bkolfo4

You need a 40.1 for $710 shipped.

You selling the BTL's?

If this a system to play music, you better take several measurements at different frequencies to get a better picture of the impedance before you start changing things. . . If you are tuned at 39 Hz, there is going to be a nice peak on each side of the tuning, so 45 Hz is more than likely getting into that peak. Have you measure any other frequencies? Also check your measuring equipment. You already found one problem with the measurements. . .And a series parallel 2 ohm setup should be around 1.5 ohms when measuring DC resistance (what you are measuring with a meter), so maybe the problem with the wire/connections may be a valid concern. It may be more than just the offset of your meter. Brian

Not even close. PM me your zip code, and I will get you dealer info. If you do not have a local dealer, I can sell to you. Brian

It actually will not hurt it to run just one coil. It will only handle half the power, but it will not hurt it. . . What impedance are the voice coils, and what is the minimum impedance rating of the amp? Brian

Unless it has been sprayed down with something, I would bet while you may not hear it non-stop, you would get some type of squeek every now and then when bouncing the RPM's up and down.

It may be getting hot if you are pulling a lot of current at idle. It has thermal protection that will back the voltage down when it gets hot. It does not cool as good when it is not spinning fast. . . You woudl hear the belt if it was slipping. . . BRian

Fi = Internet sales AA = Dealer sales Some of the subs use similar motors, but the soft parts are different, so they are not the same subs. Just look at the descriptions and t/s parameters. . . Brian

Wait a month or so and get the new AA SMD 15's.

Ascendant Audio Chaos http://www.ascendantaudio.com/chaos.php

x2, or you can test fit a 1/4" drill bit in the shaft to se if it fits. more than likely it is a 1/4". For ports - the biggest roundover you can get for your router!!! My router will only hold a 1/2" round over, but I set it a little deep and then sand down the notch it leaves. I end up with about a 5/8"-3/4" round over. You can also add a plate against the inside end of the port and make a round over there. I cut 2 pieces of MDF and make a hole in one the O.D. of the pipe, then the hole the I.D of the pipe in the other with a round over on the edge. Glue them together, attach it to the pipe and you now have a flared port on both ends for very little $$$. That is what I did to these:

I miss my drag truck. Sold it to fund my first big system. . . 413 cuin Big Block Chevy Almost 600 HP TCI Turbo 400 PTC 10" 3800 RPM stall 9" Ford with 31 spline detroit locker, Mosier street axles, 4.11 gears Street legal

Should be a noticable difference - You are comparing a 10" to a 12". Night and Day? What box was the Bl installed in, and what will the LVL4 be in?

(2) AA Mayhem 18" or (2) Fi BTL 18" Or wait and get (2) SMD 18". Do you have 16 cuft gross, or net? If gross, you need quite a bit of room for the port and driver displacement. If that is net, what is the port displacement and tuning? Brian

I have an AudioControl 6-channel Matrix I am not going to use anymore. Just took it out of the van. $85 shipped. Brian

Just FYI. . .It really does not matter if they are getting the same exact amount of power. . . If this is a daily driver, and you have the extra money, go for 4 amps. . .They more than likely are not going to double their power from 1 ohm to 0.5 ohms, so the 4 amps will be more power and less stress on the amps. Or sell the 1500's and get a pair of 3500's.

Daily "loud", or meter loud? Daily loud - vertical port in the middle, subs on each side Meter loud - vertical port driver's side

SOLD!

Sales pending on all 6. Waiting for money from 2 people. If one of them backs out, I will bump the thread.

Really need cash for new subs. . .

These are the temporary subs I had in the van. They are a not a production Fi motor. Machined to fit a BTL recone kit, 12 spoke basket, and the pole vent is plugged. Dual 2 ohm is the only spec I have. They ran for ONE show with each one on a 40.1. They handled the power no problem, but Scott said they were good for around 1500-1800 RMS continuous. I never ran them for more than 30-45 seconds at full power. Just need to get out for what I have in them. $225 each including shipping. Or all 6 for $1200 shipped. That is a great deal for a sub like this. . . Brian

Man be careful. . .he is going to blow that sub only running it on 600 watts RMS. underpowering KILLS subs, and it must sound like crap. . . hahahahahahahahahahahahahahaha

SOLD!

PM me your phone number and what type of sub and I can get you a price. Brian

Good news - Clipping and distortion do not blow speakers. Overpowering does. That is overpowering thermally or mechanically. Clipping increases the RMS value that is associated with the peak voltage, so the RMS power is greater even though the peak voltage has not increased. That is overpowering - the actual clipping is not what kills the speaker. You can have a totally clipped signal and as long as you do not go beyond the driver's thermal or mechanical power limits, it will not hurt it. . . Thinking distortion kills speakers is crazy. Anyone listening to rock music would never be able to keep speakers. . . 95Honda did a big test on clipping effects. Here is a good quote: "Here is the problem. There isn't an argument that a square wave contains more power than a sine of equal voltage amplitude (duh), but what people don't understand is that a sqaure or clipped wave doesn't have any more of a detrimental effect than a sine, of the same power magnitude. This is where the misconception lies. Many think that a speakers that has a 500watt power handling may be destroyed by a 200 watt amplifier driven in to full clipping, which is never the case due to the fact that an amplifier that can produce a 200 watt sine could only produce a 400 watt square wave (assuming the power supply can do this) and this could never cause thermal failure of a loudspeaker truly rated at 500 watts, mechanical failure aside. This is where the misunderstanding lies...." Brian edit - I think part of the clipping, distortion, underpowering kills speakers come from people who might have an 800 watt amp on a 1000 watt speaker (assuming true ratings). They clip the output enough that the RMS output of the amp actually goes beyond 800 watts and beyond 1000 watts. Speaker dies and they say "I blew my speaker from underpowering it." Then someone else says "it was not the underpowering, you had the gain set wrong and clipped it". Clipping caused the overpower condition, but had it been a 300 watt amp and 1000 watt sub, the sub would have survived the clipping. . .