Bakerman

Best ground is to the frame of the vehicle, or directly to a battery negative post if you can reach it.

Basically, it's just two seperate boxes that share a top and bottom. Kinda like the cadilac that meade works on. But I'm sealing it off in my tahoe, alot of fiberglassin, and making it into a beast of a wall. I got it tuned right at 32hz, and once it's finished i'm hoping it will be a beast!

These are my designs i did on my wall. Similar to yours, but not a bandpass. Just don't steal my Ideas, lol! Also, the first picture shows the bracing and port, the second is a look at the wall straight on, and the last shows the second side, without bracing and a port, so you can just see the size of it.

Yep...i don't get it...wouldn't it be cheaper, or at least a lot less hassle and quicker to sell his current, and buy a new 12"?

I thought he was cuttin out like a 3d flame, and I'm all like "shit, i could do that" until he popped that MoFo out, and I was like "holy shit"

Ussually for people with normal setups, as in no amp or subs...just to add a little bass in their mids...but even then it ussually clips.

OOOooooh...my bad. I guess I need to read better next time. I apologize.

Either the kodak or the flip ultra hd. the flip ultra hd get the same 60fps as the kodak, but i use a flip slide, which is 30fps...it gives a wave effect on your flex, which i like alot.

I'm just putting in his deminsions...but I don't understand what you mean by 4.6 port per cube. I see what its reffering to on the calculator, but how does this effect the box?

Or, you could just buy a smaller port...but by my calculations, your box is actually 6.51ft3. So in order to tune this to 34.5hz with a 6" port, im showing you need a port of 5.58" long. But, if torres is wrong, you can always just reduce the diameter of your port, that will allow you to shorten it to keep the same tuning.

Some companies lie to get you to buy there product. Hell, and aq1200 is in the $250 price range, but it can do well over 1500wRMs @ 1ohm...and other companies do this backwards...to make you think the way you are. If it does a solid 1500wRMS, i'd be suprised. But it is a class D, so it might be able to, but I doubt it. I wouldn't put my money on it.

not trying to bash you. but its rms rated at 1500? kinda tru...heres the specs HFi Series Mono-Channel Car Amplifier RMS Power Handling @ 4 Ohms: 500 watts x 1 RMS Power Handling @ 2 Ohms: 1000 watts x 1 RMS Power Handling @ 1 Ohms: 1500 watts x 1 And here's the link if you don't believe me It has several different ratings at different ohms... EDIT: Plus, its hifonics. Not bashing, i'm running hifonics in my mids and highs, but i don't think it will get 1500RMS on 1ohm

Yeah, you gotta look at brand name, and mainly RMS ratings, and how many channels, what impedance, etc. It all factors to pricing. Best advice, get an equal quality of woofer, head unit and amp. You can have $10,000 tied up in head unit and speakers, but if you have a $100 amp, its gonna sound like a $100 system.

Ebay has classifieds? Holy shit, I'm on it!

That's not how efficiency works. If an amp is 60% efficient and is rated to put out 100 watts @ 4 ohms per channel, it means that 100 watts @ 4 ohms per channel is 60% of the current that it draws. You will get the output out of the amp regardless of the efficiency, however a less efficient amp will have to draw MORE power to make the same power. Edit: Feel like clarifying with an easy to understand example. Say you have a sub amp rated to do 1000 watts @ 1 ohm, but it is only 50% efficient. That does NOT mean you will only get 500 watts out of the amp. That means the amp has to draw 2000 watts worth of power to send 1000 watts to your sub. The other 1000 watts is basically lost as heat. Im glad u clarified that...i been thinking it backwards all this time...

Zeus Series 4/3/2-Channel Car Amplifier RMS Power Handling @ 4 Ohms: 150 watts x 4 RMS Power Handling @ 2 Ohms: 300 watts x 4 Bridged Power Handling @ 4 Ohms: 600 watts x 2 EDIT: And it comes with a bass knob...so if its distorting at 300w, it should be safe to turn it down with the knob right?

Its a 4channel, and I have two right drivers, and two left all at 4ohms. If i use the 4 ohms, one driver to each output. If I go with 2ohms, two drivers to one output, wired in parallell. Brings it down to 2ohms, and I have two free channels for more drivers. And the speakers I'm using are hifonics zxi6.5c THat won't actually change anything. 300 watts/2 speakers is still 150 watts a speaker. and the speakers you said you are using are a component set, are you talking about using the whole set or just the 6.5 woofer? The total power handling for the set is 100 watts, the power handling for each speaker is lower. I'm using the whole component set, but they wire into an electric XO...the XO only has one input, and it is at 4ohms...so it only has 1 set of wires from the amp...

Its a 4channel, and I have two right drivers, and two left all at 4ohms. If i use the 4 ohms, one driver to each output. If I go with 2ohms, two drivers to one output, wired in parallell. Brings it down to 2ohms, and I have two free channels for more drivers. And the speakers I'm using are hifonics zxi6.5c

I correct myself...the speakers are 250w RMS, so at 2ohms, i would be 50w over power, but at 4ohms, im underpowered...is it safe to go just 50w over RMS? I know you're not supposed to, but in all honesty, will it seriously fry the speakers?

Of course...these amps are extremely underated, and I know people who run them on .5 ohms daily. But as for exact RMS numbers, I couldn't tell you. I know the aq2200 @ .5 ohms was puttin out around 4100watts

Gotta set of mid drivers that are rated at 100w RMS. My amp is puttin out 150w RMS at 4ohms, and 300w RMS at 2ohms. Would it be safe to wire it to 2ohms, or hell, even 4ohms?

Yes...pictures baby...ill give you 50 bucks for it

He worked hard, and let bad things take over his life. he's good enough to admit it, and now he's working even harder to get his life back in order. Any haters are just jealous that he got the break they could never get.

Next post will be how to remove a 16 penny nail from my rca input cause I super glued in there. Try the screw method. That thing cant be stuck in there that bad. I laughed so FN hard at this, even though it was bashing on me...lol. But, it is a method that works, if you have patience and steady hands.

take a needle, head of a small nail, etc and dab it in a light amount of some super glue...hold it to the end of the stuck piece for about a min, then pull it out...this is how I fix em...but don't use alot or you could clog it up