JBurt09

Did Scott already have them previously broken in at the factory or are they being broken in as you go, hence are bound to get louder each and every day?

Wow are you really from Brazil?

Yeah if you could I would greatly appreciate it.That would be awesome.Thanks.

Haha no worries.I have an empty D3100 at the shop that is an empty replica that will work fine.I appreciate all the help and feedback.Thanks man.Oh and congratulations on your very own sub.I can't wait to see more videos on those beasts.Best of luck to you with those things.Hopefully they will be just as successful as the BTLs were for you and then some.

What year Tahoe do you have?

The stock battery tray is about that yeah.Either way, it's too small to fit a 3100 and that's what I'm trying to fit in there haha.

Okay so I have a 2003 Chevy Tahoe I'm working on and I'm trying to toss that absolute biggest battery possible underneath the hood.I know Steve and many others have put the XS 3100 underneath the hood of that style vehicle in the factory location and was wondering what all modifications were made to make that happen.There is a small round black box next to the battery tray and it looks like there is about 10.5" x 8" x 8.5".The 3100 is like 13" long.Anyone with any experience on this job?If I could get the man himself to hit up this thread, I know Steve has done this twice and should have it down to a science now.Any feedback is greatly appreciated.

What kind of modifications? I'm trying to get enough current to hang with an AudioQue 2200D (About 2400 watts RMS) and two small amps for mids and highs.

What kind of budget are you working with?

The 3100 will fit in the front factory location of a 2003 Chevy Tahoe correct?If that is the case then we are one battery closer to the 10% and I can process that as soon as ya'll let me know.Thanks.

Whoever told you that wasn't necessarily wrong, but the Ultraflex by WeldingSupply was specifically made for what it's name implies: to be ultra flexible

What is your zip code?

Well Stinger you can easily get for under $150, and I can get you even a lower price if you would like to go that route as I deal Stinger.Kicker and Knu as well.I'm still sticking to my earlier answer that I think weldingsupply would be best performance wise and bang for your buck.

Depends on who you know

^^^^ Best solution right there plain and simple.

Get the Premier.The radio comes supplied with an iPod cable that is compatible to that headunit. And the extra year added to the warranty is well worth the extra money alone.

As Decaf said, Lil Shawty by Zoe.And nahhh haven't had it metered yet but I have been constantly working on it and tweaking things here and there whenever the client gets a chance to get it to me and it has gotten considerably louder since it was first installed. I remember you telling me that last time, and I'll try and get a video of the truck with the 350+ lbs of box and woofers moved all the way to the back if I can muster up the strength haha. As far as noise and rattles, I'm currently dampening the entire roof and am about to foam the hell out of this thing with a ton of Great Stuff Expanding Foam As soon as I can convince the customer that it could be soooo much louder than it already is.I've told him time after time, but I think I'm going to have to get my hands on one and show him what those BLs can really do in that truck and then he'll be all for it.

Thanks for the props man. Of course.I edited my original post and put the link to the build log in there.Thanks.

2003 Cadillac Escalade ESV with 2 Fi BL 18s in the back in a 14.63 cu ft box tuned to 33 Hz.Click the videos to open them in Youtube and watch them bigger and with more detail.Shoot me a comment or let me know what you think.Thanks. You can check it out more at the build thread here: 2 Fi BL 18s in a 2003 Escalade ESV name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src=" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="640" height="505"></embed></object>"> name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src=" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="640" height="505"></embed></object>" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" width="425" height="350"> name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src=" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="640" height="505"></embed></object>"> name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src=" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="640" height="505"></embed></object>" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" width="425" height="350">

Not sure.I guess I could see how it could possibly pose a problem but it didn't in this install.And the head unit itself is about 1 1/2 feet away from the amp separated by multiple layer of plastic.

Thanks I appreciate it man.

AS FAR AS THE LUBRIDERM GOES: :01nocomment8so: Haha just kidding.I meant to ask him about that when he came to pick the truck up, but it was early in the morning when he came and I was still half-asleep.I could only imagine the the excuses.Haha.

Not to run the amp that close to what?Power wire?Speaker wire?

Those RCA's are only 3 feet long.They run right out of the F90's front pre-outs, back away from the power wire, and back into the amp.Don't worry there was 0 noise. Thanks.I wanted to do it different and it worked out perfect.

Thanks.No subs.....yet The customer is out of state at college and I'll be putting the bass in when he gets back in town. Sounds extremely nice.Great high fidelity sound reproduction throughout and especially nice mid-bass response.