J-Lane

Anyone?

OK, so from being on this site I have learned a whole lot from a lot of people but I have a question on an enclosure for my friends dad. He has a 4 Runner and he is going to get a sub from a friend of his. It's a Pioneer TS-W3001D4. I know that it is recommended that the sub face up and the port face the back of the vehicle however he uses the vinyl cover that hides his stuff in the cargo area. Should I still have the sub facing up? I'm sure its going to cause some problems if he has it pulled over the sub and he said he doesn't want to leave it open. Any suggestions?

I have an FI Q 15 also and I'm also pushing 600 rms to it. I went with the larger box but I tuned low because I like the lows. It sounds awesome for only 600 rms. Just curious, what kind of vehicle are you putting it in?

Must have been installed by cartoys.

I have an FI Q15 and I'm only throwing 600 RMS at it and the thing pounds. Like the other people have posted the big factor is going to be the enclosure that you use. I also like the really low end bass and I tuned my enclosure to 28 Hz.

OK. I have only seen one Horn loaded design that fits well in a vehicle and unfortunately you will still need a fair amount of room for this thing. A friend of mine had a Suburban that he wanted to build a horn loaded design for and he found this design. It is actually not too hard to build if you have some box building experience. The thing that blew me away is that he had two Pioneer 10's that he was using for this box. I have never liked Pioneer subs because well if you have ever heard them you would know why. After we put this box in his car he played all kinds of music from Rap to Rock to Jazz and this thing hit so solid and still hit extreme lows I couldn't believe it. It was unreal how loud it could get while still producing excellent sound quality. The plans are free to download. Check it out. FYI don't do the smaller version. It doesn't sound good at all.

I use Room EQ Wizard. It does Waterfall Plots, RTA, SPL etc... Its a cool program and you cant beat the price, FREE! I suggest useing an external Mic that is made for measuring but it will still work without one it just wont be very accurate. The only thing is you have to register for the forum at Home Theater Shack to download it.

Watch this video about soulja boy and you will be cracking up. Watch the whole thing.

Yep, they (Fi) are all handmade and you can customize them a little as well. All of their subs have a warranty except the BTL line.

You have a hard decision because those are all good brands. Good luck.

Yeah, the SSD 15 is $199 before shipping. I haven't heard those personally but I hear they are a decent sub as well.

An Fi Q15 is $288 shipped. That's what I'm using and I have been very happy with it.

Not necessarily. As far as I know it can go either way. The problem is if you continue to push higher voltage like that it could damage your battery.

Your voltage regulator may be going bad. On really old cars they are an external device but on newer cars it's part of the internal workings of the alternator. You may want to have it looked at.

Are you running all your equipment off your factory head unit? If you are, I would guess that you are using a high to line level converter. I would check that as well to verify there are no loose wires (some of them can create alot of noise too). I think you might be right though as for the RCA's being the issue. I broke one of my RCA's years ago by pulling too hard and I broke the wires internally. I didn't realize it till I tested everything and I had this weird feedback/whining kind of noise.

Before ripping out all the RCA's and replacing them. See if you have a set of RCA's and run them from the deck to the amp and see if the problem still exists. How is the head unit grounded? I know that sometimes if you use the factory head unit ground it is usually insufficient. You should try to ground it to the frame as well. It sounds like a ground loop issue the way you are describing the sound. Good luck and let us know what you find.

Thanks! Downloading it now.

Here is the way to set your amplifier gains with an o-scope. Some people claim you can do it with a DMM (Digital Multi-Meter) but an oscilloscope is your best bet.

Haven't heard RE but I have an Fi Q15 that sounds awesome. I know it's the sound quality line but they still put out an immense amount of bass and I run them all day while I'm driving and they handle it well.

I Like anything around 28-32 Hz but it's all about personal preference. If you are looking to go loud you will probably want to stay around 35-40. I chose 28 Hz for my Fi Q15 and I am very happy with the outcome.

It's not that you can't play below the tuned frequency, just that the speaker will not be as efficient below the tuned frequency. The speaker will likely need to work a lot harder to reproduce frequencies below the tuned frequency so you should be careful to not cause the speaker to bottom out. The vehicle acoustics can also play a large part in the way it sounds as well.

You mentioned that you placed the car in neutral earlier to move the car. I had a car that had an issue once because of the switch that requires the car to be in park before you could start the car was not quite activated. Try shifting out of park and then back into park and see if that helps. It's a long shot but you never know. Good luck!

Get an Fi.

Cool ! Thank you for that bit of info about the sub level. I was kind of curious about that because with it set to 0 it just seemed like it was real weak. I also didn't know about using a lower frequency for gain settings on the highs. OK, I was wondering if maybe something was wrong with my head unit or something. Thank you all that replied for the help!! stevemeadedesigns.com and it's members are the SHIT!! Thanks again!

Is it normal for a head unit to not clip the signal at all? I would expect it to at some point.