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SixTwoRado last won the day on November 20 2018

SixTwoRado had the most liked content!

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About SixTwoRado

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  • Birthday 02/03/1992

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    Orange County, CA
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    Car Audio, desert trucks, street bikes, dirt bikes, list goes on

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  1. Anyone else on the forum now running the Sundown U series subs. I'm really considering a single U10 or 12 now paired with my SCV 2000 in my truck. Think it would be better suited for my listening habits and space available in my truck. Im a big fan of the SA series so I think I would like these. Any talk of them coming out with version 2s already of the U series or are they too new? Just dont see a lot of opinions or videos of them yet at all. Not a huge fan of the looks of the cast basket, but not really a big deal for me.
  2. Hmmmm. I could consider one of those. What sort of sub would those closely compare to in the sundown line up. Looks like I could definitely make room for one level 4 10" or maybe a even a 12" isnt asking for too much room ported. How would one of those level 4s handle the SCV2000 properly tuned? I maybe be able to fit one if we built a tetris like shaped box Like I was talking about. I was considering running two of the SD-10s sealed and downfiring at one point. Would be clean and out of the way, but Id probably just end up wanting more. Ive got 2,000 watts to work with too lol. Kind of way too much for the SD series I think. And my electrical setup can push everything no problem.
  3. Roger that. That makes sense. Might be possible, Im going to have to go to the drawing board and figure it out. Im open to suggestions of course, but Sundown has never let me down, I've always been impressed. Plus the rest of the audio in the truck is sundown lol. What did you have in mind? Id definitely be open to suggestions for two 8s that can fit easier than the X-8s from Sundown but offer more than the SA-8s? Anyone else here running a single sundown U-10? I could fit one of those easier than an X-10 and they rate them at 1500 watts. Plus I like the sound of all the SA subs already.
  4. Yah I pretty much figured the two 3" aeros would be too small. Only (very roughly) about 7 in.^2 of port area per cube. I may still try them before scrapping the box. Unfortunately theres really no way to fit the 4" aeros in the dimensions of the box, unless I maybe made custom ones but dont feel like putting that much effort into this box. Probably just going to seal it up for now and see how that sounds. I am giving each sub 500 watts but it seems like they are laughing at that even though they are rated at 300. Im not blasting it all the time in this truck. The few times I have pushed it at full tilt for a long time on heavy bass tuned songs they seem unphased, didnt get too warm. I understand youre saying turn the power down for port velocity reasons though. Im really leaning towards just getting rid of these E-8s. Not working for my setup. Id really like to run just one big 1500 watt sub somehow. What would you guys vote for... Two sundown SA-8s, one X-10, or one of the new U-10s? I used to have one SA-12 ported in my old truck on a 1,000 watts and loved that thing! It was in the proper box for sure though. Im thinking of trying to do a single x-10 or u-10 in a box sort of shaped like the "T" block shape in the tetris game, like below haha. So the big 10 would be facing up where the middle back seat passenger feet would normally go. What do you guys think of that idea? The rest of the box would still be wedge shaped under the seat with one big port out the side. Not sure how the sub would act sort of being in a super small enclosure but then opening up in to the big main part of the enclosure??
  5. Walledsonic thanks for the reply man! Really appreciate it. Yah I think thats a really good idea. As I said Im going to eventually sell the E8s and go to something completely different. Trying to find a good box builder here in so cal that actually understands subs like this and can build a real box. Im going to probably just go with two SA-8s ported and keep the amp down or Im playing with the idea to try and do just one X10 or U 10 or something point up in the middle of the floorboard with the rest of the box under the seat. Not sure yet. But yah I think Ill try sealing up the box first and see how that does. Probably will seal up the port in the back with a nice cut piece of the ABS or HDPE black plastic I still have. Im really a not a fan of sealed boxes though as far as output but it may sound better in this case. Might try a little polyfill in the box too but it may not need it. If i dont like it sealed then I should be able to cut all of the port walls out of the box pretty easily with my multi tool to gain that space back. Then I think I can just barely fit those two 3" aeroports in the middle of the box and have them both be about 15" long. Port area and box volume will still be kind of low for the 4 8s on 2,000 watts but should be a lot better if I get the actual tuning down. They seem to be handling 2,000 watts no problem. Especially on regular music. We'll see. Think two 3" aeroports is too small?
