speedball1978

i have a power acoustik 4000 that does 2200 @ 1 ohm, if you're interested let me know

get 2 big amps to push all your subs if you can afford 1200 bucks for 12 amps, just buy 2 amps you'll actually save a little there

for 100 dollars per amp you could get away with power acoustik or db drive

another option is to get a fuse tester test every fuse and find the ones that are blown, replace all the blown fuses, recheck your grounds, and wirings to make sure none of the wires are loose and not touching each other.

shoot i would go 4 18's you got the space for it, believe me, its sicka

most likely the amp is 2 ohm stable per channel and 4 ohm stable bridged stereo

what kind of coating do you want, there's fiber resin, there's that bedliner spray polyutherthane like the proboxes or just wrap it in suede..

dude get yourself a 100 amp anl fuse that 4 gauge will smoke that 80 amp since your amp is trying to draw 90 so its overloaded on the 80 amp fuse, as far as the sub goes, i wouldn't know, i blew one of my subs yesterday but still have 2 good ones to play with subs will just blow when they feel like it, but i would recommend 12 gauge wires for your subs less resistance

yea i've already checked with a dmm, the epic is pretty close to what the dmm reads... well in that case if i'm reading above 13v then i'm good, thanks guys for your input, i was mostly concerned with the voltage drop, i haven't done the big 3 yet.. don't know if i really wanna mess with doing the big 3, specially a 4 banger , freakin motor cramped in sideways, but oh well i'll deal with it later.

its a 4 cyclinder lol, the stock alt is a 130 amp

2009 malibu lt2 i know a good reading is 12 volts thats normal reading, but i have an epic 160 i'm watching the voltage reading while playing it variates from 14 to 13.6 volts when the bass peaks

whats a good voltage reading at idle before the system is on and after it has played...trying to get a good general idea if my charging system is in good standing, found out i can't get a high output alt for my car, there's not one made for it yet at this time

lol, i've checked several times in the past few days, thats why i haven't upgraded yet, its a 4 banger motor, so i don't have easy access to the alt but i can see the alt just fine, and i ran my hand from the battery and both positive wires run from battery to starter and another from battery to the fuse box with a 80 amp inline fuse... may i ask why i need to run 300 amp fuses, i'm only running 3 kicker cvx's 12's , a pa1-4000d amp, avh-3200dvd head unit. all my wiring is 4 gauge with a shuriken btk-80 which is 80 amp/hr rated at 1900 watts of surge power, the amp runs at 1 ohm stable 2200 watts give and take a few, but soon i'll upgrade the amp cuz i'm running at .67 ohm load on the amp, to my suprise it doesn't get hot, just warm...

lol, i've checked several times in the past few days, thats why i haven't upgraded yet, its a 4 banger motor, so i don't have easy access to the alt but i can see the alt just fine, and i ran my hand from the battery and both positive wires run from battery to starter and another from battery to the fuse box with a 80 amp inline fuse... may i ask why i need to run 300 amp fuses, i'm only running 3 kicker cvx's 12's , a pa1-4000d amp, avh-3200dvd head unit. all my wiring is 4 gauge with a shuriken btk-80 which is 80 amp/hr rated at 1900 watts of surge power, the amp runs at 1 ohm stable 2200 watts give and take a few, but soon i'll upgrade the amp cuz i'm running at .67 ohm load on the amp, to my suprise it doesn't get hot, just warm...

its a stock 130 amp alt, as far as upgrading, i would have to do that sometime later down the road, but i like the answer you gave me about the isolator, makes sense now why i'm getting voltage drop on the hard hits,

I already know what the big 3 upgrade is , 1/0 battery to engine block, another from battery to chassis, then battery to alt... Well thats where the problem ends, battery to alt, there isn't one, it actually runs to the starter, anyone know of any complications with this. ITs a 2009 chevy malibu, i can access my alt, but... where the f^%& do i hook it up to, should i leave the stock cable from battery to starter alone or junk it for the 1/0 wire, the other question is do i fuse that wire (battery to alt)?. Third question, i got my second battery in the trunk with an isolator, is this the proper set up or should i be running the wire straight from main battery to the trunk battery without the isolator??? please advise me Thanks