BIG-SEXY AUDIO

I'm about to head over there now, I probably won't go talk to anyone till 1-2 though. So yeah thanks for the support. I'll keep you all posted!

Which is why I said IF, if you would have read carefully, never said I had it, but when they call you wanting you for a job, it's a whole different ballgame than when go for a job. Who knows they mite want me to do it for dirt cheap, and I tell them they can kiss my ass. But hopefully it's gonna be a good thing, they can also help me get my business up to a whole new level!

HAHA I'll denfinally be doing that, I'm gonna stay $20 a hour, my job a bit easier and taking a good 3 days, but it's nothing serious that I'll be doing. 2 12", alittle glassin, nothing to bad.

That's why I love my job, they have two Audio Shops just right down the street but they want me, and I do this out of my little shop. Been doing it for a while but still that's great news for me. How much do you quote them an hour?

Question are you wanting to compete, or just have it for a daily driver. 30-32Hz if you love low lows. 38-40 if you're gonna be trying to get some good numbers, because lows don't win MAX dB scores. 40-50Hz will be where your numbers come from. 36 is perfect for both. Understand the low part in rap songs ususally only drop to 34Hz average. Tuned it lower will just make it deep as hell sounding. L7 15' can play as low as 18Hz which you can't even hear. 36hz is a perfect tuning.

I got a notice from my buddy today, seems someone has been spreading the word in the neighboring towns about BIG-SEXY AUDIO. I have an interview with the FORD PLACE tomorrow. They doing a new program, they're hiring people in different areas to soop-up the trunks & cars to help move them faster. And I'm first pick on audio. I think it'll be a kool BIG side project. I don't know the rules or levels I'm gonna be able to go. I have Brandon's Jeep in the shop now, it's gonna be my demo car till the Yukon is back up and banging. Brandon will be running 2 15 L7's, with dual RedTops, in a 12.75cbft enclosure. Everything else is still being checked on. But FORD'S going AUDIO. How kool of a job for me. I'll post pictures of every car and let you guys tell me what you'd like to see. Keep in mind that IF I land the job, these will be pure SQ setups only. It's for show more than anything!

If you're buying an amp that runs at 1ohm, than wire it at 1ohm, use common sense, if it ran at 0.5ohms than they would tell you. 4 2ohm wired at series/parr. brings everything to 1ohm. Everything will last longer in SAFEMODE. Hang on and I'll get you a wiring diagram. 4_2ohmDVC_1ohm.gif_thumb

KICKER all the way bro. They mite be the cleanest babies on the market, but the MF'ers Deaf'fin'ly get on down. Hell I even built a single L5 setup, and still blew people's shit out of the water. Take a look! 100_1670.jpg_thumb Yukon_Extreme_020.jpg_thumb

Steve is the man when it comes to this, he's doing what he does best!!!!

Duck Tape Son - "Can't duck it **** it" Sorry just had too Personly I believe my fav. tools would have to be a power drill and sander. I can sand the hell out of things, I love to be able to throw a shirt on something and it just slide off. Like a baby's ass gentlemen!

Well to be truthful, the old 12cbft @ 28Hz landed a 150.2 just a few months ago with a 25 Hert tone, I was told the 2006 is a bit thougher, so I'm look for a 149-150 with the new setup, the enclosure is tuned & crossed at low so when the higher bass is played there's no nasty clean sound. The L7 15's in my Yukon peak at 25Hz, which is great for me. It's already been tested A+. When I buy the next two L7's no I'm not going to tuned it that low probably range from 28-30. But guys thinks for answer my question. Just hope they sounds good like the old ones.

I thought you were running the MX's

Don't know what to tell ya, sounds like there mite be a bug in the T3002's. Scary cause I'm about to buy a T5002 to power my Alpine 6.5's. But other than that I don't know what to tell ya there boss!!!

It's just in your tone through the words you use, but I'll have it as soon as I get my money for my Explorer & income taxs. And I'll just go from there. Goal with the two L7's is 149.5! But great to break a 150 with just 3K!

