fecupe2001

70$ kodak camera, pick the sound great imo!!

All we need to know, is what the thunder sound is haha

Glad i could help

thanks man, i´m also posting a NICE topic about spl gains in a few minutes, should be very helpful! 100% RIGHT MY FRIEND!!! i forgot to mention that, you have to play the sweeps at the same volume on the knob, nice input!!!!

Dude that´s one hell of a good score, congrats!!! What´s the size of that box? got to love blazers!! P.S: Fucking annoying the disc skipping! hahaha

Well, it´s a short video on how to find it, it helps to the guys that want to build a burp box.

What about sub up/port side? should get a nice distance from the side wall of the car since you have more lenght from side to side than seat to trunk

That´s why SPL it´s so much fun, trial and error it´s the key, what works for my application might suck on yours

Well, it´s like that man, i honestly tried some 45´s in a single 15" box and score dropped 0.4 dbs, so you never know!

You can always use pvc to round the corners

you can always sell it, it´s still sealed in the box right? post it on ebay or something and try to get something else.

Hey man, you should have asked that or reaserching on the forum before buying it, there´s a few topics about the HFI line, i had the HFI2500D and it was no near as loud as the bxi2610D wich isn´t even that loud, that HFI1000D it´s around 700 watts maybe?

But it´s way louder now?

Ok let´s see, you have a 1000 watts @ 1 ohm and 14.4 volts for a 500 watts sub, your voltage is dropping to around 12v because you have the stock ALT, you are seeing now 750 watts for example, your 10 hz frequency with a 60 hz tuned box is having a .5 rise as you said, now you have 600 watts, so, you have around 60% of the amp capacity if you are lucky, then, you go with another example, the AQ2200.1, you are only seeing around 1200 watts including impedance rise below tuning frequency and something like 1000 watts on the kind of music you mostly play for a sub with a STIFF as hell suspension and 3" coil wich can take around 1800 real watts without any problems, "it´s a joke" !! If you prefer to buy a 1200 watts amp for a 1200 watts sub that can take way more than that it´s your problem, but don´t come here and try to say i´m all wrong just because i count on impedance rise BEFORE buying a new amplifier, instead of doing it after when i´m pissed off because my sub is barely moving, but what do i know? i only have 2 loud cars that can bass race over 150 dbs and make demos all day long without damaging anything, i ain´t wasting more time with you, i´ll stop watching this topic so i don´t have to read another respond from you questioning what i´m saying, i ain´t the most knowledged guy but i can asure you, i know some things.

Or the crashed accord thread

thank me that i´m the one who told you about this great guy hehe, nice banner man, glad you got what you were looking for!!

You can't count of rise when picking a amp. That's not smart. You have no idea how much it rises. And what about playing below tuning where you hardly have any rise? This is why noobs blow and mess up all kinds of equipment cause of comments like this. If the sub is rated at 1200, you need a +/-1200rms. Not 2200rms cause you might only see 1200rms out of it on music. Yes you can count on the rise when you are picking an amp, you´ll know you won´t see 1 ohm for example unless it´s a very and efficient box wich it´s very hard to see on a daily application, so yes i do believe it´s smart, what i don´t think it is has to be playing way below tuning, i´m a smart guy and after getting tons of power on subs and not blowing them, i think i do know what i´m talking about, if he´s a noob he´ll get a design, a box building and gain settings from a knowledge guy, so don´t come and talk to me like i give advices without thinking on anything please, save it to someone else. if it´s a 1200 watts sub it´s boring to have a 1200 watts where you´ll get 600 watts if you are lucky, knowing that with a much cheaper sub you could even be louder, and then, getting angry about a guy with a system much cheaper than yours been able to play just as loud

that thing looks badass!!

i'd just like to point out that thins build was not actually sealed, but a 4th order diamond build... I need to learn a little bit more about this diamond 4th order´s

NO!

First of all, those subs can handle power and abuse just great, that 3" coil helps a lot! Second, remember there´s something called impedance rise and voltage drops, your 2200 watts amplifier will push 1200 watts to that sub if you are lucky ahaha, and third, it´s always better to have a bigger amp and set the gains nice and unclipped than having a smaller amp with a cranked gains. Said all that, i wouldn´t worry about getting the AQ, should be perfect for your application at this moment, a better alternator should be your next goal

I would go with the AQ2200.1

That´s even a better option, hope someday i can get myself a sundown

My buddy has a picasso 1500.1 wired at 2 ohms, subs BARELY move and he´s very loud actually, i would go with something like an hifonics bxi2610D , AQ2200.1 , there are tons of options, depends on your budget, and mostly, your voltage, what´s your wiring?batts?alt?.

My 2512´s got clamped recently, they are taking 1200 clamped watts each one and they can bass race without getting hot hehe, but that´s DD , you can´t compare both brands Anyways, price isn´t that bad really, but i honesty would have gone with a pair of 12´s of a better brand, easier to fit a box inside of the focus, easier to sealed from the trunk and even for a similar price