windowtinter

well i have a customer/buddy that calls me up a week or so and says hey i just ordered a turbo kit for my truck after a few days this is what we came up with. this is a full custom kit put together in about 3days so its very cude in its development but has some definate potential. very low boost running wastegate 4lb spring with some pressure loss due to long charge pipe run, still needs a tune and 39#injectors on abround 9lbs should be in the 400-450 wheel ish.

im no bandpass pro but have built a few smaller setups so I knew what to expect to an extent but i did lots of asking around and finally settled on this setup(80inches helped alot).but as for tuning i can say that the 48hz tuning on this box probably plays lower than a good 35hz ported box but also has very good upper range response, i can say i am impressed with the overall quality of the bass and the loudness. For those thinking bandpass dont go crazy and tune too low youll just be chopping the port down to get the output up. as was stated above tuning a 4th order is completly different than a standard ported box!

like I told rob @DC today there is nothing like having a customer pick up his truck after trusting us to do what we do and not really even know what he was getting, he gets his first listen and takes a few steps back with the biggest smile and say "man that shit is loud" then Iburp the air horn that rattles him so much he can only laugh,and all i can say is "I told you so". Thats is why I love this stuff so much!

1.5 per sealed 12ported with 20"sq./cube tuned @48 awesome overall smooth sound that gets nasty on the low side but the 50hz region will make your skin itch a lil as well.

just 2 alts one stock the other mechman 270 both run the truck and system together for somthiing like350-400amps total out put. we used his avbm to run both alts @16.5 out put which is the max pretty much that the truck factory electronics will take. voltage drop with a total of 4 batts with 2-3500 strapped@1ohm was in the low 14 high 13 full tilt.

2011 dodge ram with 4lvl4 15 and one db drive 3500 @.6 for now, sound awesome and chushes the lows.]

finished up this build and I got the lvl5's thanks agsin meathead! heres a few pics if anyone cares.

exactly what CJ said! guess ill keep hunting.

nothing like any of you think. Rusty is out of stock on the lvl5 so I cant get it from him. So I figured id try and find some due to the fact the customer doesnt want to wait till Rusty has them back in stock if I cant find any then basically we will have to use the DB WDX sub that is the next best thing that we sell subwoofer wise. We always use DC in our good sub builds but if I can t get them what else can I do. AS for the customer he left 6k for a deposit dropped the truck off said he wanted it loud and he wanted the loudest train horn we could get the rest was up to us other than a few minor details he really doesnt care. SO if anyone has or know where i can get lvl5 motors or subs please let me know. Watch The Bass thank you.

I am a DC delear but i cant get any subs like im sure most of you know, but im in real need of some lvl5 motors that are buildible or i need 2-18's with d1.4 stealth coils or d1 stealth coils. I need them for a customers build asap or else the boss is gonna make me run DB drive WDX subs. Idont want to do that so someone please help

have a customer with about 3-3.5k (2-bb2400 strapped @1ohm) on a 15"xl for over a year now it was @2ohm for a bout six months and we reconed for a 1ohm load and the 2ohm coil was perfect. Be warned as been stated before they dont mind a clean 3kish but DO NOT LIKE 3kish clipped and there is a very fine line between the two, basically dont do it unless you scope it and have good voltage! only xl coil i have seen go down on a correct setup was 2xl's on a SD8k with a full clip enough to shut the amp down.

i have scoped a few of the nicer new style pioneer units and if sub lvl is flat you should get a lil more than 3/4 volume before clipping with a 0db tone. the only coil i have seen go down on a DC that was actually the coil letting go was a SD8k on a pair of xl's on a real hard clip other than that i had a guy turn one black as coal on a lvl4 with lvl5 coil (before the new stealth coil) the coil never let go but the glue broke down and caused the coil to shift and eventually rub through. long story short you are CLIPPING. like was stated above touch the cap if its warmer than just a lil bit thats gonna be a hard clip, depending on power an xl should take a lil clip for a good while but is DEFINATLY NOT RECOMMENDED!

got a pair on a orion [email protected] in a 4th order =slammin!

