AUDIOADDICT02

I would imagine you'd have to disconnect the factory alarm & put an aftermarket one. Also, from my experience, if the car has a transponder chip, you might have to get an immobilizer over-ride system.

If they do blow, I'll just look into getting them rebuilt with a bigger motor or something. However, I did get a demo a few years ago, from the manager at advanced car stereo running 4 of these 12's & it pounded, but it sounded like they could be lower & louder, maybe it was just the way his box was built. That's what really sold me on them, I could eventually recone them to FI's & no one would notice!lol I wish, they won't be playing for quite a while, my truck needs a bit of work before I get the system fully built.(will eventually be a blowthru) lol. If I could get even ONE of those for the price I got both of these for I would've had one!

From what I heard, they're called "Z edition" subs, I don't know the main manufacturer, but this local audio shop used to sell them & are now discontinued. They weigh 22lbs. & are supposedly 800wrms.

So I just picked up a pair of kinda off-brand 15's for a deal I just couldn't pass up! They seem pretty beastly, but idk, what do you guys think?

Thanks for spreading the word man! Btw, johnny, the black is looking sick as it is, but imo those rims would stand out far more if you color match the rim with the car's color.

Not quite, I'm trying to get a good full-range signal to the mids & highs amp so I could get that crisp sound(4 ch. rf amp). Right now it sounds real muffled even when the hpf is all the way up. I read somewhere that the bose amp treats the rear speakers as mids with no treble, that's why I wanted to tap into the wires getting the signal from the hu itself, but I don't know which wire color does what. I don't want to rip the center console out & not be able to fix anything.

Didn't know about that, but I'll look into that a bit more.

haha. Damn, prefabs! Cool man, you got my # so hmu anytime man!

I can hook you up with paint man, you could do shiny black & I'll also buff your car & bring the shine back to your paint!

Ok, I'm hoping somebody can help me out here. My uncle has a 2010 Avalanche with the bose system & doesn't want to change the factory hu. He has an aftermarket system in it with hi-lows, but he's getting a real muffled sound even with the hp freq at it's highest. According to my research, the factory bose system treats the rear speakers as mids with no treble. So my question is: Does anyone know or know of a diagram that shows the hu wire colors going into the amp from the hu so that I can hook up the hi-lows from the hu itself? I can't seem to find anything that specifies that. I would appreciate if you guys can point me in the right direction here. Thanks in advance.

now imagine when i get my 08 sierra denali single cab on 26" ...and in L.A., good luck man!...either way, there's fuckhead thieves everywhere.

*sigh* Mazda/Ford. Sell to buy a more reliable car man.

Yep, I've seen many cars where old equipment has been removed & people are left with holes all over the place so they have to replace/repair panels, headliners, etc.. Try the subs in a ported enclosure next time, I bet you'll be way happier!

I respect that a lot, keeping the car's resale value. I personally hate making holes into cars or cutting into them if not needed, I try to keep them as factory as possible..

'Sup Biff, I'm Marty Mcfly! lmao(sorry, I had to, I love that movie) Anyways, welcome to the forum man! You will learn lots here just by looking through other's builds. Nice system btw, is that a sealed box?

Will do man! Damn, trial & error man, it's how you learn!

Meade.

lol. True, I'll hit up mechman & see what they can do...& for how much!

Ah, I see, thanks man!

True, but the biggest I found was 100 amp, I was thinking more like this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/CHEVY-TRUCK-CKRV-NEW-ALTERNATOR-200A-HIGH-AMP-2005-6-0L-/250883714026?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item3a69d5abea#ht_1257wt_1110

Ok, but do you absolutely need to use the other outputs on the alt if it's a secondary alt? Also, I'm not trying to replace the original alt in my truck, it's only a few days old. yes you need to use all wires for it to charge not unless you get a 1 wire alternator not true trust me, my truck had a si10 alt in it and i upgraded it to the cs130 and pluged up the charging wire and when i turned on my truck it was 12.3 volts even if i was at 2k rpm. i got the red wire from my pigtail and wired it to distribution block constant power and still at 12.3 volts, then i was reading about the alternator voltage regulator needing to get excited before being able to charge so i read on it some more and it said to get a 500ohm resister and put it on the white wire and run it to the ignition and bam i was charging at 14.4. you can also use an idiot light and that will help charge too, mine is GM though so for might be different but could be easy if you read about it. edit:as long as the excite wire and volt sense wire is connected you are good some fords have external regulators so you might just be lucky and plugging in the charging wire is good enough Yep, mine has an external voltage regulator & I have the wiring diagram so it should be easy then.

Doesn't surprise me that you make anything work when it comes to car audio!! Ok, but do you absolutely need to use the other outputs on the alt if it's a secondary alt? Also, I'm not trying to replace the original alt in my truck, it's only a few days old. yes this is possible i am doing this exact thing on my truck i have a '91 c1500 and i am putting a 400a mechman alt on it as a secondary for an 18v system but the new alt is for a new body style truck with the ls based engine call mechman and they can hook you up proper you just need a single one wire turn on lead and you are golden Ok thanks man, really cleared up my confusion there. I'm currently upgrading/improving most parts on this truck to make it as reliable as possible. I'm hoping to get started system wise by the beginning of the year, so stay put!

Ok, but do you absolutely need to use the other outputs on the alt if it's a secondary alt? Also, I'm not trying to replace the original alt in my truck, it's only a few days old.

Thanks? ..btw, I'm in the process of repairing my truck from the first post, so more than likely I will be able to work on your ride during the week since my carburetor ain't coming in 'til Monday.