photochrisb931

Bigmescan is correct. My neighbor just got rid of her LS because the tranny was failing. The quote to fix it was 2800. It does seem to be the going rate for that particular trans.

Kranny I agree with you 95% of the time but have replaced gm ignition switches that have rendered a car completely dead. No electrical working period. Not the most common but does happen.

Not necessarily. There was a tech service bulletin a while back on the olds bravada stating if the ignition switch is misindexed it could cause if indexed in one direction cause interior lights or dash lights to stay on and drain the electrical system. Also if misindexed in the other direction it could lead to a no start because it would not travel far enough to complete and start. Also a worn out switch can lead to a misindex which does explain all of your problems. If it is not supplying enough voltage to the interlock solenoid that would explain why your key will not come out. this is just my best guess at the problem.

I would check the ignition switch. If it is not completing the connection when you turn the key it would not tell the rest of it to activate.

good luck man. take it all with a grain of salt and remember almost every opinion is subjective of someones personal taste. Get out and listen to the products you are interested in. Best case is to listen to it in a car but a listening room is ok to get an idea. . Use the search button and look up stuff on here. Before you do anything read the big three tutorial and start with a solid electrical that will help everything you do after that point.

there was a guy on here that did a sick build with 15's in a bandpass box ported into the passenger compartment. that was an absolutely gorgeous install. Unless you do something like that in the marquis like i have or a vic, you are fighting an uphill battle with the gas tank between the trunk and passenger compartment. Mine sounds ok sub back, port back. There are many days I wish i had an suv or a normal car with a straight trunk then passenger compartment.

you might think about editing your original post to remove the vs part of it. maybe word in a manner of 4 12s or 2 15s on about the same amount of power. do not name the companies and that would help make the original post not be a violation.

I have a Zapco reference 360.4. And a reference 1100.1 for my sub. I just upgraded from the Zapco Iforce 5100. My sub amp is a 1 ohm modified version. I am currently running it at 2ohms because I need to upgrade my alternator before I pull that much power.

I agree with 412 CVX. Go listen to some good highs and buy the ones you like the best. I just changed out my highs and went with the focal polyglass 6.5 and 5.25 components. I liked them the best of what I could get local. Most better sets will be around 300 a set. Some a little more some a little less. There are good ones cheaper no doubt but it is all about what you want and what you can afford.

i think the rounded dust cap with the grey cone was like 90-92 ish. I had a set of the 93's and they had the inverted dust cap with red writing and grey cone. if I remember correctly, the 10's I had were rated at like 100w rms. if you go to rockford fosgate.com they have an owners manual for the 94 series in the knowledge base section under support. I believe they were the same specs just changed the dust cap to an inverted one.

they do look at the fb/f3 line

Audio Enhancer does have a website that states their thicknesses. http://www.audioenhancers.com/driverspecific/kpl15s.php

If your gains are set properly with an O-scope or dd1 and you are careful, probably. Another idea would be purchase an external crossover and run them active. That way you would not exceed the rms and not have to use the passive crossovers.

You are correct, Lanzar was great back in the day when their subs were built by Credence and amps were built by Zed. At some point they were bought by the same company the owns Pyramid and Pyle and that was the end of good Lanzar. I ran the old subs and loved them. I hear the opti stuff is not bad. Personally, I would look at another company if I wanted quality equipment. This is just my .02.

Agreed the starter is not engaging. I would try tapping it to try and get it to engage. Fortunately, they are not bad to get to. If it does not start, tow it or change it in the lot. Not much option.

Like has been said basically the same car. There are pros and cons to each. The only thing I see as a drawback on the Firebirds is the pop up headlights. Admittadely, I am a pontiac fan but I hate pop ups. Also, does one have t-tops and one a solid roof? I would vote for the solid roof for security and lack of maintenance on the seals. Mechanically a GM v-8 is pretty bullet proof and even the 3.8L is a darn good 6. So really which one has been taken better care of and has lower miles. That would be how I would decide the choice.

I run stinger 14awg from my fronts and 16 awg from my rear deck. My sub is wired with stinger 12awg. Not cheap but not crazy on their smaller guage wire.

Like 727 said, either listen for the fuel pump to click and cycle or if you can not hear it from the driver seat get someone to turn the key on and you listen to the fuel pump from the fuel fill with the cap off. That said the guides for the timing chain on the 22re are notorious for breaking, hence the only timing chain I know of that recomends replacement every 70-90k because the guides wear out. I have seen the chains with enough slop that have taken out the crank sensor which would cause a no start issue. That is a worse case situation but not uncommon.

There is a zed forum section at soundsolutionaudio.com. Check there but it looks like they changed the bourd layout so probably fine. Plus see if the guy can hook it up for you to hear before you buy it. I got lucky on the last os amp purchase. The guy met me at a local shop that hooked it up on their bench to make sure it would power up and play fine. It took about 45 minutes, 30 minutes of play time and only cost me $15.

After a quick google search I found this. http://www.diymobile...ib-15-pros.html About 2/3 of the way down the post is an inside shot of a cr600. It does look like it is missing a part. Since these amps were made by Zed audio you may want contact them to confirm.

I agree with LoudBimmer. Save up the extra 100 and go with the Singer. It is an extra 40amps and most importantly you know who made it and his reputation. The saying you get what you pay for goes a long way. Also check DC power and Ohio Generators. Probably will not be a lot of difference in price but you will get quality.

I agree with loud n low. The t1i is a great camera. It is a midlevel slr and shoots 1080p vs the 720p of the t3. Used the t1i can be had for around 400-470. I found a kiss x3 which is the Japanese t1i, body only, for 465 at keh.com. You would need to buy a separate lens and that may run over your 500 range. Look up on CL and see if someone is selling a kit local and check overstocks and closeouts and may be able to find a new kit cheap. I suggested the t3 because it can be had new and is a solid camera. In all honesty, I am biased for canons since I shoot a 60d or the older 30d almost daily. I would be tempted to buy a used T1i over a T3 if you were interested in going that way.

Photography like car audio is not cheap hobby to be in. That said if I were looking in that range I would look at this http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/753766-REG/Canon_5757B002_EOS_Rebel_T3_Digital.html The canon T3 is a solid entry level slr that does shoot hd video. The 7d would be a better choice for video but cost twice as much so in your budget the T3 is what I would look at. If you want to see video made with it get on vimeo and search canon T3 and check out the 60d as well. Since it is an slr you can buy more lenses as you get money so you can have a wider angle or more telephoto.

I agree with what N8 says. I have never worked with the vw's using the sensor I have worked on plenty of the mercedes that use a similar set up to what you describe. The answer for them is use an oem approved replacement. On those it is limited pretty much to either mercedes original or wagner thermo quiets and not a whole lot of difference in price. So I would put in an approved pad and take back the ones without the sensor.