rusty has been trying to get a good option for CF caps and cones for a good while, its my understanding that he has been through alot of different suppliers and apparently he has one that can do the job the way he wants it done (overbuilt) which seems to be the way he handles most of his projects.Seeing these only means that there is more CF to come at least thats what im hoping for so maybe then A-team can revisit the RipRock machine and push the limits of the neo?

i did forget to mention that they had 5 spiders and in a 10 cube total box but after we went to dual tinsel leads he never had a problem again and that has been a yr. and a half since the original build.He is a local DJ and beats the crap out of them whenever hes in the truck.Our original shop build was going to be a 16k and 4xl 18's so ihave know doubt if your carefull with the volume knob and pay close attention to the clip light you will never have a problem. Obviously this is with proper everything else to support it.

i have personally done 2-xl18's and a soundigital 8k for a customer and the only problem was a full clip blew out the tinsel leads as they were the older version with single leads instead of the duals they come with now.

8 DC neo 18's think i heard they were out but can build more 4 soundigital 12-16ks bandpass or 6 dc lvl6 18's 3 soundigital 16ks on 16v either one of these should do what you want of course with all the electrical to support the power of course.

so now im talkin say 3cube rear bout 50sq in.port at 33hz and 8.5cube front tuned around 55hz. 140sq. in. port

thanks dwright so with a 18"xl i should be in the vacinity of 5cubes rear tuned around 30-35hz 70-80sq.in port and 10cube front with 180-210sq in. port at around 55-60hz?or does it need to be a little smaller boxe size due to the amount of power?(should be around 3000-3500watts rise dependent of course)thanks for the help and to any one else who may offer input.

doing a 18"xl in a cut through f150 looking to do a nasty bandpass since he should have the room but im not well versed on bandpass design so i was hoping for some pointers as to front and rear volume and overall port size per cube and tuning front and rear,due to the fact it is four stiff spiders and will see somewhere around 3000-3500 im guessin that a 6th order will be ideal.looking for a decent passband tuned fairly low as his daily box now is at 33hz tuning. thanks in advance for any suggestions or help.

i sure hope it will rock the guy just picked up his woofer and tossed it in a prefab on a whole 500-600 in his runaround van till his motor is done in the vette but i think i convinced him to go sub up port back didnt wanna build sub foward port back and have to junk the box.will be doing the build in a week or so it should be a good one.

go ta customer that is doing a 4xl 12 in a mid nintes vette the all glass hatch style with 2 2400 watt amps strapped @2ohm so about 2800-3000 with rise.my question is if anyone has done a setup in one of these for music probably go 1.75tuned at 35-36 with about 26sq.in of port its an older guy who listens to alot of rock was thinking sub foward port back or up and back but looking for some advice?

well the plan is to not go over board on the front end but still do some glass and paint work custom kicks so a pillars for tweeters probably but thats about it.but on the sub bass side im a bass head at heart so its gotta be sick.the amp rack(s) will be simple yet clean probably painted/molded top for sub baffle sorta old school prefab JL fiberglass tub style.But what i was hoping for was a good tuning hz to go with that will be pretty versitile on most any music but still go low enough to hair trick.i have heard that sub up port back with about 7-9 in. from the back door will shift the tuning down a few hz so i was thinking tuning the box to 33-34 and maybe it will shift down to 30-31 i think old school was talking about this in a past thread?.also should i go with more than the standard 16" per cube of port area?

ive talked to rusty a few times and gone over everything and he seems to lean towards the xl and i have put a SD 8k on 2 xl18's still pounding hard no problems. as far as build log probably not but if i get enough pic together you never know.we basically just started got body work and paint still got some work left on it the boss got a deal on the paint so of course it needs some touch up so its going back.Quad alts were being boxed up when i called iraggi today. still gotta go down to the bank and send payment to SD for the amp and of course that will take a while to show up.Batts are here and we have 8 bulk packs of mat.jsut gotta get to work on it.Anybody got all 24's that will fit going all white and black including interior if i can talk the boss into it. as far as number of subs the price add up quick and seeing as how its already adding up real quick,and as right now he is about 80 percent not gonna wall it so im limited as far as space sub up port back

well that we do we have been carrying DC since the end of last year and have done a few SD amps and we are looking to let the general public in the area what "no name" brands can do instead of saying "trust me its louder than a JL" the hioghs will probably diamond amps and componets which we also carry.