  6. Alright you guys for reference here is the box I'm actually using that the E-8s sound like crap in. He actually put the slot port facing out the back on mine though and I think the port itself is smaller than what is pictured on his website. I really think the E-8s are suffering in this box because its on the small side and tuned wayyy too high. My final wiring impedance measures out to exactly 1 ohm on the multi meter and scv2000 is tuned with the DD-1 and CC-1. tried multiple different settings. So here is my last ditch effort. Going to try and frankenstein this crappy box... I ordered two 3" aeroports and Im going to cut out all the bracing for the slot port I can in the box and cover the slot port hole up in the back with a clean piece of abs black plastic. This should essentially seal the box up. Then Im going to try and fit the two 3" aero ports either on the front of the box or out the sides. I believe it comes somewhere around 2.0 cubes after displacements. Maybe a little less. I know its small. Then I'm gonna cut the aerports down to about 15" or around that. Want to tune the box somewhere around 35hz. What do you guys think? Think the 4 e8s will sound alright in a smaller box with two 3" aeros and running on the SCv2000??? Just a last ditch effort before I trash this box and sell the E-8s.
  7. The amp rack board is heavy duty velcroed to the back wall and bracketed at the bottom. The bottom and middle of the amps are screwed into the amp rack board. And for the top mounts I used rivnuts on the back wall of the truck where there is a hump that sticks out. So nothing going through to the outside. So the tops of the amps are bolted into the rivnuts, if that makes sense... Still trying to figure out what subs I should go with that will sound proper with proper box volume. Think Im leaning towards running just two SA8V3 on the scv2000 lol. Gonna have to keep it tuned down though. Not sure what else to fit. Unless I make a box liked I said that has an extra portion sticking out in the floorboard area of the middle seat.
  8. WOAH guys! Just realized I completely forgot about this build thread. Been really busy actually building the truck for the desert. Its maybe 25% done haha. Waiting on the rear end and supercharger then eventually this thing will be getting caged and offroad seats inside and will need the tunes reconfigured and a new box somehow. However, the interior is going to remain stock how it is for now in the back for another 2-3 years. Just realized I never even posted a pic of the subs so I'll post that below. Also, I have a DC power 270xp now on order. The self exciting 250 elite alternator has not been playing nice with the truck. Not sure why. All my grounds and power wires are solid and over the top. Belt tension is proper with new gates belt, but idle voltage really sucks. Its up there pretty high, but its constanly fluctuating, so much so that my SMD voltmeter never stay on one light ever haha. Constantly jumping around a few tenths of a volt. Even with no tunes and idling the trucks dash lights are slightly pulsing at idle. Real annoying. I will say though that once I start driving and bumping tunes the 250 mechman does do really well holding the voltage. Im gonna try the DC power 270 PCM controlled just to try and steady out my voltage at idle. Really need to try some new subs too. Unfortunately the way I trimmed my back seat brackets and built my amp rack I cant really lift the seat at all. I ordered a cheap box from a guy online that builds truck boxes, I know thats my main problem. It fits all the E8s and they're wired to 1 ohm on the SCV 2000. But there is just not enough space or port for them. This box is not well built and I already sort of knew that. Its tuned WAYYY to high. I have zero low end. Some higher bass songs do alright though. I think I need to switch to just two SA-8s and tune the amp down. I think thats about all I could fit and get tuned and ported properly. However, Im also entertaining the idea of the new sundown U series. I really liked the single SA-12 on 1,000 watts in my old truck. So Im thinking a new U12 or U 10 would pair nicely to the SCV2000. And it doesnt look like they require as much air space as the X series??? Im hoping it might be possible to have the sub sit pointing up right where the middle back passengers leg would be then would connect to the rest of the box all under the seat with port out the side. So basically Im talking about building one box that is like the one I have now but opens in to another box thats between the back seats on the ground, right behind the middle front seat aiming up. Think that would work??? A few more audio build pics I never posted Heres the SMD meter the crappy box housing the E-8s. Small slot port out the back. Just not tuned right. E-8s are great little subs! But just not gonna work for my application. How the truck looks nowadays. Long ways to go.
