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uhoh_45

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Everything posted by uhoh_45

  1. Waiting on the sub to come in from T3, was suppose to be here 2 wks. ago, but we all know how that goes. Need to have to sub so I can ensure the ports don't rub against the motor. and to make my top baffle so I can countersink the sub. gay
  2. are you sure you wired the subs up right?? i know with my buddys old xplode i wired it down to .35 and it didnt go into protect or anything instead it just burnt my finger when i went to touch it
  3. my head hurts after this thread
  4. yeah my brother works at a welding shop and so im going get him to order me the steel cause they get it for dirt cheap and i yeah carriage bolts are a good idea either way im planning on welding the nuts to the bolts to keep them there for good i'm sure i'll figure it out when i get there im going over boilermakers thread and see hes using 1.5 x 1.5 square tube and am wondering if thats the way to go or should i go with angle
  5. fuck didnt even think of carriage bolts on the side walls would work great but not so much for top and bottom/ back it would be a bitch to do
  6. oh i thought you said lock nut not lock washer my bad and if boilermaker you see this i'm hoping you chime in with how you did your wall
  7. yeah welded nuts to the frame and some bolts going into that would work well too i dont like lock washers as when you put some heat to them the rubber melts and there ruined i learned about flexlock nuts which are same as lock nuts but without rubber i believe they have a tapered end which keeps tension on bolt
  8. for the side walls i would be doing it like that bolt head inside the box and nut outside where i can get to them from outside for the top/bottoms i'm thinking having the bolts going from the top and countersinking nuts from bottom side under the wood i really wont have to use to many bolts to secure the wood if i were to use only 9 bolts 3 rows of 3 i should be able to keep the wood up to allow glue to dry
  9. i was thinking something similar to that minus the t nuts just normal allthread/ bolts bolt from outside frame into car going into wood with a recessed nut/washer then weld the nut to keep it there for good and then putting second layer ontop of that of .5" to cover up nuts
  10. weird my magnets are roughly 10" round so i donno how they plan on making an apx/xx 8 unless its new neo they were talking about and if you dont mind can you answer my question in your 300 log
  11. yeah im thinking of using some sort of loctite pl adhesive such as pl 375 and yeah i love my apx and apxxs so far i have 2 apx 12s 5 apxx 15s and 1 apx 18 and i love them all all i need now is a pair of 10s and i'll be set haha
  12. i figured if i could drill holes and then weld some nuts to bottom of angle iron and use bolts to secure it with some sort of epoxy and i'll be using 4 apxx 15s and 2 cresendo 5500ds roughly 12k power on tap for now and then later on i would like 4 55000ds one per sub next to apx 18 that is in the car right now yeah thats what i'm wondering what type of glue/epoxy i would need to use to get it to be secure
  13. i'm going to be building a steel framed wall in the lumina sometime in the near future and was wondering how all you who have done so attached the wood to the steel frame?? just normal self tapping screws or what i will be using angle iron for the frame welded to the vehicle and then single layer of wood on inside to help keep weight down and maximize space or would pl400 glued to wood and frame be ok with couple bolts through the wood into the steel??
  14. skylar ray knows his shit and has alot of XP i'd advise against arguing with him/his logic
  15. I have NEVER heard of anyone using a 1:1 ratio. usually has do with space restriction
  16. my wall was 1:3 and i usually use 1:2 for daily
  17. would do 2 15s port/sub forward port driver side subs passenger
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