no way in hell you have a whole cubic foot of bracing in there... even if you do... i'm not sure why you need all that bracing. the most i usually use in a box is .2 cubes.
i guess nothing you can do about it now. GL with your box!
It's ironic that you started doing that right after i posted this picture.
I did my baffles like you recommended in the first picture on the first box i ever built and one of them came completely loose. i was only using kicker CVX's on about 600 rms rated power each with bad electrical, so each of them was only seeing maybe 400 watts at best.
I quoted it again as if to say "what he said"
i was also too lazy at the time to state my general agreement with that quote.
but let's not get nit picky hurr.
carry on
number of common port walls = 3 if you're doing a slot.
if you're doing a round port then common port walls = 0
but pick one out of the two. the calculator won't account for both
this is port length. measured down the middle of the port
physical port length is the total length of the inside of the port walls. the straight piece and the bend
try modeling this in sketchup. might help you visualize everything
well shit... gonna have to make the box a little bigger... or step your amp game up a little
with that amp go with this
outer dims
13 tall, 37 wide, 16 deep
slot port w/ 3 common walls
11.5 high, 3.25 wide, 24 deep (20" physical port length)
gives you 15.5 per cube with .05 for bracing
35 hz tuning
try this
outer dims
11 tall, 35 wide, 16 deep
slot port w/ 3 common walls
9.5 high, 3 wide, 26 deep
this accounts for .05 cu ft for bracing
gives you 14.5 sq inches of port per cube
i know you wanted aeros, but this will be a little easier to make