minimum Area = 314.75 at 28hz slot port/ 6 3/4 x 48 x 30 3/4 Minimum Area = 337 at 30hz slot port/ 7 1/4 x 48 x 25 11/16

Funny bashing kicker you would be surprised what you can do with a couple of cvr's or cvx's

Has to be a short somewhere man but I'm no pro either I fry plenty myself.

maybe a rca problem

What are you doing to stiffen teh rear wall/window flex, it is way to much in my truck. Or did he mdf stiffen it up enough? if someone stands in the bed and hold sthe glass you can hear/feel the loss when they let go. I'm not sure how yours is but mine has groves in it, but I used MDF and for the groves I used a can of expanda foam for the gaps and covered it with roll roof little to no flex. My main problem has been the side windows they have a latch and they move way to much, if I had it my way I would just wall it and be done. Our test here in TN are weird we have to test with the mic in the seat but that's MECA for ya, another thing I have done is bought some cheap rubber wheel block and a trash grabber and wedge them in between the back wall and bed of the truck looks like shit but it works.

Trucks are a pain in the ass some times. What I have seen work the best is a wall or clam but your in the same boat as I am keeping it below the back glass, one thing I have done is to put the subs as high as I can gave me a .2 db gain ain't much so I took it all out and MDF the whole truck except the windows, doors, and floor board and then covered it with cheap roll roof got a 3 db gain much better and at a competition I said the hell with it and tried out some window blocks another .5 db gain. Setup was subs forward port up went from 145 to 148.5 db at 46hz and 80 bucks. Their is tricks but for the most part its trial and error. For some reason trucks just need more power

On my projects mostly trucks I use MDF on the roof with pro grab and 1 layer of roll roof to cover the MDF and I get little to no flex and on the back wall it's MDF with expanda foam and 2 layers of roll roof and the floor board is 3 layers of roll roof. Doors are 2 layers of roll roof. Roll roof is cheap and works just as good as dynamatt in my opinion but I use MDF best thing I found but looks ugly if you don't cover it up.

You could go with 4 3" ports and it would be right at 12 and a 1/8" long and that's each.

Yes you can make money with goggle but your not going to get rich by any means. Most people quit because they may make 5 dollars in a month the truth is you can make money doing a lot of things but your not going to get rich, look at it as a part time job. If you make your own website and have the time to keep up with a good niche then SEO is the place to be. Just remember it takes money to make money.

This is somethings we do. We will take a sealed box and turn it all over the place to get our peak and to see which way the sub was facing when it got the highest numbers. Then after we know our peak we build a box with a removable port for the peak hz'z, then go back through all the setups before and get what we can get and then we would build a final box. It takes time but it's worth it in the end.

To figure out the amp draw just do 1400 watts divided by 12 volts so 1400/12 = 116.66 amps. just do the same thing for 14 volts or whatever your volt is.

In your address bar just type in hotmail.com

I was having the same problem 2 weeks ago so I had the battery tested and it came back fine but I knew something wasn't right so I pulled everything out and started over and it still done the same thing then I changed the front battery out for a kinetik HC1400 and after that it doesn't drop below 13.3 but at this time its hard to tell since I fried my good amp but that worked for me.

slot 4x25x3 7/8 square 4x25x16 3/8 37hz

Take the port and just turn it over. What I mean look at the palm of your hand then the picture then turn your hand over palm down. and theirs your port design.