bassl0va

Cool, your welcome

Not unless you are powering a PC with it . I think that they work at their best when all the rails have a load on them, but if you have a PSU with enough headroom, it really shouldn't matter. So just use the 12v

WTF? Piss off if you will just be spamming. 5v is for USB and various circuits with 5v ICs. Including circuits in CD drives and HDDs. 3.3v is for the CPU (I think?) and various other low voltage circuits like that. -12v, heck knows, probably for audio circuits, like a amp will have identical positive and negative rails. -5v, same reason as the -12v I guess. 12v is for the pretty much everything that needs it, graphics cards, CD drives, HDDs, various 12v circuits, fans. ^don't take any of my stuff as fact. Haha May I suggest these links: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Power_supply_unit_(computer) http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Power_supply_rail

uhh...just use the freaking yellow wires. +12v. nuff said. If the available output is more when the other rail is under load, then it kinda does matter. Also, most of the time a person will buy a 200watt PSU for their 200watt amp. Most of the time the 200watts that the PSU can do is the total for all the rails. If you haven't noticed, the 3.3v and 5v rails can supply just as much current as the 12v rails, making the PSU even less appropriate for the said amp.

Just look at the specs for the +12v rails. Make sure if it has multiple ones that the identical ones add up to 8A or greater, as it is not really ideal to link two unmatched rails together. I'd say 8A minimum, you should be able to easily get more than that. Don't worry about watts, they are normally rated for the total of the PSU, not the 12v rail output. I said 8A because that's about 20watts per channel minus efficiency.

Erk, you should be able to get something for that much, if you want a real nice piece of equipment for that much you might have to go secondhand. So that is only 20 watts RMS or so per channel, that could work with maybe 8A or so. You could probably sell the HU and buy a nice home audio amp. It doesn't have to be anything new, just search for some Technics or something older like that on eBay.

Or actively cross them. Infact, that's probably his best choice in this case.

Is that crossover matched to the speakers you are using? And are the speakers matched to each other? Trying to mask a badly designed speaker's sound by playing ti loud doesn't work too well . How much power do you need? And what's your budget? (we don't know how rich you are )

What is with you people and using PSUs with 3.3v, 5v and -12v rails? You only need one with 12v rails, not the extra ones that would be used in a computer. Besides, I think that the PSUs work at their best when the either the 3.3v or 5v rails have a load on then, I can't remember which one it is. A PSU with only 12v outputs may cost more, but it will work better, and won't be as much of a pain to wire up.

That may not even be able to power a HU properly. You'd probably want 6A for the HU to run it with enough headroom. The PSU I've been using on the 50.4 has dual 35A (or 30A) rails. So you would definitely not be able to run a amp off that PSU.

How many amps can this power supply...um...supply?

What are these said crossovers? They will sound like rubbish if your crossovers aren't good. Crossovers can make or break speakers. What enclosure specs were you thinking of using? As Iceman said up there ^ what speakers?

You could always get a ThermalTake PSU. They have single 12v channel models and don't cost all too much for such a great product. I have powered a class A/B 50.4 bridged into 2 4 ohm channels, the voltage barely dipped below 12v. The lowest I saw was 11.8v I think, that would certainly be enough for a HU.

Just get a Stetsom 7K2 and be done with it. Also, if you were going to run the subs off one amp you'd need to go for dual 1 ohm coils. For two amps, dual 2 coils will be fine. EDIT: you don't run 7K to one sub, you run 7K to both. And you do it because the subs can take it, and because it makes the people here get excited. Haha

Lol, ok then. I like the pun. X2

I probably don't remember them because when I read through a thread I go 'damn, hdorre beat me to it again!' lol. Haha, true, paypal me $5 if I find a post that isn't helping someone? :-P

You accusing me? Haha. It's still funny how you have 1,000 more posts than me and we joined only 2 days apart. No, I wasn't accusing you. I was just stating that I get my posts by actually helping people. I don't mean that you don't. Haha. Its hard to infer what I meant over a computer I didn't even notice that were only 2 days apart. Lol. That's crazy. How come I never see half the posts you make? What section are they most in? I know what you mean though, it's hard to get the way you say something across. In those 2 extra days you made 1,000 posts? Haha BTW, who were the last two posts helping ^jk of course

You accusing me? Haha. It's still funny how you have 1,000 more posts than me and we joined only 2 days apart.

How many ohms are the coils going to be? Running one amp should be easier to set up, and it won't suck as much current from your electrical.

I just realized, you post far too much. You post whore you . all good. OP, you need to post far more info, you don't even say what size L5, as I believe each size has a different power rating.

4 12"s should have more motor force than 2 15"s, unless you were comparing 4 lvl 5 12"s to 2 Sony xplod 15"s. Haha Go for the 4 12"s tune to 35hz, make sure the port has sufficient area and is squarer (like hdorre said) and make sure that the port is it's height (at least) away from the back inside wall of the vehicle. EDIT: about the RE subs, they are made in china or something now, so they aren't as good as they use to be. The MX, MT and XXX are still the same as they use to be I think though. So you'd be safe with them.

Fused your alt wire? That isn't really necessary, just make sure that the wire to the back where your amps are is fused. And tuck the alt wire somewhere safe where it won't touch anything hot and where it can't rub on anything moving.

try around 11-12 cu ft for 2 18s. hmm, 13 after displacement minimum I reckon. haha, I know.

2 18"s=bigger still wall wall? yes, that is the dumbest term ever

Like, 14.