C.Sanchez.A

Funny thing is my uncle suggested boosting the car. Also, having a dead cell wouldn't surprise me considering it's the original battery from 2002. I think what I will do is charge up my spare battery, and then install it and see if every thing works better.

Ok so I randomly went to try and start my car and... it did! WTF is up with that? It smelt a little like gas once it did start, I'm guessing it got flooded? How..? I do not know but all well it runs good now and starts ok. Tomorrow I'm going to replace the fuel filter and do an oil change. Hopefully that makes thing a little better.

That's what I was thinking . I just spent $320 on the lower control arm... Any way of testing it?

I went to start my car today and all that I got was a single click and then there was nothing, not even power. At first I thought my battery was dead. I hooked up my multimeter and every thing was good. I even have power when the key is turned to auxiliary. Every thing was working fin yesterday. What could the problem be? The vehicle is a 2002 Mazda Protege Lx 2.0L

Thanks I check a few of the sites out real quick and I found one thing I'm going to get soon.

Bump. Any more imput? Like places to buy good parts and trustworthy part companies.

Now I'm getting somewhere. I was planing on getting shops to do the really important technical stuff that needs super precision. I am going to get new pistons and plan on adding a turbo. Converting it to manual (not a priority). I do understand the fact that if I do any thing to the engine it affects other components in the vehicle. Now, when you mention quality parts what companies do you suggest. I will get pictures and such of the the car this Sunday. It's parked at my grand mothers and she lives an hour away. If you need more info just ask.

Ok so I'm at it again. Except this time I can only do good. I have a 2002 Mazda Protege LX 2.0L with a blown motor. Now, if you can put 2 and 2 together you know where I'm going with this. I want to rebuild it. I want to get as much out of it as I can, while still keeping it road legal... kinda. My problem is I don't exactly know what to do first (after pulling the engine out and stripping it to the block, then cleaning and painting it). Now, before you guys say I'm not experienced enough to be doing this, let me tell you that ''The engine is already finished, I can only do good. If I screw up well, I can just scrap it no big deal.'' I also will be doing this under my uncle (who is a mechanic)'s supervision. I really want to learn these things and write now I don't have the money to go to school. This is the only way I can learn. Any constructive help will be greatly appreciated.

I'm I the prosess of doing one my selfe I mesured 50" from seatbelt to seatbelt (in my 1993). Check my build to see.

I remeber when I rolled my car. Sent a 8" out out of the windows and it landed about 100 feet away. Lucky none of the subs came lose and flew out of the box.

She can be very very stubborn but, I'm trying every thing I can to keep both. Or, I could take my time fixing the B3K to get it up to selling point (The interior is gutted for my install) and keep both for that time...

Well if I stick with the S10, I'm going to have to rethink my whole sound system... Blow through? I'm going to check out the truck tomorrow... I'll post a video of it and get some more impute... I just really don't want to get rid of my B3K... My GF won't let me keep both...

Man you would have MONTHS of straight work ahead of you. Not worth it. Would it be easier to swap motors then?

Ok I have a 1993 Mazda B3000 (Ford ranger) that I've put allot of work into the cab. Now, I have the opportunity to purchase an S10 (not sure of the year), with a 350 V8. There is nothing wrong with the S10, I just find they are over used. So, I was wondering if it was possible to put the B3K body on the S10 frame and vise versa. I really want to keep the B3K, it's the first vehicle that I have bought. Hope that made sense.

I was afraid of having to cut it out... but I guess I gotta do what I gotta do.

It's not pretty much... it IS a ford ranger just with a few badge changes. Every part I have removed says ford on it. P.S. The problem might have been solved. I might be getting my hands on a S10 with a 350 in it already and in running condition.

I know that will keep the rust away, but how do I get rid of it? I'm not trying to be a dick or offend you,but the best bet is scrape it and buy you another car...There's not you can do to fix it useless you want to spend big money.. I already have another car I just need to wait for the leagle maters to be resolved and for my truck to be running. I need to take the engine out of the car I'm driving now and put it in the other. So right now I just want to fix what I can while learning something new.

I know that will keep the rust away, but how do I get rid of it?

I'm starting with the trunk where the emblems where and behind my license plate. I'm going to be replacing the doors as for the floor my uncle is going to fix it.

I need to remove some stubborn rust from my car. I've tried sanding with 60 grit on a DA sander and using a wire brush on a drill. Still there. Any tips?

I will ship to Canada but I do not make false invoices and whatnot (common request from foreign customers). What would shipping be for two Z V.1 or two NS v.1 to North Bay, ontario P1B1J6 Canada

Would you ship to Canada?

TTT Any other options?

The guidelines are so strict you can't even sing the lyrics! Or use any thing that's been altered, liked if it was slowed, chopped screwed, etc...

I'm planing to put the amp on two DC Xl 12s. The impedance of the voice coils will determine by the amp. Basically I will pick an amp, then find which dual voice coil impedance works best. Hope that's not to confusing. I'm just trying to find as much information as possible before I commit to buying.