Decaf

clip is between handle and plastic washer. u take a flat head to separate handle and washer, push the panel in to create room at the crank spot with ur hand, and i use a headunit "key" bent slightly to push one side of the clip off. its enough that the handle comes off yet the clip stays attached to handle so u dont loose it currently my saturn has all panels off by that method while i deaden everything

62 is clip free... so volume 0-62 is safe you want the most amount off preout voltage so you turn the gain on amp up the least, this results in the least amount of thd i see i see, but the bass amp read distortion at 57, everything was flat, my question is, you know the sub level how it goes from -24 to +6, i had it at 0. that to me seems to be almost all the way up... should it have been at 0 or at like -24?? how is that possible? with gain all the way down play track 1+2 thru amp speaker terminals til headunit clips, which will be volume 62. then go to track 3/4 or 5/6, volume at 62, don't move test probes and turn up gain til it distorts. which means the bass amp cannot distort at 57, its impossible because when you turned the gain up the headunit volume should have been 62. sub level should be at 0

62 is clip free... so volume 0-62 is safe you want the most amount off preout voltage so you turn the gain on amp up the least, this results in the least amount of thd

what dont you get bro? the bass amp cannot distort at 57 because the volume should be at 62 when setting sub amp gain, therefor it CANNOT clip/distort at 57 when setting it up correctly (unless you had a 8v preout or something crazy like that)

That would be great if he was talking about the quality of the actual cd's....but he's talking about the quality in sound of the original cd as compared to burned copy of said cd. He's noticing a huge difference in SQ between those two. still analogous point was you shouldn't be noticing that much of a difference, a setting on the comp might be throwing it off... volume check maybe whats the headunit btw?

get a good ear most songs don't "sound good" because of how it was made/recorded, not the quality/kbps. aside from frequencies above say, 8000hz, you shouldn't be able to tell the difference from 320kbps to cd quality. most cant tell 256kbps from cd quality. if the song doesn't have a ton of data it doesn't benefit to have more information per second. now an orchestra playing Schoenberg could definitely benefit from the highest quality, but you arent trying to drown out the violin with a bass drum like we drown out lyrics from rap

https://www.onlinefilefolder.com/1sQHliMu6YbY7V

thats a good reason to use the amp to test the headunit instead of a single rca on the top of the unit

its there... not terrible but its maxed out and then some "stuntn like a fool/in a nutsheel/oh yeah" are examples of a pretty bad clipped kick drum

only kept track 2 with jeezy

you are not getting it your headunit should be used with settings flat, sub level at 0, volume 62 full tilt, not 54, not 57. 62. then set your gains on 4channel (they will be lower than when using volume 54, 57 because you are getting more voltage thru the rcas, which is what you want. gain as low as possible so the amp is amplifying the least) -10db will make you mids/highs rather loud, try -5db as it will be quieter and the gains will be set lower

11" cutout diameter 12.625" outer diameter 13" flush mount diameter thats what ive used for standard 12spoke (dc, fi, old re, ia, sa)

This... Oh was I so effen fustrated when I got my first Ipod until I done the above.. I guess I was just use to putting songs in a folder. btw: if you go thru the zips before adding them to playlists and pick out the songs you know or like better will save you a lot of space!! I roll around with all the zips on my flashdrive, but I have all the better songs imo in its own playlist for demos and what not. thats exactly what i do. everything is on a 16g sd card and i use a thumbdrive for my "goto" songs

itunes will reorganize the zips... add the zips as playlists so u dont have to hunt for songs, you just have to know which zips they are in

ive used the same one for... almost 4 years iirc. used in three different vehicles as with any circuit board, vibration will ruin it overtime so the louder the vehicle the more likely the lifespan will be diminished. i also havent needed to calibrate, read same as dmm out of the package

That is what I was looking for, my thoughts exactly. Thanks Decaf and you look good in gold btw!!! i havent used fuses to amps in a long time. sank u sir if you flip and roll your batts will be the least of your concern, lol im more worried about frayed wires shorting at the input terminals then somehow within the length of the wire

read below this I completely agree. I check out every song in WMP scope before I play it in my car. I also check the amplitude of it's bass in Audacity to ensure that it doesn't exceed the level I have my system tuned for. That doesn't show anything. The 'show clipping' feature in Audacity only shows when the track exceeds 0dB, it doesn't tell you if it's bass or not. It could be 32Hz, or it could be 18000Hz. The only real way you can tell is if you 'watch' the track and visibly inspect it for clipping. This can be accomplished by using the scope visualization in WMP, or by playing it in audacity when zoomed into the track's waveform, with the show clipping feature turned off so you can actually see it. this nope. gucci and waka have some of the worst songs

ok so then it just depends on how bad and much it clips? also if u see 1 or 2 small flat lines then would it be ok to play on a higher volume then? too many variables. IMO no song should be played full tilt without being aware of what you are playing

i would NOT fuse that wire. power wire between rear batts and front batts/alt, yes, in case there's a cut in the wire. it can take almost double the amp rating to pop the fuse in a short circuit situation tho so even for its intended use its rather worthless

every artist

Gucci Mane, Waka Flocka, Ice Burgandy – I Don’t See You (Official)

sold

this has been explained numerous times, twice by Tony iirc before the unit was released to the public and by me earlier in the thread 40hz and 1000hz are the fundamental frequencies the unit detects, anything besides those frequencies will light up the dd-1 and it takes 1% distortion or more for the LED to become fully bright. this is why he repeatedly says the DD-1 does not detect clipping, it detects TOTAL HARMONIC DISTORTION. THD = sum of harmonic power/fundamental power in this picture you would add up all the signal db coming from frequencies above 40hz (high order harmonics) and divide it by the fundamental freuquency 40hz signal db to determine THD. i would guess pictured is between 5-15% distortion without measuring

if the dd tweet was 4ohm, when u connect an 8ohm speaker the crossover point will drop by one octave. in other words, 4ohm@2500hz is 8ohm@1250hz

funny video i will use my visual example for those who need it. 40hz clipped sine wave with harmonic distortion the DD-1 will turn red whenever there is a frequency besides 40hz and 1000hz. this is because of harmonic distortion, which occurs from clipping the dd-1 allows 1% thd (total harmonic distortion) this is why it isnt an on/off red light, it varies in light as the power increases in higher order harmonics. i used to have a friend that would wire 30+ LEDS to the speaker leads and toss them throughout the car...