412 CVX

i guess i don't know enough about DC vs AC signals to really argue anything, but is there a way or product out there that might work in this situation? like maybe a household fuse in a surge protector?

i've got a theory and it's probably incredibly wrong seeing that nobody's thought of it before (at least to my knowledge)... but anyways, if fuses are meant to protect amps from drawing too much power, could the same idea be applied to prevent subwoofers from blowing? if some subwoofers blow because they're given too much power, couldn't you (in theory) place a fuse between the amp and the sub to prevent them from seeing too much power? i'm aware that a lot of the time clipping and other factors like box tuning can contribute to a blown subwoofer, and that's one reason why i'm skeptical. i think if this theory worked it would be a decent fail-safe for some applications. anyone else have thoughts or other input on this? attempted diagram: [amp]-----<fuse>-----(woofer)

FI, AQ, AA, DC. SA and DD Possibly, but they might be a little pricey for you

yeah i looked at the website. don't remember seeing the may 14th thing but thanks

this site works pretty well.

any car shows in or near Des Moines Iowa? Car audio shows more specifically...

IN MOST CASES ported will be louder, but when dealing with a driver that isnt round (example: square or oblong) you will get louder with sealed, and he hit it right on the head with the displacement commend, all it really does is add room to the box, yet exposed all of the soft parts to the elements, so unless you have a garaged car and a pretty hefty woofer, i dont recommend going inverted. expand on this theory

lazy bums like me don't know the meaning of the word "search"

in general about how much output are you losing by going sealed vs ported? i know that's a pretty broad question with too many variables, but in this case there's wiggle room for assumptions. just try to give each scenario as equal opportunity as possible. also, what are some pro's and cons of going inverted over non inverted? any special box requirements for inverted?

so i hear kinetik batteries are pretty good too, what sets XS power apart from them?

^^ this guy knows what's up!

2 fi ssd 18's would be a decent match for that amp. to be safe i'd go with the fi Q's since rockford amps are underrated. and as far as the cones go they'd be able to handle dubstep just fine. really the weight difference between the cones is pretty insignificant. woofer cones are made to be lightweight. now if you started getting into the 20"+ range, then there might be a difference, but you shouldn't have to worry about that. now since your shit got broken into last time, save up some money and put a nice security system in there too

actually 2 18's is more cone area than 4 12's. the math: 4(3.14*62) = 452.16 in2 2(3.14*92) = 508.68 in2 now in theory it would seem like the 12's would be more tight and accurate than the other two due to a lighter and smaller cone, but Meade would beg to differ, as would most anyone else with 18's. the most important factor is the install,and more specifically, the box. if you have the room to build a box that will comfortably house the 18's within the manufacturer's specs, then go for it. since the 18's have the most cone area, then they will probably be the loudest in the right box.

this sounds like one shady guy. i wouldn't trust him if i were you the power and ground wire need to be the same size. the amp needs to get rid of just as much power as it does take in. a chain is only as strong as its weakest link. and in your case your power wire might as well be 4awg too. as far as the big 3 goes, if you've got an amp that is using 1/0awg it would definitely be in your best interest to get it done. the stock wires in your car were NOT meant to handle aftermarket audio systems. period. your car's electrical system is also a part of the same chain your amp is on. the wires coming to and from your alternator and battery need to be the same size as the power wire of your amp. the big 3 will ensure that your car's electrical system works optimally. your alternator can charge your battery faster, and your battery can ground more efficiently. you will likely see less headlight dimming, and more power going to your amp when you do it. it's likely going to relieve some stress on your alternator too. now if your headlights still dim after you do this, it's time to look into a better battery!

usually i follow that rule pretty well, but every once in a while you get curious as to what your system can do. i mean it's worked for me so far but knowing your system is capable and has done more in the past makes you wonder why using better speaker wire would make it do less... is it possible that maybe the speaker wire is coming loose? it was a pretty snug fit into the terminals. is it also possible that my ground has possibly come loose and isnt making a good connection because the speakers are shaking it so much?

