kmalinich

Same idea. just upgrade the wiring. And next time, make your own thread. don't hijack. You aren't a terrorist.

Well, I'm gonna ask you the same thing I ask everyone ... What are you looking for in this setup? SPL? SQ? Or somewhere in the middle? I know you have 5.25s up front and 6x9s in the back.... only because I have the same exact car.... And of course.. we're gonna need a budget. Welcome to the forums Trever... Edit: Oh, and this is in the wrong section. Can a mod move this to General Audio? Thanks.

..its.. not.. music... it's a program you run on your computer.. it sets up the 360...how the hell did you even start to think that would work? do you know what the 360.2 does? what it's used for?

Definitely you. What reason was it that you couldn't research products online and make your own informed decision? I would understand if you wanted advice on more advanced topics like batteries or box design or even ohm loads, but you can easily do your own research on an amplifier.

If you're a gearhead as well as a basshead.. not that hard. but you do have to take your belt off the motor and undo the belt tensioner ... bolt on the new alt and then put the belt back on and retension the belt... and Iraggi is the best IMO but I think DC power's alts are a little cheaper. look for at least 140 amps at idle and you'll be all set.... and that walmart wiring.. walmart 4ga=Knu 8ga. so not only is it smaller, it's not as conductive. just go with all 1\0 from http://www.knukonceptz.com/ and a ground in the trunk.. just look for a solid bolt back there.. try to grind away some paint for a good metal-metal connection.... and I was talking about the Big 3 when i said run the ground to the shock tower... I meant when you do the frame-battery ground, run the wire from your shock tower under the hood to your battery. This is a pic of mine... it's run to the shock tower, just loose.. before I zip tied it down. It is underneath one of the bolts for the shock tower and you need a new battery up front .. for sure like 100% sure... and one in the back.. you could get away with not having one in the back but you might have some performance issues if you play for longer than 2-3 songs in a row at full volume. I'd recommend the XS power batteries... like a d3400 up front.. and whatever the most you can afford in the back. make sure it fits in your car though. with all that you'll be super rock solid.

Just ... don't get the JL. But really, it's still your decision. If you choose to get it, and it doesn't work out like you wanted to, don't get on here and complain.

honda does have better resale value too...IIRC

i do what i do

port area is the length times the width of the opening of the port... just to let you know... the length wouldn't change it.

yeah, it gets 30 with your dad driving it.. lemme tell you how this is gonna go. you get it, beat on it, that drops it to like 23-25mpg 200+lbs of beat ... 21-23mpg beat on it a little more because it's slower due to weight - 19-21mpg idle all the time demoing - 17-19 mpg lololol, probably not that big of a drop, but you see where i'm going with it.

lmaoinorite.

I'd hit you with a JL sub if I could. "Does it hit very hard??" If I had a penny for every time I've seen that on here in regards to a woofer.. I'd have enough to buy Steve's truck. And then some. It's all in the box. You could have a shitty box for a W7 12 and a great box for a walmart Dual 12 and the dual would probably out perfrom the JL. PM Forum Asshole about designs. He'll make you one.. for a few bucks

ba dum dun tshhhhhh

fix the hoe. you were about to wall it, right? that honda is gonna be harder to put beat in than an SUV. that's common sense.

But isn't your wife there? you gotta convince her to make the first move, then you're home free..... and how come no pics of wifey? lol jk bro

once you get it wired.. measure the ohm rating at the terminals of the amp. or you can do it mathematically... or the12volt has some really good diagrams. look for a diagram for 2 DVC 4 ohm subs.

can't go wrong. that 1500 will do more than rated and at a lower ohm rating and do it for 10 years straight. if the military had a sonic weapon.. i'd be powered by a sundown amp. if that tells you anything.

what's the port area?

i think the back of the port is wayyy too close to the wall. the port area gets smaller. should never do that. that sucks a lot, because you already built it... MY general rule of thumb is you should keep the port area constant always, and the port should end no less than the square of the port area away from a side in the box.

yeah.. 400-500 might get you something decent but nothing crazy. Can't ever go wrong with Sundown though... really great stuff, and superb customer service

I hope to god you have some beat in your car to bass away the stress. it'll turn around man

If the subs are indeed dual 4, you can series the voice coils to 8 ohm, and then parallel the speaker leads to 4 ohms. Unless the amp is 1 ohm stable, then parallel everything ... which would give you a 1 ohm load. I can't find the specs for that amp online, though. I'd stick with 4 ohms until you know for sure.

google or a hammer those 2 ideas usually work in 99% of situations

just random .. for an example

Right.. but the run from the alt to the front battery is like.. what, 3 feet? 3 feet of 1\0 will not melt off of the current from the alt. even if it's a 300amp alt, it's only gonna put 300 amps through the 3 feet of wire if he's slammin full out with super dead batteries and he's doin 5000 RPM. Common.....sense....people....come on