Carnag3

I would be scared to drill holes in a brand new sub, especially with how much we all love holes in our surrounds. Now that I see the pic, thats how my BTLs came out of the box, just carefully push down through it from the top with a nail. I wouldnt do it from underneath and risk pushing up some of the adhesive material.

"In Before The Lock": An abbreviation posted to a thread on a web-based forum when the poster knows that any rational debate has long since been abandoned, and will shortly be locked by the forum administrator.

Didn't know it was so secret. More than a Btl?

How much did those set you back?

Step one: Use use some duct tape on the back of the board to strenthen it and repair the flaking parts Step two: Goto a fabric store or walmart and get some fabric and 3m spray adhesive Step three: Apply

Damn, what a deal, I paid 399 for my mechman

this.

I'm going

^This. Buy me some too

Looks really good in their. Pics of full car?

Thats alot of money to spend on audio equip just to gain a cup holder

^ Thats hot, but wouldn't work on a low ride.

And I thought chryslers fell apart as it is lol...good stuff

I did notice that , and the bottom is the part that looks poopy, if it were me, I would have taken the actually guage's out of that rectangular panel and mounted them in the same spot, so it would match the styling of the factory cluster. Everything else is perfect tho.

Pretty cool besides the hole cut in the new dash for crooked guages

^Exactly.

Each bulb runs off of one ballast. Don't forget, the higher the Kelvin rating, the LOWER the output. Most car manufacturers use 4300k as it is the brightest on the spectrum. I run a 4300k setup in my civic and they are ridiculously bright.

^ Thanks alot! I jumped the remote wire with a acc/switched 12v source and the amp turned right on! Now it sounds like the problem is with my cheap kenwood cd player no supplying the 12v remote source. I plan on upgrading to a indash tv soon anyway. I'll run a new wire to the amp from a switched source to the amp and then use that chart. Only thing im not sure of is what setting on the voltmeter do I turn it to? I have this voltmeter

If for some reason my remote wire coming from the HU is not giving enough voltage, could I use a acc switched 12v source? I would love to set my gain with an o-scope, but I don't have access to one. What would be a suggested level to set it at safely until I can properly set it.

I set the gain by ear, just under 3/4. I doubt its an RCA problem, it would still power up. Its very odd that it all the sudden took a shit, I've heard that this amp is a reliable beast, but maybe its a sign that my alt is getting weak or I just need to upgrade to a H/O. Has anyone had any luck with returns to sonicelectonix as far as amps go? I bought this amp new less than a month ago and would hate to have just thrown away 600$ Also, does rockford repair amps for a reasonable price if not free under warranty?

I've been running my setup for about a month with no problems till yesterday when the amp turned off during play. I felt the heatsink and it felt pretty warm. Im worried that it overheated, but in that case shouldnt a thermal light or protection light kick on to save the amp? I checked all the fuses and no problem there. Got out the DMM and check the power supply at the fuse and its getting proper voltage. Checked the remote wire and it reads .06 (seems very low, but not sure what its supposed to be). After a few hours I removed the power wire to the amp and re-connected it and then the amp worked again. Later that day on the way home, it went out again, and it won't turn on. Is the amp done for good, after 3 weeks of normal use? I have the gain set at 3/4 and am running all 1/0 gauge, a powermaster D5100R as a secondary battery in the trunk, big 3, and stock alt. I never turn the HU up more than 3/4 volume either. Any help on this would be appreciated.