check the ground and all your connections even if you already did did you mess with the gain at all? i had a kicker zx.850.4 do the same thing and i sent it off and im awaiting a new one turn the gain all the way down and see if it still does it i did turn the gain on the amp down a little bit because it was at full tilt, even though i have the remote bass knob that came with the amp and i use that as well. but recently i turned the amp back to the original settings and it still does that. i'll check my ground even though i doubt it's the problem. could it just be a bad amp? you had the gain FULL tilt?!?!?!? the bass knob is NOT a gain control knob like the AQ or DC amps im suprised you havent blown the subs yet but yea double check everything turn the gain ALL the way down and see what it does if it still does it i would get kicker on the phone again but it could also be your amp do you have warranty? that's how it came and i never bothered messing with it really. i used to have the gain turned all the way up on the amp, all the way up on the remote bass knob, and all the way up on my HU and could play it like that for quite a while. i never smelled coil and the woofers never broke a sweat. my amp never shut off then, and it was noticeably louder than it is now. i mean if it got a lot louder than it used to, then that's a pretty easy fix... i guess i'll revert back to the 16awg and check my grounds sometime this weekend if i can and get back to you, but if anyone thinks of anything else please share you knowledge with meeee! thanks for the help

check the ground and all your connections even if you already did did you mess with the gain at all? i had a kicker zx.850.4 do the same thing and i sent it off and im awaiting a new one turn the gain all the way down and see if it still does it i did turn the gain on the amp down a little bit because it was at full tilt, even though i have the remote bass knob that came with the amp and i use that as well. but recently i turned the amp back to the original settings and it still does that. i'll check my ground even though i doubt it's the problem. could it just be a bad amp?

i called kicker and they said i might have a bad ground, but i don't see how that could be since i didn't touch the ground. any thoughts?

i've got 4 of these bitches trying to go into the trunk of a mercury sable. i can't exactly meet the manufacturers specs if i went ported. if i did go infinite baffle, how would i do it? what would be the box size requirement if any?

will the cvx's i have work decently? and i was referring to the box that i would have to build, that the speakers would be screwed into. any size requirement there?

i sure as hell hope that's not the issue, because it doesn't make a bit of sense! read the first post again. it's hooked up exactly like this ^^^

i've got 4 12 inch cvx's and i want to do an infinite baffle setup. if i'm remembering correctly that's using your trunk as a larger enclosure. subs inverted and all that pish posh mumbo jumbo... anyways, my question is, how exactly is that set up? i know the trunk space has to be larger than the manufacturers recommended sealed enclosure specs, but is there any size requirement for the box its self? can i go fairly small on the enclosure, or is there a rule of thumb? all help appreciated, thanks!

i checked all of my connections earlier today. everything was plugged in right

okay, so previously i had my two CVX 12's in a box and setup my terminals like meade shows us in (around 0:20). i had been using 16 gauge wire previously and i could bang full tilt for hours (as long as i was driving of course) recently i decided to carpet my second box. in the process of taking out the box, i managed to forget to unscrew the terminals, and ultimately ended up ripping the wire from the terminal. so i had some 12 gauge lying around, and decided to hook that up with the wire just running through the port and skipping the old terminals altogether. now, when i turn the bass up past a certain level, the amp shuts off (i'm assuming it's going into protect mode). i checked the speaker connections, and they were all pretty solid. recently i've been able to turn it up a little more before it shuts off, but i start to smell burning copper when i do. when i had it set up the old way, i could turn it up as loud as i wanted, the woofers wouldn't even get warm, i never smelled coil, and it was actually louder than it is currently. the speaker wire is literally the ONLY thing i changed, and it's worked great before. any ideas as to what could be my problem? extra info: amp is a zx2500.1 running at 4 ohms. woofers are dual 4 ohms