TonyD'Amore

well i finally got the hz lights to come on today by sticking the black clamp in the - speaker terminal on the sub amp, but the 300/4 i had to stick it in opposite terminals??? i dont understand why that would be and im not sure this is right, my gains are higher now than before when i used a dmm, spent hour trying to get this dd 1 to work lol On many amplifiers that have 2 channels or more, one of the channels (usually the right channel) is out of phase compared to the left. The signal actually come out of the "-" terminal and the "+" terminal is ground. It is done that way so the amplifier can be bridged without pressing any buttons or switches. If you are unsure that your amp is like this, or just curious to see what I'm saying do this: Make sure the amplifier is turned off, disconnect your speaker wires. Get a voltmeter, set it to ohms and probe between the battery ground terminal and all of the speaker outputs. You will see that the Left channel "-" terminal is ground, and the right channel "+" terminal is ground!

I am going to try it on the 4 channels in my truck before I take them out today. It works perfectly fine just like it is supposed to on the 40hz track but messes up on the 1000hz tracks. I may be wrong, but it looked like you had the subwoofer turned off on the HU? Probably has nothing to do w it, but if I turn mine off, it won't pick up the signal.. Hope this helps, or you figure it all out! Those RCAs are not plugged in so it should not be effecting anything. CJ, I watched the videos. I want to help you get to the bottom of whatever is going on. I have some questions for you. 1.)The amp in the video is a Kicker ZX350.4 ? Is it class D or class A/B? I looked on their website and can't find that info. 2.)You said you tried two amplifier, what was the other? 3.)Sometimes amplifiers that have the high/low range input selection switch have input stages that get easily overloaded. Can try switching that button to the other position? We'll figure it out. Tony

Haha that's awesome! Tell me which ones, I probably know who they are. On the 4 ch its the Db symbol, the parrot, the beer mug and the skull on the mono its all of the same minus the beer mug. the 'db' is Dave Baker, he is the Engineering Manager at Rockford. The parrot is Richard Dudley, he is a circuit board designer. The beer mug is Mike Myer, he is a mechanical designer. Don't know about the skull.

Haha that's awesome! Tell me which ones, I probably know who they are.

I thought your RF's did this already? Or am I thinking of something else? Isn't it fairly easy to gain match amps? And why would you have to worry about the xovers on the other amps that are your slaves? If you do a "master/slave" setup, don't the slave follow the master amp? Just curious, and maybe it would help others too... I know the guy that designed that system on those Rockford amps you speak of. It's pretty sick

Picture of 3 "measuring tapes" to illustrate why dB is used. This also may shed some light on why it is so hard to go from a 150dB to a 160dB in sound pressure for the newbies. http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i42/nismotony/engineering/img062.jpg

estamos tratando duro de mi amigo AKA I want it before Christmas please

History lesson: The gain matching mode of the CC-1 is in dBV. If you haven't heard of that terminology before, dBV stands for decibel volts. "d" lower case, stands for "deci" which is just a term meaning 10, in this case base 10. Base 10 means every 10dB is 10 times the power. (If you hit a 135dB with 200 watts, it will take 2000 watts to hit 145dB). Upper case "B" for the unit "Bel" named after Alexander Graham Bell. Upper case V for Volts named after the Italian physicist Alessandro Volta. In the audio world when someone says dB they are usually referring to sound pressure. The fact is dB is just a unit of measure, like an inch. But it is a logarithmic unit of measure, like the Richter scale for measuring earthquakes. So as such it can be used to measure many things besides sound pressure. In the case of the CC-1 it is used to measure volts. When gain matching with the CC-1, you can match your gains within 0.1dBV. So you ask why would you do it this way and not just in Volts like a voltmeter? Look at it this way: What is the difference between 1V and 1.1V? It's huge! It's a 10% difference! Ok how about the difference between 100V and 100.1V? It's so small it is insignificant, it's a 0.1% difference. So see you can't match your gains within 0.1V on your Fluke and expect the same results on any size amplifier. HOWEVER, matching using dBV it doesn't matter if your amp is 1 watt or 1,000,000 watts; 0.1dB is always the same percentage of error! Trying my best to explain this in simple terms. Please ask questions if you don't fully understand it, I can try to explain it from a different angle. For the Love of Audio

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/124510-the-smd-dd-1-has-a-brother-his-name-is-cc-1-ninja-pic2/

Yes it will!

Dannnggg.. Guess I gotta put a pulley on the AMG now..

We are working on 2 styles of the LED output meter's right now in conjunction with SMD. Stay tuned

4 styles of shirts up now, also some window vinyl decals. Stay tuned for news on our new products. CC-1 and AD-1 coming soon!! www.damoreengineering.com

Did you get my reply last night?

Thanks man!!

http://wccaraudio.com/ There is also a link here: http://www.damoreengineering.com/

That 30Hz infrasonic filter is probably reducing your output at 40Hz by a little bit. The difference between 97V and 80V isn't much though. 20* Log(97V) - 20* Log(80V) = (39.74 - 38.06) = 1.68dB. So if you are setting with the 10dB overlap track you are ending up with 8.32dB of overlap instead. As you can see it's not really a problem. If you would like those 1.68dB of overlap back you could readjust with your filters set where you are going to have them. The thing is though, all of this has already been considered when we designed it. As you are setting the gains with no load on the amplifier, this will build in an extra 1 - 2 dB of overlap. So it will all work out in the end just by using the procedure in the instructions. Hope this helps Tony

Nope, that's not me. I've been in some movies though, if you know what I mean.

What frequency are you setting these filters at?

If you are still curious about the upcoming SMD/D'Amore Engineering AD-1 Product, here you go!! http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/119785-new-product-sneak-peak-smd-ad-1-amp-dyno-ninja-pics/

Couldn't do it without him. He is my wingman, and the one who talks sense into me when I start getting a little crazy. Also the one who gives me confidence when i'm not sure something is going to work. Juan is a smart guy. no homo

SMD D'Amore Engineering FTW. Just thought i would clarify that. We are a team in case you didnt get the memo. lol. ^^^ What he said Thanks all!!

Nice score! This is the most under-rated amplifier to come out of Rockford since the Punch 45 of the 80s, or maybe the old Power 50.1 Most of them will do 800 RMS with the right load.

AD-1 is a prototype we are working on. I can tell you that it has nothing to do with the DD-1 or setting gains.

The asphalt shirt runs a little small, so if you normally wear a XL you may want to buy a 2X. Depends on your body shape, it is more of a "fitted" style. I would compare it to Hurley's "slim fit" t-shirts. Nice material too, light weight and soft.