SwaggerWagon

Ahh makes sense! Okay, so if you complete the steps I posted above, you should get what I'm going to call initial port length, and it should be equal to the physical port length. In other words, physical length is length before it bends

I can write up a formula for it if you want, and u can just plug in the numbers. This is, of course, assuming I'm right about everything here.

Alright. It means it's going to have to split to the left and right when it gets to the back wall. And go by what is in the "port length" box if I'm not mistaken. That's how I calculated it to be. And what you do is; Take the width of the port from the "Port Demensions" "width" box, and divide it in half. Now, subtract that from the over all length of the port (the "port dimensions" "length" box). Now make the port start at the front of the box, and go back so that it is as long as the difference you just calculated. Now, take this length and subtract it from the overall length, and divide by two. Starting in the center where the port ends, measure to the left and right for the most recently calculated distance. It's long but that's how I did it to make sure the port will be the proper length.

Well, looking at what it told me, I'm not really sure. What did you put in the "port length" box? I did the manual calculations before I put everything in Torres' calc, so I'm making mine 32 inches long. And when you say two common walls, will you have a port on each side? Mine is going to be in center of the box

What size shirts did you get? I also way about 150 lbs.

Does anyone think this will be too shallow and wide??

So here are the final demensions for my new box. I'm gonna start this weekend for sure! This is my first box, so any suggestions or advice on building would be great. I'm not sure about bracing yet, other than 45* corners, and corner inserts under baffle (there will be a double baffle, but I'm just going to add a sheet of MDF to the existing baffle to make the subs flush). The photobucket album shows the history of the car so far (not much, but it's my first system/second car).

Sorry for all the questions, but this is all being done by hand now since my brother's left and I don't have a comp.

Okay. I'll sit down and adjust some things. But quick question; if I put a port in the center to the back and have to bend it to the left and right (to make a "T"), do the extensions along the back wall need to be half the width of the port coming to the front?

The calc is putting port area at 59.4 in2, and 3.5 ft3 net. They're each going to see 700 rms of clean power. Is this still too big?

Ahh. Thx! I'll c if I cn grab the comp from my bro for a few more minutes. He's doing HW..fml

I have use of my brother's computer for a few minutes while he's over, and here is what I've come up with as far as box design. I just need some opinions to make sure this is all correct so I can start cutting tomorrow. I did most of the leg work by hand and just entered what I wanted in the box calc (thanks Torres!). Hopefully This will work, as I'm putting two DC Level 3 12s in it. The subs will be mounted on top of the box, each 1" from the left and right edges. The port walls go back 13.3" into the box, then extend 8.15" in either direction. Is this the propper way to measure port length when designe this way? I wish I could give a sketch of what it will look like. Edit: apparently I don't know how to post a picture..soo, crap. I can email a screenshot of the box calc. Edit #2: here's what I entered in the box calc: Outer dimensions Height: 15 Width: 46.5 Depth: 17 Port Dimensions Height: 13.5 Width: 4.4 Length: 34 Miscellaneous Woofer displacement: .3 Baffle thickness: .75 # of common port walls: 2 Check sub upward box desired net volume: 3.5

What J. reed said; rural = lighter I have 3% all the way around with a visor, and have no problems. On these WV Mountain roads at night on ski trips I can't see ish, but otherwise I love it. Wouldn't go without it. Also interior color can make it lighter or darker. I have a Honda Pilot with a gray interior and it seems darker than if I had a tan leather interior. That's just my experience though

I tried what you're friend is doing and about 4 months later, without new door speakers, I'm around $3K deep with just HU and amps/subs. I would seriously try to convince your friend to save up and like Soundman said, buy certain components at a time. It will definitely be worth it.

 ^^^

*lighter flick* *inhale* "this one's for Decaf"

You should also know that a box that fits the subwoofer's space requirements can make all the difference in the world. There are tons of threads and members on this forum who know a lot more about boxes than me, so search for some who can possibly help you decide which box size will work for your subs.

Then sealed is the way to go. The box will be a little bigger, but much louder. I'd recommend tuning the box to 32-34 hz. That seems to be the consensus.

Do you want people to hear you coming from 5 blocks away? And what type(s) of music do you listen to? Edit: didn't see the more recent posts when writing this. What was said about the sealed box is good. It'll give you what I think you want. And in all honesty it's not too terrible to build a sealed box.

Since you guys have been so helpful, maybe you can help with something else seemingly trivial..right now I have downgraded and have completely stock electrical. No HO alt or nice batt, or even big 3. I don't have any dimming now, but what can I expect once I'm running about 1400 watts rms with ~4000 watt peaks? And how can I measure voltage drop with my dmm? I just got one today from walley world

Awesome! Thanks a ton! This is by far the most helpful car audio forum on the web.

Alright. I'll manually adjust the calculations when I decide what bracing to use. I'll probably use wooden rods too, seeing as how they're probably the easiest to add.

Haha I think I may. Just gotta go pick up the mdf and get to work. I'll let you know how things go. Any tips on construction?

Nice vid! Man these are gonna destroy my pilot haha. I get good windshield flex with the crappy p2S I have now at 412 watts rms

Man that all looks like it's going well! Personally I think the desing is a good one. I've got a friend with two level 4 15s and a similar design, just 6 cubes net and he hits upper 140s with just music. It's solid as a rock too.