Sammitch0

sorry i guess if anyone needs proceeds i can pay for a design i dont care how its done or has to be built i want the best loudest design send me pm's for prices needs to hit lots nice @ 5-5.5net in a jeep suv.

can anyone help me out then?!

No but even then its 3.75 inches away i think 4 inches is far enough.. if worse comes worse ill find a way to add another inch to the depth The widge has to be 45 because I want it sit flush with the back of my jeep.

I dont know what your talking about the port would be 4 1/2 inches from the back thats almost the width of the port so it should be fine right? also I heard port up sub up in an SUV isnt as loud and I like the look of the sub up port back... if anyone can make it better lemme know i dont mind lower freq eigther. I'd just rather keep the design i have i just cant go over 5.5cft

So I had a 5cft NET box @ 40hz with the wrong port area i was about 10sq inches off... So now im turning to 35hz @ proper port size... Dave from PSI said 5cft @ 35hz is best for this subwoofer... Problem is I need 5.5NET to get 35hz so I figured why not im running rated power if not a little under so she should love an extra .5 cube I just want to make sure this is all correct. 35hz @ 5.5cft net 12.5sqin per cft I'm rusty with sketchup so bear with me... This is what it should look like, my only concern is the port is 5 inches from the back wall is that fine?

Why are you all questioning thor? he owns the damn thing and he runs a lot of power, hell he ran a 10" DC that was beyond blown and thing kept up. Point is thor is no rookie he runs the neo and I believe his claims he has no reason to lie lol... I've always been a fan of the NEO but like most im waiting for a secure heat approach.

I'll sell you my AP1500.1D it does 1500RMS @ 1OHM with 14.4v so if you have the electrical than you're good, things brand new only been running it for about 2 months I'll give it to you for $150 shipped.The reason is I have an AP3000.1D now and I need to get rid of this one for funds towards my second 18.

Best song he has good pick http://rapidshare.com/files/427807586/Lil_Wayne_ft_Rick_Ross_-_Money_Bagz.mp3

Dear Op, Please read the section rules b4 posting. Thank You Moderating Team

ya dude what the hell is up with that? lmao all the other seats are pretty good but the drivers one is completely lipped over its okay though because I'm replacing my seats and carpets with black and red vinyls/leather etc. and thanks for the big ups man I couldnt believe it that a $70 pair of pioneers can sound so loud and clean.

oh I see thanks n8

I paid about $200 for the whole stage setup. I have four 4-way Pioneers that do 75RMS a piece D4's running off a Kicker KX600.4 @ 4 OHM (75x4RMS) currently only the back two are running off the amplifier because I havnt bought speaker wire to run them yet, also only ONE tweeter is hooked up other one was blown upon arrival. soon ill have the two tweeters ooff the deck bridged @ 2OHM (they are 25rms a piece pioneers) and I'll be running the two fronts off the amplifier but for now this is pretty damn loud the outdoor parties LOVE it. if someone wants to help me imbed or tell me how that's be cool too lol

Thats what I was going for derrick a temp bandaid till i cant get the alternator

I understand you have to pay to play... I paid $450 for my subwoofer, $150 to build my box, $170 on one amp, $200 on the other, $400 on all 4 door speakers and $200 on the HU. Ive dropped about $1500 into an entry system, Im unemployed and I have other stuff to pay for (im 21 and live alone) so you could understand why I dont want to pay $500 for a 280a alternator that most people with new vehicles only have to pay $300 for... It'd rather just go through a semi cheaper company and get a smaller alt for $300 or so.

ok aside from DC can anyone refer me to the size alternator id need for my jeep I cant find any? DC is gonna charge me $500 for a 280a(im all set)

I see... So even with the battery/big III ill get the SAME voltage drop? the weird part is when my voltage drops low enough my belt squeaks like its cold or wet and it stops when my voltage goes upto 14v

Ugh I dont have money for this type of stuff guys... So I cant do the big III right now? I have about 20ft of KnuConceptz Kollosus that I wanted to run to it I just need the terminals for the batteries. The alternator is going to be the VERY LAST thing I put in especially if I need over 200a, thats gonna kill my pockets. I need something to hold me by until christmas will another battery and big III do that? (my alternator MIGHT be 90a according to my dad but I eblieve its a stock 95 grand cherokee laredo alt.)

Yes lol obviously no choice in the matter im just going in order based on what will work so I dont spend all my money right now... So BIG III , Battery , Alternator? in that order?

I have a stock 60a alternator which I believe has seen its days numbered, I also have a brand new interstate battery from napa. It was doing decent for awhile @ 1500rms now my belt squeaks when i start my jeep and my voltage drops a lot lowers instantly on songs it barely dropped on before. I'm running an AP1500.1 and a Kicker KX600.4 0 gauge with no big III. I have about $150 to spend on replacement battery and I also need some 0 gauge terminals so I can run the big III etc. Also does anyone think my alternator is going or my battery?

A good 1500rms amplifier would do the trick grab a Hifonics or something that does that at 2ohms.

Mhm and trust me it makes all the difference before I was tuning my boxes @ about 9cubic inches per cubic foot and now I do it @ 12 and the lows hit a lot harder.

Im not defensive man and I take all criticism and advice but I hate people that just say you cant do something with no explination... Im going to go ahead and try it since I know its feasable Ive never heard of unused channels blowing like that but then again I dont know everything sooo... I guess we'll see and im not doing this for big numbers and im not doing it daily I just want to throw it all ina nd see what I can do. I think it'll be fun and last time it did it I got a huge amount of db increase and air movement. its not like im going to crank the Kicker up I just want the extra couple hundred watts/cone area and see what difference it makes. Sorry if I came off as a dick but I know my shit I like to "push" the limits.

How can other channels be damaged if they arent used that makes no sense? im only using 2 of the 4 channels on speakers right now lol. And why did SmokeumTires say to bridge in Series and you're telling me I cant, two different stories here. Instead of telling me I cant do something explain why and I might put more thought into not trying to achieve it. please explain why my channels would be messed up.

Now was that so hard everyone? but oh yeah appearently I couldnt do it in the first place... Bridging 2 channels will be the same as running two subs bridged on each 2 channels right? thats what I was thinking but I wasnt sure. Im not arguing with anyone lmao regaurdless of how much he knows its not hard to figure out that this is indeed possible I just dont know the wiring confirguration.

Why would I sell my 4 channel powering my door speakers? and the 15" which ISNT mine to upgrade a system which is already inadequate electrical wise? Doesn't sound like its for me. Explain how my friend hooked two Dual 2 OHM woofers upto this amplifier then on each 2 channel bridged?