AudioFiend

Average dime a dozen teen porn site slut...Probably a huge coke/meth head with herpes like 99% of the industry.

I really don't mean to be hurtful towards you, but judging by what I'm reading I think it would be wise for you to postpone making any major purchases until you really have a firm grasp of what you're doing. Experience tells me you could do some major damage to even the best equipment just by not knowing what you're doing. The truth can hurt but...Seriously you will thank me in the end if you just do another couple solid months of studying and research before buying anything.

I agree, furthermore no one is forcing you to keep that car...In this country we have the ability to sell a Hyundai and buy an SUV or any number of other options. Honestly 4k of real..clean power probably isn't realistic in a compact car daily driver, it is possible but...hard. Ok a "4,000 WATT MAXXX! AMP!" from k-mart is a 300 watt amp...if that's what you mean by 4k...Then you'll more than likely be fine. If you are trying to run an amp that is reliable enough and stout enough to run 4k daily you will need huge electrical/charging system upgrades to ensure the amp's hunger for voltage is constantly met.... Next..a single 18 that can take that much wattage..lol it will be very hard to put 4k to a single sub for anything longer than an SPL burp, that's a huge amount of heat for any single voice coil to handle on music. Always invest in a high output alternator before you start adding batteries. While your car is running, the electrical components in it are getting their power from the alternator not the battery. There is a saying they teach in engineering school, and that is "build it too strong" if you build something too strong, you will build it with enough redundancy to never encounter it's maximum breaking point under normal conditions, like a bridge. Apply that strategy to most things in car audio and you'll be fine.

Check out this link. Jacob the owner of Sundown Audio clamps and tests all the mono amps. http://www.splbassx.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=10921

Well if the Power Acoustik's 3200 watt RMS rating was on a true 1 ohm @ around 16v or whatever they test on then it just isn't realistic that test amp couldn't caught on fire who knows lol. Anyone who knows impedance knows that to get to an actual 1 ohm after box rise and other factors you have to basically run a .175 - .3 ohm load to the amp, in which case the box rise will put you right up around a true 1ohm run. The amp has in it 5x40 amp on board fuses which = 200amps. 200x16v=3200 so maybe they indeed tested it at 16v for a short time period to get that number but odds are you will be running @ 13.8-14.4 volts...Again with the proper alternator...If you don't have the proper alternator, and run battery power to it..You will be seeing fluctuating voltage and may even drop close to 12.5 or lower... 200a x 16v = 3200 watts @ 1 ohm 200a x 14v = 2800 watts @ 1 ohm 200a x 12.5v = 2500 watts @ 1ohm Since you won't be wiring your subs anywhere near .33 ohms to achieve a true 1 ohm load after rise...Say you wire your subs down to 1ohm and run them to the amp, calculate box rise and you wind up running a true 3ohm load. Well what is about to follow is totally hypothetical, and rough at best. But it will put a more realistic number to the amp's output for you. Let's use the 200x14 for it but now remember you'll be running up closer to 3ohms so let's figure out 3 ohms on 14v instead of the 16v they seemed to have gotten their numbers from. 2800 @ 1 ohm is -400 from 16v For the sake of my brain...just subtract 400 from each so 1ohm would be 2800w, 2ohm would be 2100w, and 4ohm would be 1300w judging by their rating of the amp. So on 14v which your alternator will be putting out with no modification: That amp should be around: 2800@1ohm 2100@2ohm 1700@3ohm <---- Somewhere in between 2 and 3 is your number if you wire your sub(s) to 1ohm 1300@4ohm 900@5ohm 500@6ohm 100@7ohm ?>@8ohm I'm 100% sure it isn't linear like this but whatever.. I'de look for around 1500-2000 watts RMS out of the amp which still isn't bad for $250 but be careful now the components and construction of them is cheap, fast, and furious in some Chinese factory so take it easy on this brand, it's not a Sundown amp. I mean judging by the guts it could be a 1500 watt @ "1ohm" more conservatively lol...which is not bad at all for $250. I'd still save up at least $500 or more for an amp that will be sure to last a long time, and take a lot of newb abuse.

