Coleslaw

Bump...

You probably did the outside dimensions rather than correcting for inside dimensions. You have to subtract 2 * the thickness of the wood from each dimension.

I got 6.08 cubes if you are using 3/4" MDF and 5.64 cubes if using 1" MDF

I'm planning to build a new box for my 2 Infinity Reference 860w's that I currently use in my dorm for music/movies. This will be my third "real" box I have built. My first box was the box the subs are in now and I completely messed it up when I built it but it still sounds good. I wanted to try some new things with this box and have been reading about kerfing and wanted to try it. Also, I liked the idea of kerfing all the corners of the port so this is what I came up with. the braces are 1" dowels and I might also put the left over bits of dowel in to brace the inside of the port but haven't decided yet. The box is tuned to... well... I'm honestly not quite sure. If it was a conventional port (but still kerfed at the end) it would be tuned to about 27 hz but I wasn't sure how to adjust it with the kerfed corners. I tried accounting for the difference in box volume and port volume and came up with about 25 hz after adjusting but I'm not sure if that is right. I was just going for as low tuning as possible since it will be used in my ht setup. Anyways, anyone have any opinions/tips/advice? Thanks.

*Cough* http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=293-658 *Cough*

anyone have any input?

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K, New design, tell me what you think/which is better. I based the port length off "physical port length" in torres. Not sure if that is right but I don't really understand Torres (if anyone wants to explain that would be awesome XD).

I just don't know exactly how torres calc lays out the port and such so I just used it as a general base and did it myself from there. Torres shows 15.75" physical port length but I wasn't sure exactly how that was done. Yea, I wanted to do a 3 common wall setup but I was having to make the port really long so I wasn't sure if I wanted to do it that way. I might try re-designing it that way. This isn't anything that is going to be done like this week, I'm just planning it out. It will prolly be built during christmas break when I am home from college since I don't have time to do it atm so I have plenty of time to play with ideas. I know, like I said in the previous comment I might redesign with a 3 common wall setup. I just didn't at first because I was having to make the port so long to get the tuning I want.

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Redesigned box farther down, please check out both and tell me what you think I'm pretty new at designing subwoofer boxes. I have built one and designed a couple. I came up with this design using Torres Box Tuning Calculator and wanted to get a more experienced opinion on it. I have calculated it to be about 3.97 cubes gross the box calculator says port displacement is .79 cubes (which I feel is a little high) and I guesstimated woofer displacement around .15 cubes cuz I couldn't find the actual number. This leaves me at 3.03 cubes net (3 cubes is the recommended for this driver). As for the port, it is 6.25 in x 6.25 in and I calculated it at 22.75 in long (after end correction). According to Torres this gives 39.06 sq in of port (it gives a range of 36-48 sq in) and 12.89 sq in of port area per foot and a tuning of 33.45 hz. I'm putting a pic below (measurements in pic are internal wood will be either 1" or 3/4") but does this look/sound like it would be a good box for daily SQL?

Looks fine to me. I don't really know much about this (I just really got into car audio and stuff like a month ago) but I noticed that your aeroports are 11 inches long and the depth of your box is 14 inches. I read somewhere that it is best to have at least 6 inches between the end of the ports and the walls of the enclosure. I'm not sure how much of a difference that makes but I just wanted to throw my 2 cents in there. Lol. Since nobody had answered yet.

As already stated, the first box the vid shows is an L-Ported box. If you watch his other vids (or even this one) he talks about it. Also, as far as the other one being a t-line (and I think someone mentioned his T-line for his 10 as well), T-lines can incorporate a compression chamber, as both of his do. I don't know the specific theory behind how big you make it and such but it can be used, usually because you can't fit the subwoofer(s) in the line and stay within the constraints of the port area. Most often I have seen this technique used in home theater style t-lines that are basically a small MDF enclosure with large PVC (or sonotube because it cheaper) pipe coming out of the top. So, both the box in this vid and the one for his 10 inch are in fact modified t-lines (the one in this video being more of a modified horn design due to the expansion of the line).