Crandis16

lol, my old room mate had an alero with DC 4XL m1 with 3k wrms. it was a trunk build. I was told it metered 145 in comp. stick around and get ideas here, that's my best advice

If the alt is bad then I will bite the bullet and get a HO alt like I planned on doing anyway. but this adjustable voltage... I don't know much about alts. does it let you choose if you're running a 14.4 or 16v system?

the 2011 and 2010 model are differenthttp://www.crutchfie...x500.1&skipvs=T Edit: I bought this originally thinking that it was 500wrms at 2ohms so I bought a sub that was dual 4.... just recently found out it was the 2010 model that does 275wrms @ 2ohms and 500wrms @ 1ohm

you've gotta get more bassheads in Israel man lol. that's good shit though, keep it up

Upgrading systems currently mono subwoofer amplifier 140 watts RMS x 1 at 4 ohms (275 watts RMS x 1 at 2 ohms) 500 watts RMS x 1 at 1 ohm CEA-2006 compliant Class D amp technology variable low-pass filter (50-200 Hz, 18 dB/octave) selectable bass boost (0, 9 dB at 40 Hz) variable subsonic filter (10-30 Hz, 18 dB/octave) frequency response: 20-200 Hz preamp and speaker-level inputs (adapter required for speaker-level inputs) 4-gauge power and ground leads recommended — wiring and hardware not included with amplifier includes ZXRC wired remote control with 20-foot cable fuse rating: 30A x 2 10-3/8"W x 2-3/16"H x 8-3/8"D Asking only $100 shipped to lower 48

The DMM that I have doesn't have a very fast response time, but I saw it dip down to 10 and 11 when revving the engine. at idle it stayed around upper 12s lower 13s

no accessories. I usually just drive with the window down at all times lol. I'll look into it. it might be time for a HO alternator!!! I'll give that a try now actually and get back to you

I understand what you're saying, but how would the head unit relate the the lights dimming? I haven't seen any problems in the system yet because I don't think the fluctuation is noticable yet through the speakers. I didn't see this problem before it went into the shop... I will call them on monday when they are open You added an aftermarket HU and light dimming resulted...? An aftermartket HU will have a much bigger amp internal than factory. Therefore it will draw more power from the fuseblock. If the factory wiring is aimed at factory then it will probably be smaller than necessary. Correct me if I'm off but is sounds feasible. You may not notice the fluctuation through the speakers because there isn't enough power to cause noticeable distortion at the moment but there is enough to cause visual effects through the lights. No, I've had the head unit and speakers installed in the car for almost a year now on this is the first I've seen the problem. When I had my 500 watt sub amp amp installed too (pre-timing belt replacement) It wasn't seeing this problem. It wasn't until the battery had died 2 times and it had gone into the shop for work that I saw this problem. But I get what you're saying, I'm just not convinced that that's the problem, seeing as I have had the head unit and speakers for a year and haven't had a problem like this. I'll give this a shot though, I never really thought about the size of the wiring harness wires being a problem but I guess it can be an issue

I understand what you're saying, but how would the head unit relate the the lights dimming? I haven't seen any problems in the system yet because I don't think the fluctuation is noticable yet through the speakers. I didn't see this problem before it went into the shop... I will call them on monday when they are open

So I was able to get a vid showing the dimming lights in my car. there is clearly a fluctuating 12v problem and I had the battery checked at the shop. The battery sits at 13.8 volts when the car is off Here is a video of what's happening. You see it more in the interior light than the head lights but it is visible in the head lights in person Only happens when I rev the engine

lol, I fixed it... well the shop fixed it. the idler pully got jammed up and needed replaced. this caused the timing belt to breakI was getting fuel. I could hear the fuel pump. Spark plugs were sparking. Wouldn't turn over but it runs better than it did before it died.

yes yes yes. so much time and effort and attention to the finest of details

I KID, I KID!!!

I've got a build coming up after dinner tonight. Can I get a price quote for 4 lvl NOM 12's to 16504

I have also heard that port on the side is louder than in the middle if you're going for SPL, but I have no science or experience to back this up. I have a couple friends who have been in the bass game much longer than me and I usually consult them for any questions. pics would be nice

sub firing towards the back should be louder than firing up, but I feel if the port is that close to the trunk then I don't think it would be as loud, but I may be wrong

If my fellow penn staters complain then they should just transfer to a completely different college. I know many of my friends were pissed about Jo Pa being fired, but he didn't follow protocol for something like that situation.

I go to Penn State.... I really don't care, I think he's a fuck and he deserves what's coming to him

expect to wait lol, I did the same thing a couple weeks ago and I'm still waiting for it to ship lol. They MIGHT be out of stock because of some big orders but who knows..... so ya wanna send those xl's out my way

dayummmmmmmm those are sexy as hell. Just curious here, what's the difference between the lvl sex line and the neos that you have there? i apologize for being a n00b lol

A little update... the battery shouldn't be the problem. When the car is off it reads 12.83 volts. I didn't have it checked when it was running though, I feel like the battery is fine though and it's something else that isn't being nice to the electrical. I'm going to call the shop up and tell them of my problem, because they probably did something to cause this to happen because it didn't do this before it went into the shop

Y-splitters are downright your cheapest option. If you decide to go with Y-splitters then I think you would have to turn of the LPF on the head unit and set that through the amplifier.... not 100% sure so anyone correct me because I'm not sure if that's how the low pass filter works. but yea, Y-splitters, one splitter will be left and one will be right. simple. you don't need to buy 4 y-splitters because you only have 2 rca connections on your head unit

I have been wondering the same except for a port forward sub forward box...is it best like this? _______________ I I _ I I I U I I_I_____________I or this ______________ I I _ I I I U I I_I____________I _ the U is the sub lol Edit: this looked good when I made it in editor port forward sub forward, would the sub be better further away from port or closer lol, thanks in advance

I know headliner is backed with a foam lol... I just thought that the most common way of re-doing a headliner was to buy the material then a foam backing for it. foam-backed material sounds SO much easier haha. I want to redo mine.... just another project waiting to happen lol