skittlesRgood

did you unhook the other six and see if the ones you unplugged first look the same?

yea I saw your thread. Nice door panels. She definitely does not care about this car enough to go through all of that. see if she wants those door pods. im not using them. they are bare fiberglass though

in that price range, its all about the same. AP, hifonics, mbquart. none of them will be stellar amps. look for a used sundown sae-1200. should cost around $175

sadly, dont think the age ever really maters. my grandpa died when my dad was 59. still wasnt easy for him. sorry about your guy's fathers... dont even want to think about when i will go through that.

Yea, I was thinking of this one. Got my uncle one not too long ago for his sub setup for around $150ish. It's currently pretty loud in her Rendezvous with that the amp she has/had, but she's moving it into a 85 SS Monte Carlo, so I wanted it to work well in that closed off trunk too. Pics of "lady friend" will not be happening lol. if you want to talk about systems in a rendezvous, im your guy

No one calls dc power, or deals with them because of the stories we read here. "alt took 10 months to ship, then they sent the wrong one" Singer has a lifetime warranty I do believe. huh, i guess everyone ignored the stories like mine where they sent my alt out the very same day. i called to ask some questions and rob called me later from his cell phone to make sure I had all my questions answered. there is no possible way that any company could have treated me better. most of the bad stories i heard from DC customers have been special orders and ya, those take a long time. their alts and not crazy expensive. they have different models with different price points. their top of the line alt is expensive but its the best alt you could find. thats why the military buys it from them.

no one calls DCpower anymore? lol

when an electrolytic cap is completely discharged, it is a dead short. no resistance. just hooking it up to your car would not be smart.

you use a resister or a car (dc) light bulb. once the light goes out, its charged and safe to install. just hooking it up to the car will create a dead short at first. BUT, throw the cap away. you just wasted your money on it unless its an ultra cap. and im sure it isnt.

so? get back to work making that wall. thats a good block to use next. lol pretty cute. they are just strays hanging out in there huh?

dont do it at full tilt. just place it anywhere in the box, multiple places though. its just an idea to be able to look at pressures inside the box. nothing ive ever done but i would imagine it will help you understand what the problem is, if the box is indeed the problem.

if you have access to a TL it might be interesting to look at the scores in different places inside the box. that would tell you if you are getting a ton more pressure in one area than another. might help you understand what is going on.

if you want to keep the same box, and if its a box problem, put 10" sono tubes behind every sub that are at least as long as the sub is deep. im not sure what length would be best though. that will help even out the pressure behind each sub.

it wasnt the same box though was it?

thinner than all car audio wire? thats a stupid statement. welding wire follows the actual standard and is the CORRECT size. car audio follows sales, marketing and profit. some companies have thick wire and some have stupid small wire.

oohh, ya. we like pics.

oh, another piece of advice. remember this is the internet and people are not always subtle in their communication. if someone tells you something you did "sucks" dont take offense. they dont mean it as an insult or a personal attack. just be cool and listen to the advice on how to fix it.

1. the amp should be filtering before it amplifies but the way you have it is fine. however, i would set it to 80hz. it will help your mids sound less muddy. 2. the pioneers are a pretty decent set from what i hear. i had the older model and loved them but these are fairly different. im a big fan of image dynamics if you want to look for a good set. 3. you could do that but installing one midbass speaker means you lose stereo. so drums and bass guitars sound like they come from that one spot. to edit in your later post, a mono amp would give you the same problem. almost the same problem anyways. you can increase midbass by sealing all those big holes on the inner metal skin of the door. people usually do this with some sheet metal, screws and deadener (second skin, dynamat, etc). start with that and see how you like it. 4. you can y-split RCAs. some amps have a pass through for the RCAs. some people wire more than one speaker to a channel. there are several options, all of them can be done horribly wrong or perfectly fine. 5. great call on the LC-1. thats the best way to do it. 6. do a lot of reading here. look at build logs. they will be long and full of bullshit but look at the pics and see what people are doing. get a jump start and learn some basic ohms law, its very useful.

copper is copper.

I know hes in savage customs in TX. I just don't know whether he owns it or just works there. hmm... cause im thinking we find this shop on yelp and blast them.

i would be shocked if you could find a boot that you could fit that much wire through. i drilled through the firewall and made my own grommet to protect the wire.

yep

one or two is fine because the engine bay isnt delivering all the power your amps take. a lot of it is done from the rear battery bank. you only need as much wire as the alt and front battery can supply. definitely run your grounds front to back but an extra chassis ground is good too.

so this guy has his own audio shop?

sounds just like what my team mates went through with another team mate of ours, greg.