canderton01

It's most likely slacker that's giving you a loss in sound quality. I've noticed the same thing because I also listen to slacker and I used to listen to pandora. The symptoms you were describing sound identical to mine, mainly I got almost no bass output. But I can stream my itunes library over BT and I have no problems with degradation in quality.

The Power Acoustik mofo's get decently loud for what they are. They don't necessarily sound great doing it but they can get down. iirc, one of twisted's first setups was a mofo 12'' and it wasn't terrible. The trend around here is hate on all the mainstream brands and nuthug all the underground brands (DC, Fi, AQ, etc.) To answer your question OP, I wouldn't say they are terrible. But I personally wouldn't run any PA equipment. And yes there is good mainstream equipment out there.

1 25 sq ft roll should cover you. I did my trunk lid and I still have a good bit left over.

hell yeah good to see someone else on here reppin the Camry haha

Those cheap ebay meters are pretty inaccurate, but it's pretty much the only option unless you want to drop a good amount of coin. Quality SPL meters usually aren't cheap..

Not trying to nuthug, but BL's can take well over 1k as long as you know what you're doing. This vid is of one of my friends from a while back. Dude ran 2 BL 18's on a JBL 6000gti(which is a BEAST of an amp lol). Each sub was seeing well over 3k each.

If you don't care about having fancy looking wire, just go to your local welding supply store. You can get good 0 gauge for cheap. That's what I did when I did the big 3 upgrade, I got 12 ft of 0 gauge for like ~$15. Other than that, KnuKonceptz is some of the best wire you can get for the money. And to answer your question, you will need to buy additional wire to do the big 3. The amp kit only comes with 18ft of power wire which is just long enough to run the length of most cars.

what about a pair of SA-15's?

lol this reminds me of my first wreck, I rear-ended a 1 month old 2009 650i... dude was so pissed nice car btw

I used to use MP3 gain and it worked pretty well. It basically just makes your music quieter to reduce clipping. Audacity could work too.

AudioQue AQ1200 - $250. Many people here including myself run AQ's and they are a proven brand. They also do over rated RMS on good electrical.

tint your windows if they aren't already Rims are the best way to change the look of your ride imo, and if you're wanting to sell it down the road, just keep your stock wheels/tires and put them back on when you're ready to sell and please stay away from those god awful ricer "halo" lights. Those are so played out and look completely retarted on trucks especially.

dude it's really not hard at all, just run the power wire along one side of your car through the firewall to the positive battery terminal, then RCA's from your headunit to the amp on the other side of your car, then ground the amp to the chassis of your car. I run an AQ1200 as well. Hell I'd even make a step by step video showing you how to do everything if you wanted me to. It's a lot better to learn and do things yourself rather than just paying someone to do it for you. EDIT: I noticed nobody has mentioned this yet, and you may not know this but you will also need to purchase an amp installation kit. You'll want to get a 4 gauge kit for your AQ1200. This is the kit I use. You need to stick to reputable brands when buying wire (ie: KnuKonceptz, Tsunami, Kicker, etc.) because cheap kits will not have true gauge wire, just a thick jacket. Wiring is NEVER something to skimp on.

If you've got an iPod touch or an iPhone, there are several tone generator apps out there just fyi.

You've definitely got a nice budget to play around with. I can almost guarantee you will want to upgrade you Bose speakers though. I thought I would be the same way with my JBL speakers in my Camry, but now I'm wanting to upgrade to some Hertz components lol.. but that's an unrelated topic. Also don't forget about wiring. With that kind of setup, you're going to need a good amount of 0 gauge wire. Probably the best place to get wire is KnuKonceptz.com They have great prices and their wire actually contains the rated thickness, not just a thick jacket like a lot of cheaper wire. And as far as amps go, I'd probably run either a DC 5k or a pair of AQ2200's. Just for reference since you are new to this, here is AudioQue's website, and here is DC's. But definitely do some reading up on here before you go out buying thousands of dollars worth of equipment. You don't want to turn your subs into a pair of 40 lb paper weights. EDIT: lol damn I got ninja'd hardcore

That is actually one of the better pre fab boxes I have seen assuming the specs are correct. I think it would work well. If the idea of building a box scares you and you don't have any buddies that'd be willing to help you out, go ahead and get it. But if you want the best box possible for your sub, you're gonna need to go custom. Building a box for a single 10'' really wouldn't be that hard either.

Dude honestly a few hundred watts isn't going to make much of an audible difference. And you mention your sub getting warm after you play at full tilt for awhile, that is normal. Heat is an unavoidable by product of electricity.

AQ's are really efficient and won't rape your electrical unless you run them at like .5 ohm, but I still think they need 14.4 to do rated.

look into Crescendo audio. I know a lot of their amps will do rated at 13.5-13.8 volts instead of 14.4 like a lot of other amps.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oscilloscope Basically tells you when your amp and headunit are clipping so you can properly set your gains. They aren't cheap though, be prepared to drop at least $150-$200 on one. You can use a digital multimeter which is much cheaper to set your gains as well but it won't be nearly as accurate as an oscope. You never want to set the gains by ear or just guess, especially when you're running an expensive sub like a W7. Clipping = toasted subs.

LOL @ almost negative 10k post count

Didn't you just ask this same question in a separate thread yesterday? You are not going to build up enough pressure in your trunk to fuck your subs up. And unless you completely seal your trunk off, your subs will probably sound better facing the rear. I tried firing my sub box into the cabin of my car and it sounded like shit. Basically if you fire it forward, you lose output because a lot is lost to the open trunk space. But if you fire it toward the rear, the bass will build up in the trunk and reflect off the rear of the car into the cabin. I probably just did a terrible job of explaining that but that's how I understand it.

If you want to keep the stock headunit but you want to add subs, all you need is a line-out converter.

No problem man, and you can still try to PM CJ18 or WCA Rusty. If that doesn't work then you could always just call DC directly. Here is their contact info.

lol got ninja'd For amps look back at my previous post. And could you get away with 4 gauge wire? Most likely. Should you upgrade to 0 gauge? Most definitely. You can get good 0 gauge power wire from Knukoneptz and they have very reasonable prices.