Cashdollar2009

On the ear-o-meter, i'm probably only sitting around a 141 at 45Hz right now. I would like to do upper 40's on music when it's all said and done. I'm not sure how that's going to work if I can't keep the doors on. Haha. I just thought it was impressive how it was flexing this much under the given circumstances.

Just going to throw this out there too, i'm not sure how the car is going to handle either two 15" XL's or a single 18" T.S.N.S. daily on my DC 5k.

Making sure my friends Ap1500d is working properly. Box is 3.0ft^3 tuned to 35Hz. Sundown Audio SA-15 ran at 2-ohms probably seeing around 500wrms on stock electrical after seeing rise, efficiency, etc. Box was built sup up port back for a friend's Ford Escape, he offered me a great deal to buy it back And cannot fit the box properly in my Aveo trunk so I am running a terrible trunk orientation. Anyways, I was impressed for what it is. Enjoy! And yes, this is 25Hz in a 35Hz tuned box. I built it, and I am surprised that the sub still isn't unloading down at 25Hz. Probably because i'm almost just running the rms.

nice cant wait to hear it again. Jealous again Damn it man why do I gotta live so damn far away??? I want to hear it too!!! might be more jealous when i let you know what i got on the DC amp pre order sale. If you pre-ordered a 5k then PM me. I already have one sitting at home but i'm curious. Lol

When ordering the N2 select the Dual 2 option. This will allow you to wire it to 1-ohm nominal. Don't try to run your amplifier at. 5-ohms. Yes the amplifier is capable with proper electrical, but from your questions, you will be more than happy leaving it at 1-ohm. When the sub comes in there will be two + and two -. Wire the + to the other + and then to the amplifier's +. Next wire the - to the other - and then to the - on the amplifer. You will then be good to go with a 1-ohm nominal load on your amplier.

In a hurry but to address your first question I would still arrange the enclosure with a sub-back port-back orientation as the sub would be loading off of the hatch then sending the output forward. (stated vaguely) This is why traditionally sub-back port-back in a trunk car yields better results. (Unless you were willing to do both firing forward and sealing everything off into the cabin) The vacant stock subwoofer location would just allow more sound pressure into the cabin. Do the rear seats fold down? Also, what amplifier are you planning to use? You will be running close to 800wrms over rated power if you are getting true output from your amplifier, you have to remember that once you start running more than the driver's rated rms you also have to consider making enclosure adjustments so that the subwoofer does not experience unloading issues. (typically more power = smaller box) You'll get more insight from the other members but i'm on mobile now on my way to class so hopefully this helps you out!

I've been listening to him for a good minute. His Welcome To The Show is what really caught me. Liked, Commented, and Subbed.

Honestly, if you can scrape up the cash for a D3100, I would definitely suggest getting it over the D3400. It should be more than able to support whichever of those amplifiers you choose from. The D3100 would still run you less money than an alternator that would be cost efficient and valuable in your case. And as I stated before, as the system works in unison, the alternator DOES charge your batteries WHILE you are playing, as long as the vehicle is running. So even as you are playing and you see voltage drop, the alternator will be constantly working to recharge the current that has been drawn from them by your amplifier. Long story short, a second battery in the rear will allow you to demo while driving or remaining at idle. (Sitting in place.)This is assuming that you are running a large enough secondary battery. The only real suggestion with this is that if you notice your alternator struggling to charge the cell over time, just hook up a battery charger every once in a while. 2000wrms isn't an insane amount of power to worry about, especially after you factor in rise and efficiency. You should be just fine.

Everything works in unison as a single system. (Generally speaking.) The amplifier draws current from the batteries, as this happens the alternator recharges the batteries. This is all generically explained for a little bit of understanding. In your situation i'd do The Big 3 then look into a secondary battery for your trunk/cargo area. Why not go with the XS D3100? It will still cost you less than an efficient alternator would. If you still see the need for a beefier electrical with the second battery, THEN look into a third battery or the high output alternator. I am sure you will want to demo while sitting still. Alternators reach their maximum output at a higher rate of rpms, (You would have to sit and keep the engine revved.) this is where a battery would better suit your application since you would not be driving. You will get a few different opinions on this. And that is exactly what they are, opinions. But from my experience, it would only make sense to get a large secondary battery in this situation to fit your needs.

I've always heard and gone by the "generic" 14^2in to 16^2in per ft^3. 10ft^3 seems HUGE too unless you are running low power. What amplifier are you planning to run?

His name's been thrown around here a few times. Personally, I have all of his mixtapes on my flash drive and have gotten into him quite a bit. Long before he started blowing up. This song though, I would love to see a whole album from him done like this. I already have the song on my flash drive and was playing it today. Blue Slide Park is already looking good two singles in.

I know my XL had felt pads. Felt will work fine for a while. Bit once your tinsels start slapping it's only a matter of time before you need to start considering a recone and figuring out what you were doing wrong... What kind of subwoofer? P.S. I restitched mine the best I could to the spiders then put a coat of super glue over them and the stitch point and let the glue cure. Worked great for the longest time-

Subscribe to Mrbasshead411: Check DC Facebook Page: Checked a long time ago.

Uhhh.... Trunk?

Maybe if you were looking to run around 30,000wrms. Looks like space would be a HUGE issue. Those are some sweet drawings though.

I'll give you a hairtrick. Looks good man. It may not be blowing hair everywhere but you definitely are moving hair around. "Mild hairtrick." Keep up the good work, I'd like to see four of them in there!

Thank you very much man. Haha and I know, his video's are always entertaining too!

I know it's a popular song. Maybe a noon bump and i'll just let it ride for the rest of the day. I may have posted too early. lol But if anyone knows the answer would be appreciated so I can obtain it before i'm computer-less for a while. Thanks.

This is the correct response to this question. Good luck.

I remember someone asking and getting answered on this song way back, but still can't remember the damn name. Song @4:03. Thanks guys.

Interlude minus Andre 3000. (C'mon Andre 3000, you could have done a lot better, or avoided the track with the lyrical tyrant) And Outro minus the whiny retard voice dude, but Bun B, Nas, and Busta Rhymes killed it. At least Busta Rhymes killed it, then again, he's been good. Neither were mentioned. Whenever I get the time i'm gonna rip Tech N9ne's verse out of Interlude and put in on Outro on top of ripping whiny man out. I'll upload it for you guys.

I don't think it likes over 15v

Bullz is some really cheap stuff. Wire is one thing that you REALLY get what you pay for. IIRC that stuff sells for the price of 4 gauge. I'd do multiple grounds with that stuff if you are using the Raptor for power. (Raptor isn't a whole lot better than Bullz, but it is better nonetheless.)

Some people fuse right before the secondary battery too. I do not. Fusing right after the starting battery should work out just fine. Diagram looks fine man. What brand wire are you looking to run?

I'll play.