Two things that I'll state, because I don't know how skilled you are with audio. But check the wiring inside your box and make sure it's at the ohm the amp preforms at, this can affect your safe mode and cause the amp to shut down due to overload. Second is when you by an new amp, you need to give it about a week on low before you krank it up. Give the mirco ele. time to break in. The new Kickers are the same as the new RF's you can't just get in your car and slam it instantly. They have to reach a certain temp, to preform 100%.

What's your problem Accord? I've been in this business for 4 years, I test things before I spend $15,000 on sumthing, I like to find out what works and doesn't in the Yukon. Understand the L7 15's maxx at 20-32 Hz, that's all they were made for. To be X-tremely loud in that Hz range. So a 22Hz enclosure will enhance the tones, the L7's maxx at 4-6 cubes of air. So with 6 cubes tuned at 22Hz will give me that concert sound while still giving me a good number.

My subs maxx'ed @ 25 Hz in the old 28Hz enclosure. But the guys at Kicker stated they could play a clean 25Hz in a 22Hz enclosure all day long with under 1500RMS. So what I'm going to do is buy a T30001bd and two 2ohm L7's, wire the to 2ohms which will give me a rated 1000RMS to each one. I got Meade sending me the test sheet for his T40001's so I can find an average test power for them. I'd like one with at least 3200RMS tested though. That's what's got me held up with the BTL's is the T20001's prorbaly ain't going to do what I want them to do. So I'm going to test this T3000 to find my power supply needs times 4.

The Enclosure I just built for them is tuned @ 22 Hz = 6 cubes per sub. I'm going to cross them out at 45 Hz, So I'm ready going to hear any higher ones from them. I had the other two I use to have tuned @ 28Hz cross out @ 50Hz, they were pretty clean once they got broke in. But my question is do they sound different from the others versions?

I haven't been anywhere around the new L7's, just wondered how they sounded compared to the older 2002-2003 versions(silver and red faced). Since the new L7 have a different cone material, and VC. Because the older models seemed to be more smoother than the 2005 series. So holla back at me with those comments!

Steve you could just open a SPL store, I don't think you've have to worry about people not buying, Here's a thought if you do end up doing something like that. Sale Loaded boxes-systems, buy 2 15" the propare amp to power them, boxes build to specs, or extreme SPL. And sale like that, because over 70% of the people into audio still don't understand the importants of ohm's. So easy just do it for them. Just a thought-idea wanted to throw your way.

I'm going to try out the Memphis first, trail and error equals knowlegde. I just don't want to get the 360 due to the fact I also have to get a Palm. They need to make just a screen that comes with it to control it, it would make more sense that way.

All the above, #1 is for the front highs and mids, so there's my front right and left + the spare sub input / #2 is for the rear mids and highs, right and left + plus the share sub input = 4 channels for front and rear controls, then a have 2 sub input to play with, so why not use them, loop the signal throught. Then it's boosts my signal from 5 to 7 volts.

That's reason you wire them out of sync (out of phase), isobaric is more push pull than a normal bandpass, which just uses the compression of the sealed chamber as the note the subs produce. That way when one is goiing back the other is going forward and Vica Vesa, I'd recommend using a baffle for each sub which should give you 2 1/4 inches between ring to ring.

AudioControl will do the same thing that me and emperorjj1 are talking about, and yes I understood.But with a 7 volt output the signal stood stay pretty strong, it's only one crossover per front and back, I was going to loop the sub input due to the fact I could have another 24dB ( 12dB of signal boost per x-over) will would give me about a 3dB increase on songs that have no bass, so I'll have that 24dB's of signal to play with, I'll try it and see, I'll let the TL be the test. I just want to hit that 155.0 flat. All in how the enclosure performs for me.

True, that's the reason for wanting the best, lower model brands distortes some signals, but the great one cut and pass where it is needed, put it this way if it decreases the sound, just run my signal direct and no big deal, some when you do a demo, just fool with the knobs, to make it look kool for the smaller kids.