photochrisb931

Bigmescan is correct. My neighbor just got rid of her LS because the tranny was failing. The quote to fix it was 2800. It does seem to be the going rate for that particular trans.

Kranny I agree with you 95% of the time but have replaced gm ignition switches that have rendered a car completely dead. No electrical working period. Not the most common but does happen.

Not necessarily. There was a tech service bulletin a while back on the olds bravada stating if the ignition switch is misindexed it could cause if indexed in one direction cause interior lights or dash lights to stay on and drain the electrical system. Also if misindexed in the other direction it could lead to a no start because it would not travel far enough to complete and start. Also a worn out switch can lead to a misindex which does explain all of your problems. If it is not supplying enough voltage to the interlock solenoid that would explain why your key will not come out. this is just my best guess at the problem.

I would check the ignition switch. If it is not completing the connection when you turn the key it would not tell the rest of it to activate.

good luck man. take it all with a grain of salt and remember almost every opinion is subjective of someones personal taste. Get out and listen to the products you are interested in. Best case is to listen to it in a car but a listening room is ok to get an idea. . Use the search button and look up stuff on here. Before you do anything read the big three tutorial and start with a solid electrical that will help everything you do after that point.

there was a guy on here that did a sick build with 15's in a bandpass box ported into the passenger compartment. that was an absolutely gorgeous install. Unless you do something like that in the marquis like i have or a vic, you are fighting an uphill battle with the gas tank between the trunk and passenger compartment. Mine sounds ok sub back, port back. There are many days I wish i had an suv or a normal car with a straight trunk then passenger compartment.

you might think about editing your original post to remove the vs part of it. maybe word in a manner of 4 12s or 2 15s on about the same amount of power. do not name the companies and that would help make the original post not be a violation.

I have a Zapco reference 360.4. And a reference 1100.1 for my sub. I just upgraded from the Zapco Iforce 5100. My sub amp is a 1 ohm modified version. I am currently running it at 2ohms because I need to upgrade my alternator before I pull that much power.

I agree with 412 CVX. Go listen to some good highs and buy the ones you like the best. I just changed out my highs and went with the focal polyglass 6.5 and 5.25 components. I liked them the best of what I could get local. Most better sets will be around 300 a set. Some a little more some a little less. There are good ones cheaper no doubt but it is all about what you want and what you can afford.

i think the rounded dust cap with the grey cone was like 90-92 ish. I had a set of the 93's and they had the inverted dust cap with red writing and grey cone. if I remember correctly, the 10's I had were rated at like 100w rms. if you go to rockford fosgate.com they have an owners manual for the 94 series in the knowledge base section under support. I believe they were the same specs just changed the dust cap to an inverted one.

they do look at the fb/f3 line

Audio Enhancer does have a website that states their thicknesses. http://www.audioenhancers.com/driverspecific/kpl15s.php

If your gains are set properly with an O-scope or dd1 and you are careful, probably. Another idea would be purchase an external crossover and run them active. That way you would not exceed the rms and not have to use the passive crossovers.

You are correct, Lanzar was great back in the day when their subs were built by Credence and amps were built by Zed. At some point they were bought by the same company the owns Pyramid and Pyle and that was the end of good Lanzar. I ran the old subs and loved them. I hear the opti stuff is not bad. Personally, I would look at another company if I wanted quality equipment. This is just my .02.

Agreed the starter is not engaging. I would try tapping it to try and get it to engage. Fortunately, they are not bad to get to. If it does not start, tow it or change it in the lot. Not much option.