Bakerman

Yeah, i tried it yesterday. It gives me a grainy video, with the audio lagging behind.

But to the guys reading, I never did figure it out. The guy who had this system came by one day while I was sleeping (I work night shift) and thats the last time I've seen him...even though he lives a block down the street. My guess is either he figured I fucked it up, or got someone else in town to get it working. Oh well...

I never tried bypassing the fuse, but I probably should have. The ends of the wires were all clean though...free of corrosion. And the first two fuse holders we used were ones where you just stick the stripped wire in and tighten down the screw, but the one we used from my ride were the kind that the wire has to have a ring terminal on the end. And there is no cap or extra batt in the back. Just wire, amp, and subs.

So, the other day I went out and dropped a few hundred on a new camera so that I could get some more Youtube footage. Well, the camera saves the vids as an ACVHD or .MTS file. I've downloaded several .MTS editors and converters, but I always end up with the same problem. The end footage, whether converted, or edited, always loses its 1080p quality, and the result is a grainy or laggy video. Does anyone know a fix to this without spending a buttload of $ on software?

Like stated before, I've changed the fuse holder, several times. Still same problem. The only thing I haven't done was bypass the fuse and just use the wire. And I did not want to do this because the guy who has the system is real inexperienced, and tends to try to work on shit himself. I take out fuse, he cuts a wire, truck burns up and its my fault because i wired it up. But, next time he comes by, I will just bypass the fuse temp. and see what kinda voltage I am getting. If its still the 1.6v then there is something wrong with that wire...I will just donate some of mine to the cause and get him beating.

This was my reasoning...but there were no signs of heat damage ANYWHERE...which is why I am dumbfounded. I tried 3 different fuse holders and 4 different fuses...all had the same problem.

You sir are correct

That is what I was thinking in the back of my mind. Because he's got no heat or fire, so i can't be shorted out. And its getting a little voltage, so something somewhere on the wire is still connected.

Yeah bro...you always need a fuse.

Okay, so this guy I have never met before dropped by my house to the other day to ask for some help on his system wiring. He told me straight up he didn't really have a clue, and wanted me to check over everything. Well, of course, he had the ol' self tapper for a ground, and the power/ground inputs on the amp were Y'd and wrapped around the screw, and simple noobie mistakes like that. So, me being so helpful, fixed all his wiring...put some o-rings on his ground wire and found a suitable ground, put some spade connectors on his amp inputs, and put them in correctly. BUT, his amp would not power on, so I grabbed the trusty DMM. With the car running, his remote wire was seeing about 13.5v. But his main power input at the amp was only showing about 1.6v. So I went under the hood, and started checking there. I used the battery ground, and tapped my DMM power directly into the main power wire at the battery, and it said 13.5v. When i checked the power on the battery side of the inline fuse, it was still 13.5v. But when I went to the amp side of his inline, it dropped to 1.6v. Thinking the fuse had went chuck norris on me, i changed it...and this particular fuse holder used the blade type fuses. But to no avail, I still had 1.6v. He had a spare inline fuse, with a completely different fuse in it, not blown. This was the kind that uses a glass fuse. So I completely changed out the inline, and this still didn't fix the problem. So now I'm getting frustrated. I actually take a working fuse holder and fuse from my ride, and install it on his...but it was still showing 1.6v. I have no idea what the problem could be. I had assumed maybe he had a short between his fuse and his amp, but upon visual inspection, i coudln't see any burn marks, or burnt insulation on the wire. And the guy told me he had not smelled any kind of smoke or burning smells at all. Hopefully someone knows something about this without me having to completely run another power wire for this guy. EDIT: I kinda feel like it is my fault it stopped working, because before I started wiring, the amp was actually working. When he would turn the system up, the amp would completely shut off, but that was due to his faulty ground. So I assumed by cleaning up his ground and amp inputs, it would solve the issue...but now it will not turn on at all. The only time I touched the power wire was when I put a spade connector on it so that it could properly fit in his amp input...but when I did this, I had removed the fuse, so it had no power, therefore was unable to short out while I was working on it.

Alot of people hate, but the type R's i used to have did amazingly well. And I've since upgraded to serious equipment, so I know good speakers. But, like he said, he's not asking about equipment, just box designs. I believe the first design will give you the least cancellation...but at the same time, idk shit about bandpass boxes, so don't listen to me.

Hey man...I got an AQ2200 that has not even been removed from the box. Never had any power or anything. Bought it as a second amp, and haven't used it. PM me if interested.

Yes...challenge accepted. Hopefully my recones will be together this by this weekend, and we can get my zx3 bumpin. I've got two 18" Fi BTLs on 4 AQ2200's. So, we might can compete...lol

Does your "bass knob" use coaxial cable like in the link above, or does it use the kind that looks like telephone cord?