Kdub26

just be mindful if you build it to Skar specs, because itll probably sound funny. and i wouldnt hammer on it and tear up the pioneers. then again, the specs might not be that far apart. i havent looked at the skar's, so im not 100% sure

^^^ x2. probably wont hit as hard? Skars im guessing have bigger specs. i havent done the research.

in that case, i would say wall it with the 6. then when you swap to Skar, clam it. since the subs are temporary. just dont spend too much time and money with a temporary setup

my thoughts exactly. i like clams.

i would say its preference. but, also it depends on what the enclosures that the subs need. you said you're gonna upgrade as you move along, are you gonna change woofers? or keep them and just upgrade electrical as you go? if you change woofers, you'll probably have to change the box

i would be cussing myself out for a week straight. not sure if the internals would hold up. i dont drop amps on a normal basis to know the only sure fire way would be to open up the amp and check everything. but there's usually a warning that if you open the amp, it'll void the warranty. other than that, i would say to find a friend or someone with a system and hook it up to their vehicle and see if it works

You dont NEED a crossover, it would be nice to have one but if money is an issue you can purchase bass blockers for the tweeters plain and simple. Plus their cheap you simply connect one end to the pos terminal and the other end attaches to your speaker wire and it will block any unwanted frequencies. yes, bass blockers were my next purchase. money isnt an ISSUE, just trying to be financially smart, and buy whats needed first. im not trying to wipe out my bank account on everything. but, just trying to utalize what i have, and buy a little at a time. i plan on getting bass blockers, and also some new battery terminals from darvex.

well, not so much as trying to "solve" the problem with an EQ, just that its in the plans. but thats why i am leaning on just running the tweets off the amp, to get the freq right for them. plus, im going to be underpowering them anyways.

i do plan on getting a new amp. since, i have no clue whatsoever about wattage, ohm stable, brand, any of that. this amp was practically given to me, so im just trying to use it. and also i plan on getting a DD-1 as well. my overal goal is to get the highs, higher, without having to turn my volume all the way up. so, if need be, for now, i can put just the tweets on the amp, and run the mids off of the h/u. but, ideally, what i WANT, is to down the loads down to 4ohm, then run both mids and tweets off of the amp. now, i know i wont get a great freq since i dont have a crossover for now. but, i do plan on getting a Clarion EQ to help with that. but i dont have a specific freq that i want, i just want the sound to be more crisp without having to keep turning my volume knob.

Yes you can drop the seleniums down to 4 ohms just run pos to pos and neg to neg on each speaker terminal and then from one of the speakers run pos to neg on the amp so i reads them at 4 ohms. As for the tweets if those are 8 ohms as well I believe you can do the same and bring them down to 4 ohms. thats EXACTLY how i pictured it, just wanted to double check. i figured thats why they have two terminals each, to bring the load down to 4ohms. just trying to squeeze the power out of this amp that i have

ehh, no crossover for now. and actually, after i posted this, i kinda smacked myself in the face, and decided that i should just run the tweeters only off of them amp. and just have the 6w4p's coming off of the H/U

dang. i remember watching you rebuild the Hoe in your garage with pod lights but, im curious what you have in store

so, i just got in my selenium 6w4p's (2 of them) and senenium st200 (also 2 of them). now, as many of you know, they are an 8ohm load. with the 6w4p's, i noticed two POS terminals, and two NEG terminals on each speaker. IF it is possible to drop the load down to 4ohm, that would be GREAT. and also how i should run my speaker wires. since, i have a "mystery amp" (2 channel) that i posted a thread about, trying to get specs on, and coming to a general conclusion that its less than 300 watts. secondly: the ST200's only have one POS and one NEG terminal on them, if it also possbile to drop them down to 4ohms, that would be great as well. this is my first pro audio setup but, im just trying make sure that i do it right, since i paid good money for them. i have pics, if anybody needs them to help with an answer.

explain I had this same channel running my mtx and it sounded just fine. But on these sa8s it sounds like they are bottoming out how long have you been running the setup with the SA8's? Since today getting rid of that amp seems to be the ONLY thing to do right now. i know its all you have for now, but dont risk burning up decent equipment with a faulty amp.

explain I had this same channel running my mtx and it sounded just fine. But on these sa8s it sounds like they are bottoming out how long have you been running the setup with the SA8's?

IMO - i could live without bass until i got an amp that fully works, versus possibly messing up decent subs with a broken/cheap amp

oops. missed that part. i was just skimming. but i agree, just get an amp that works.

just dark. cant see anything on the vid

you know, if the right section was found in the first place, this arguement wouldnt have even came about. somehow the SOTM section was found, and the members builds are just as easy to find. even if you just walked onto the forum

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/forum/13-member-rides-%26-builds-show-off-your-whip-show-off-your-system/ now not to be a a** but you can't look around some?

What do you mean? It has no SMD (Surface Mount Design) parts on it. It's most likely around 10 years old... maybe older. It looks like a low end brand like Legacy, Pyramid, etc. My guess is Legacy! EDIT: I also just noticed that it only has 4 MOSFETS for the power section and 4 for the output section. The fact that it only has 8 total FETS, 1 small transformer, and 2 small capacitors means that it's not going to do a whole lot. I can tell you right now that 4gauge inputs weren't necessary for that amp. I would search any numbers on the PCB (Printed Circuit Board) through Google and see if something comes up. On a side note, someone above said it only has a 20-amp fuse. Yes it currently does, but the images don't show enough to assume that the fuse is even the correct size. that is correct, no surface designs, model number, brand name, not even country of production. also, the note of the fuse possibly being incorrect, meaning that it may be producing LESS of the guessed 250-300watts?

i said the same thing, everything appearded to be in near perfect condition, and i was VERY surprised since the case of the amp told a different story

soundstream would be nice. the logo area doesnt look professional though. its just four holes and theres some old adhesive residue in a square/rect. shape

yeah seeing the impedance on them, i SHOULD be underpowering them. thats why i was trying to figure out the power rating on the amp, so i could figure in impedance. ill just do the ol' ear trick for now, or at least until i get the mids broken in a tad bit

my volume maxes out at 40, so my "max" is 30. until i find outmy clipping points. which, with this unknown amp, probably wont be that efficent, and will probably clip early. who knows. i just cant wait to get my seleniums in