bigrank916

I had seen that info about the head unit sensing the ohm load from the speaker. Most of the LOC PRO units from Audiocontrol have an ohm selector switch that will feed that info back to the head unit. Hopefully that will fix that issue. Did you use an LOC with that feature? I've even heard of in line resistor type for stock plug ins. Was that the only issue you had going the high level input route? I'd love to find something that would allow me to use RCAs straight from the head unit. I haven't seen anyone replace the HU from my vehicle or the like anywhere online. Everything I've read or watched says aftermarket units for my car is next to impossible with the NAV, climate, etc integration. It's a very weird shape as well so nothing from a normal kit would work.

Man after doing some research I was going to go the DSP route but I think I want to keep it a bit less tech for now. I don't have a laptop, only a desktop, so it would be one more thing I would need. It sounds awesome but i dont think Im ready for that yet. I've been looking into using 9 of the 10 speaker system for amplifiers. The 4 door tweeters and 4 mids with sub. I'd like to keep the front center channel playing from the stock amp if possible. The prob I have currently is not knowing exactly how the high level input signal is tapped into. I've never had to use speaker level inputs let alone with a stock integrated amp. I'm trying to plan what parts I need but I need to understand this better. I still want to retain all the stock chimes and alert/alarm noises but don't want all that coming thru the sub etc at same volume. Would I cut any of the existing speaker wires or just splice into them and where would I do that at? The videos and diagrams I've seen are pretty contradictory. If I'm replacing all the speakers and running wire from my amps, will that affect the radio in sensing that there isn't a speaker hooked up anymore? I'm guessing I cut/splice into the speaker wires before they go into the the stock amp to get the speaker input? Would I leave the one center front channel speaker wire hooked up the the factory amp and cut the others for the LOC? Or leave them all connected to the amp and just splice into the wires? Is this the best place to get the signal? I have no idea what's going on there. I'm stuck for now. From that point I feel like I have a better understanding of what's going on. I was looking at using several pieces from AudioControl like an LC8i for all 8 mids and tweets. Then a LC2i PRO for the sub channel. That would easily place all nine channels. Then from there I'd use Y connectors on both mids and tweets channels from the LC8i to run to something like a LC7i PRO or a DQ-61, etc. Ultimately after that I'd like to use and EQX or some kind of EQ or EQ/crossover combo if possible. Then also toss in the Epicenter Micro. Not sure what order all of it goes in but i think at least it's gotta start with the LOC. My new Mechman 370 amp billet alternator got here today. I will be concentrating on running the big 3, installing the new alt, and running several 1/0ga power runs to the rear while I plan the components. I think I have enuf for about 3 runs, maybe 4. I'd like to use all that I have left from a 50ft spool I bought years ago. I will get a XS Power D4800 battery for under the hood very soon. I will also get the charger to make sure I install it at full power. I'm not getting it yet but I'd like to get a secondary battery like a D3100. After I get the main electrical done with main battery, I will decide what secondary battery to use while beginning to order the OEM integration parts. That would prob be all I'd ever need for that vehicle. Eventually I will mess around and get a larger sub amp/sub to see what it can do so the extra power will come in handy.

I've been cruising the Audiocontrol site and might have come across a few things I could use. An LC8i for the mids and tweets, LC2i for the sub with the epicenter. The epicenter isn't prob needed but idk much about it. I was looking for a DM-810 but its sold out everywhere. I'm thinking this stuff will cover the signal issue from the factory head unit? Would I need anything else?

I picked up this car recently and wanted to toss in some equipment that I've had laying around BNIB for years. I don't know how much of it will fit or how to make it work but I'd like to use all of it if possible. I'm going to attempt to install this myself but was looking for pointers so I don't fuck anything up along the way. I will make a build log when I get an actual plan of action. I've been looking at a few videos on how to take the interior apart etc. I think when it gets here, I will start with the h/o alty and the big 3. Planning to lay a few runs of neg and pos 1/0ga cable. I'd like to grab a D4800 for under the hood and something else in the back. Do the things Im comfortable in doing first. I've seen that using an aftermarket head unit is a bad idea which will prob make this more difficult to source a signal but Idk. I think I might need some optical outlet to a DSP then from there to the amp? I have no idea so I'm hoping to get a lot of help here lol. I will most likely make the lcd screen swap I've seen on YT as well. Other than that it was gonna look stock for the most part. I like the look it has, just needs some beat. The items that I already have are as listed: 1- SSA 15" D2 XCon 1- AudioQubed Q1 2200D 2- NVX JAD800.4 4- SSA Evil 6.5" mids 4ohm 4- SSA Evil 1" tweets 4 ohm sound dampener wiring and cable Do you guys think this will work? What are the obstacles you see right away? I'm open to all ideas. Thanks!

Im starting a new project with my Geo. Took the BTL out of my truck and put it in here. Messed around with a sealed enclosure for shit and giggles for a little while. Now I need a new alty and some batts!

Keep up the great work Mark.

As long as the kicks are good enough!

This truck is sick! :hairtrick: I need your captains chairs dude. I like the way you did the doors as well. Beautiful job.

You are always on top of it Mark. Nice job for the SMD forum.