  9. Thanks for the tip. I'll keep that in mind. On my previous truck I did just what you suggested and sealed up all the big holes to help with midbass from all my focal speakers. It was really easy to do on my old truck. Unfortunately I just couldnt figure it out on this truck in reasonable time. All this audio stuff already took me like 8 days and I was trying to finish it before returning to work. The challenge is chevy built all the interior door panels of this truck with big recesses that fit in to all those big open spaces in the doors. I was able to cover a few of the smaller holes but the bigger ones cant be covered or the plastic door panel wouldnt be able to go on. I had a few sheets of different types of plastic I planned on using but wasnt able to. Could have maybe custom molded something somehow but too much of a hassle for me for this build. I also have a whole roll of expensive second skin luxury liner pro. Unfortunately that stuff is so thick I couldnt get any worthwhile big pieces to fit. I may revisit this later though. The chevy doors are really solid though when all assembled. I used the thinner second skin foam stuff everywhere and butyl rope on all the rattling plastic pieces.
  10. I'll just keep the pictures coming. Heres a pic of the very limited space I had to mount those two amps on the back wall. More on this to come, but making everything clear the back seat, and seat belt, and my rear power window regulator was a real PITA. The rest of the pics just show my doors for now. I used a fair amount second skin damplifier pro on each door. Most of the large solid pieces are on the outer door skin. Made a huge difference in sound when you close the doors on this truck haha. All the woofer from my sundown component sets were mounted in the stock locations. I custom made the speaker adapters for each. Nothing pretty or perfect, but very very solid and functional, and most importantly, WATERPROOF. The adapters were made from HDPE black sundboard. Picked up two big scrap pieces for just 20 bucks from a local plastic warehouse. Great deal! This stuff was super easy to work with, I actually prefer it over MDF. I only have basic hand power tools too. But this stuff is waterproof, solid (3/4" thick), and already black. I mounted them with all stainless steel hardware and those screw type rivnuts riveted in to the doors so they are removable. Super solid. Also, 12 gauge sundown speaker wire was ran to each of the woofers and used throughout the truck for all the components. More to come....
  11. Been busy at work and missing the truck. Ill try and start upload some of the pictures from the 8 day build. Also, stay tuned for some changes that are already coming. Long story short, the box for the E8s was way small and tuned way high, hard to fit 4 8s properly in the space I have so Ill be switching to 2 X8s More details on that coming up. But for now here are some engine bay pics. I went with the 250 amp elite self exciting mechman. Install went pretty smooth. However, this alternator is said to have same diameter as stock pulley but it is actually just a little smaller. I originally installed a new gates belt with the same as stock size specs and length and it was just a tad too big. After a quick drive the tensioner was right on the line of being out of adjustment too loose. So I switched to one size smaller gates belt and it is now right on the line of being too tight, but no slipping or issues and i think its better to be on the tight side. Went with the XS power S3400 with a heat wrap. Fit right in the stock location. I riveted and added a waterproof circuit breaker behind it to go to the stock fuse box electrical. All power and grounds were upgraded to mechman 1/0 OFC with the heat resistant tech flex added to it. Super beefy quality stuff. I Redid engine block to battery, alternator to battery, and engine block to chassis/body. Power wire is ran to the back cab and inside the cab with a CE auto electric supply waterproof grommet. Really clean. Wish I had a better spot to cleanly mount the fuse for my amps but its pretty solid where its at mounted with zip ties. Stay tuned for more of the build!
  12. Well you guys, I have been super busy so haven't been able to post at all. I worked my butt off on my build for 8 days straight and then finished it one day before going back to work. I have a lot of pics and things to share, some questions too. Will post more when I get the chance. Here is a teaser pic for now
  13. I got my hands on the meter tonight and played around with it temporarily hooked up in the truck. This meter is awesome and super fast and accurate. Find the right spot for it in my truck is going to be tough though. My first observation is its too bright for me at night time. I really like my lights all dim for night vision, something Im used to since I work on tugboats and ships haha. Ive had this problem in the past with bass knobs too. This will have to be remedied with some smoked plexi somehow or possibly a small piece of light window tint Im thinking. The meter fits almost perfectly in the spot by my right knee where the trailer brake controller goes, that I never use haha. But mounted there by my left knee is too low to comfortable look at and also too low of a viewing angle to read the gauge. I also noticed you have to be right in line with this meter to read it correctly. It also fits perfectly in the right side cubby below and to the right of the headunit, but the viewing angle is too far off there for the driver. I really dont want to hack up the dash too much in this truck, just not a great place for it, but Im going to keep brainstorming as I really want to use this meter. Looks like it would fit well in the instrument panel where the stock volt meter is, but not sure if I want to hack that up either and I dont have a way to dim it. Id sure like to see the option for a dimmable VM-1 Ill report back as I figure things out.