Cashdollar2009

Tech support guy... follow link. Got a little lol out of me.

Listen Here^^^^^^^^^^^^ Just spend a few more bucks and get something nice. http://www.audioque.com/aq/?page_id=72 Order dual voice coils: 2-ohms. Read up on wiring configurations. Find an amplifier that is 1-ohm stable. Probably run it through us though first...

I will be having a recone headed my way here soon. My question being, does it usually come with some sort of kit? (such as glue, applicator, activator) I understand that it would be ideal with some CA glue and applicator. Or.. am going to have to search online and order something else? I have searched around and supposedly I can get the right glue from any hobby shop. Anyone have any other favorite types of adhesives? (various epoxy's, gorilla glue, etc) Thanks ahead!

Plan a trip to Lowes. I'll just edit this one for your reply. Patience and a steady hand. I soldered 22 2/0 terminals the other day. You can get it on nice and even too.

Generally that type of insulation gets real weak and can only handle so much heat transfer. Good 'ole soldering iron did the trick for me.

If I recall Correctly. And the post above, that's probably just a later model comp vr.

In theory, double the cone area off of the same power with the same enclosure specs. in a perfect world would be 3db, or audibly twice as loud. If you doubled cone area as well as power, again that would be 3db on top of that. Again, this is under ideal circumstances in a perfect world. Of course, we are not quite in that, so this is only a theoretical gross estimate.

I like this! I love your work too! I'm tuned in fo sho.

Torres calc. Under the box building section, it is pinned. Use it to your advantage! Edit: Use his link 5 posts up.

lol.... Anyways, set your gains with a dmm. Us poor people can't afford or even sometimes get access to an o-scope.

Front Batt--Fuse-------------Fuse--Rear Batt--Fuse-----Distro Block<=======Fuses on each==Amps Make sense? lol

Whichever uses the least wiring I suppose.

Truf... Unless you buy it, get your actual ohm load to 1-ohm exactly, and clamp it yourself, you can't just plug numbers into a formula...

Front Batt---Fuse------------------Fuse---Rear Batt---Fuse---------Amp. You are going to need to ground the hc600 somewhere in the trunk if you plan to just drop it in and run one positive wire to the back. Ground both your hc600 and amplifier in the same spot. Remember to have your grounds attached to the bare steel. (Grind off all paint with wire brush/grinder/etc until you see shiny steel where you are attaching it.) Good Luck!

DC Audio ftw. If you only plan on 1200, stick with the level 4. It will do you nicely.

Shave the wire, and buy a battery. Your amp is only rated 2500rms correct? You need power to make power. If you are running stock electrical on 2500 watts, you might as well use 6 gauge. Seriously, shaving the wire, and you notice no difference with that amplfier.

I can understand the whole being on a budget and working with what you got concept. Do you have at least a secondary battery? In all honesty, it doesn't matter what size wire you use unless you have the power to pump through it. Makes sense eh? Anyways, no, it would not defeat the purpose of using 1/0. Think of it this way, it is that much less resistance between the battery source and the amplifier. Worst case, trim down the strands until it just fits snug. Save up for a new amplifier, find a kid in your neighborhood and pawn the amp you are running now to him for $50.00 over retail. Problem solved.

What he said... Look around for some of the higher power builds on here using 10"s or 12"s. In most cases when adding power, they compensate with a smaller box to keep the cone under control. Honestly, if you aren't exactly sure as t what you're doing, you would probably be better off just buying a level 4. A lot of times you can pick up a barely used one off of here for the cheap.

It's just another variation of "porting/venting you enclosure. Other than the fact that it is much easier to play around with tuning as you can readjust the length over and over again, where as a wooden port, you build it, and it's done. Many spl boxes use aero ports, many daily boxes use vented. It's all personal preference in my opinion...

Lol, you never know.

1. Spoiler was a mistake and just want a replacement lid as opposed to dealing with rusting out and filling holes all of the time. I have heard of people picking up bare lids for $75.00 at a scrapyard... I mean "salvage" yard. So i've been on the lookout. As for the "looking like" 3k, after box rise and everything I couldn't give you a spot on figure of the resistance, especially since i'm working with a soldered up broken set of these... http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/75456-wtf-happened-to-my-tinsel-lead/page__p__1042688__fromsearch__1entry1042688

He's just another little internet troll. It's not hard to be big behind a keyboard. He's probably just one of those little brats that his parents let him go around and mouth off to everyone. Whatever...

DC Audio Level 4xl Crescendo 3kwp Two Deka 9a31's Two runs of 2/0 Welding Cable to the rear. Big Three in 2/0 Stock alt. Box Specs. 3.8ft^3 tuned to 34hz Spoiler: Mistake when I was 16 and bought the car.(Fast and Furious!) Looks a lot less choppy on youtube at 480p.

Sarcasm? No screenshot, but did a 142 legal on the dash off of a sine sweep. Had time for two runs since I got there late. Off of a quick ear tune and a 100-20hz sweep the girl running the meter said I peaked at 40hz. Still have some playing around to do since I put it together in two days! Girlfriend wanted to help out so I let her do me a little artwork.

Just one xl sealed off from the trunk. I'm crazy for running it off of 3k. But she gets the job done. I hoping to upgrade to an 18" level 4xl when I get my next vehicle (an suv.)