Derrick824

uber fial

He won't need a lot of port area with those subs since they won't be moving a lot of air.

Not all bass knobs are the same. Buy one that's specific for your amp.

I've received your two PMs but it won't let me reply to you. Says your not setup to receive PMs. Turn your PM box on & I'll shoot ya some pics.

It's 39" wide x 19.5" tall x 32" deep. The three 18" box is 49" wide x 19" tall x 33" deep.

The ports are completely done & mounted and the box itself is assembled. I had pics but after an issue with my memory card they all got deleted. Won't be able to get back on this til Monday. Then all the sub holes will get cut, corner bracing will be added, and all thread bracing installed.

32hz

It will be done and playing for Nspl finals next weekend. Liquid Nails. Roughed the pvc up with some 80grit and a wire brush first. I also used a 1/2" roundover on the inside of the wood to give a little extra groove to get the glue down in there.

Still not done yet. Gotta flush this side then take the round over to it. Want to let the glue set overnight then I'll finish everything up tomorrow.

Got a good bit of work done today. Here's the pics.

I have two boxes that won't ever be used again. Local pick up only. I'm located in Sumter, SC. This box is for two 18" subs. It was built for a Dodge Magnum. It is 10ft net volume with four 6" ports tuned to 36hz. It will include the four 6" psp ports that are installed. It will not include any speaker wire. Price is $120 obo. This box is for three 18" subs. It was built for a GMC Yukon. It is 15ft net volume with six 6" ports tuned to 32hz. Price is $75.

You would be wasting your time getting a second amp unless you ran them @ 0.5ohm each. Two amps @ 2ohm each will do the same as a single amp @ 1ohm. I'm not familiar with those exact batteries but it seems like you have a very good electrical setup. Depending on the specs of those batteries you should be able to play of saz-3500s @ 0.5ohm just fine.

I have the green Explorer. The Excursion is my brother.

There's a zillion different ways you could run the wires and lots of different grounding points in a vehicle. Where exactly will you be grounding your equipment in the rear of the vehicle? The two main choices are body or frame. In my Yukon all my stuff was grounded to the body so under the hood I upgraded the ground to the body. If you're gonna be grounding to the frame then upgrade your ground to the frame.

All you do is clamp the two sides together before assembly so that the bearing rides on the other side. When doing a project like this & you want both sides to match it's a good idea to free hand the first side then use it as a template to cut the other side using a flush bit.

There's a factory ground located on the firewall. Run a larger ground wire from the battery to there. Run your engine ground to the bolt on the side of the alternator bracket.

Don't take stereo advice from an auto parts store.

You'll do better with 4 small amps rather than 2 big ones.

Gee, would of never thought of that. How about wait on the finished product before knit picking it? kthnx

Shoe horn, ca glue, duct tape, and a big f'ing hammer.

I'm awaiting payment from someone but haven't heard back from them and haven't received payment yet. If I don't see their payment tomorrow it'll go to the next person that PMed me.

The NS plays the lows exceptionally well for an "spl" sub.

Hahaha funny stuff. The bass was so violent it tripped the vehicles inertia switch (thought it had been in a wreck) and cut the fuel pump off.