deathcards

? that also changes vehicle to vehicle which atrend enclosure? there is no perfect box for any sub that i know of

Learn to flex. Buy both!

Working at an express lube where customers don't know how to even put it on. I understand how it definitely could. Also, don't you just love when they cake the shit on (nothing like a hand full while doing a rotate). Nobody knows the proper procedure of putting it on; you clean your tires, put it on, and then wipe the excess off. Of course with good product.

while i agree with slow, I believe you should go with the two 12 till you get some power I have two x15's they laugh at my sk2500

Really thought this would be on that list... never mind it says wax. if you looking for a ceramic sealant meguiars just came out with m27. https://www.meguiars.com/professional/products/meguiar-s-m27-hybrid-ceramic-sealant-si02-ceramic-paint-sealant-m2701-1

Get us some dimensions! So we can toss out suggestions.

This will be an interesting subject since it is similar in a way to meade's tahoe where the port compression is 'supersonic'. (correct me if i am wrong) So you don't hear the port compression/chuffing, but with that being said believe he was tuned quite a bit higher than 13 Hz. I also believe enclosure design will play a big part in it and if you get the chance read into environmental distortion.

The AMM1 will make more sense with the larger amplifiers since it takes the resistance of the coil during play time in the enclosure and will show a more true wattage the subwoofer is actually seeing.

Gotta agree rattles and road noise will kill a lot of sound.

i see your amp is secured to the box is the box secured to the vehicle somehow? or are you using the paperweight method (i am guilty of this) Also that raptor cap i believe maybe more of a damper on things there is only so many capacitors that actually work.

i would pull them out and inspect the spiders where it attaches to the cone. also check impedance with multi-meter.

you can try to reduce the space in the box, but i would honestly just build a new box there are a few members that design boxes on here. Also try the old box if you can, you can sometimes get more of an idea of what the sub would like in the vehicle. I had a 12 that like my impala but not so much my yukon because of the box. and don't give it the nuts this is an experiment procedure choose a volume and do a before and after

do you have both power and grounds hooked up? i would guess 1800-2000 watt amp at 1 ohm its overrated a bit if its like the old rubicon it did descent but did not hit claimed numbers. edit dyslexic text

wow lots of reading on f150s I have read seat switches being pushed by seat covers. A bad diode in alternators causing a draw when off. Shifter interlock boards going bad so the computer can't tell its in park even though physically it is. This one seems very intermittent and hard to track down. Rear view camera and trail hitch harnesses can corrode and cause a draw. One person had a bad fog light switch causing a draw even though the fog lights weren't on. some food for thought on your battery also love that meaty profile on your rims.