You fuse according to the wire you're running to prevent the car catching on fire. Like I said you hook a 200 amp load onto your XS D2400 for maybe 45 seconds...Aside from being dead the battery will be extremely hot...The terminals at least..Well copper transmits heat real well and when the amp is, again, pulling power from the battery that heat travels down that wire through the fuse toward the amp. You put the fuse close to the battery so when the terminals are putting 500 degrees to the fuse.... .....(Becuase your amp is pulling power from a battery instead of what it's meant to be pulling power from...An alternator).... ... it pops 12 inches away from the battery instead of having to heat up 3 feet of 0 gauge copper to 500 degrees before popping the fuse, in turn lighting your car on fire. The amp will blow a 5$ part if it's going to blow from too much power...Amp's blow from too little power being pulled from a battery that gets incredibly hot in a matter of seconds due to a high amp draw and rapid voltage drop....

PLEASE READ THIS BECAUSE IT WOULD SEEM YOU HAVE BEEN FED INCORRECT INFO REGARDING YOUR CAR'S CHARGING SYSTEM, AND BATTERIES IN GENERAL!! I find myself forced to un-teach all these battery company's marketing hype... When a vehicle is running..The electrical components in the vehicle DRAW POWER FROM THE ALTERNATOR not the BATTERY!..When the system is pulling more power than the ALTERNATOR can produce, the system starts to draw power from the battery which frankly is not good for batteries or amps...Batteries are not meant to be used as long term power sources hence voltage drop..amp failure..sub failure..and all sorts of problems, because BATTERIES ARE NOT MEANT TO POWER THE CAR'S ELECTRONICS! Here is how to calculate what alternator you need: A 1000 watt amp with 50% efficiency = 2000 2000 / 13.8 volts = 144 Now that 144 is the amplifier's ampere draw...Divide this by 3 for music (Because music is not one solid bass note...It's intermittent bursts of various levels of power..Or use the full 144 for burps or test tones. For your purposes you need to divide that 144 by 3 which = Approx. 50 Ok now we've established your 1000 watt amp is going to pull an average of 50 amps from your alternator while the alternator is putting out 13.8v (a totally hypothetical average) Say your car came with a 95 amp alt...On average vehicle manufacturers allow a little leeway in the alternator for a little after market gear, but usually that's 25-40% of the total. So from your stock 95amp alt about 30amps is free for aftermarket gear. Well we've established a small 1000 watt amp on average music..Not cranked up rap music draws an average of 50 amps of current from your alt...This is not good because your alt only has 30 amps to spare. When your amp pulls more amperes than your alternator can put out...The battery(s) pick up the slack and cover the amperes the system needs to keep running...There is one problem with that scenario, and that is; the battery is not a steady gas powered DC generator like your alternator...Batteries' voltage can drop not to mention alternators only charge batteries to 80% of their maximum capacity...An alternator is not a battery charger...It's a battery maintainer..It will charge the battery to x amount of volts per cell then it stops charging... Look I could write you a book....But batteries are not what you want your system running on...They are meant to start cars, yea they've made them beefier to handle more amp draw for longer periods but go ahead and hook up 350 amps to your D3100 and watch it be permanently fucked in about 20 seconds...While a 350 amp alternator can put out that load for years... Like I said an alternator is a battery maintainer not a charger...This means you need to perform certain maintenance on batteries to make them live up to their full potential and life expectancy...A nice charger with a desulfation cycle...And a lot of knowledge on how this stuff works will only save you a ton of cash on useless shit you don't need. You put a deep cycle battery under your hood...The biggest one that will fit...And you put the biggest damn high output alternator you can under the hood. Alternator....Alternator.....Alternator....When the car is running and your alternator has enough output to keep your system amply fed, your 350$ 31 series 80lb battery is about as useful as an 80lb paper weight. Ok for all you who think well then why do people have 10-20 battery banks...Well because you can only fit so many alternators under the hood, and for 20-30,000 watt systems they can easily pull 2,000-4,000 amps of current no way 5 350a alts can keep up so you then need a battery bank, yes....Not to mention it takes horsepower to turn those damn things and try putting 5 350a alts in a stock civic...Yea you'll need batteries. For a 2,000 watt system on music...Get a damn $250 220a alternator that bolts directly in your stock alt's spot...And get a nice YellowTop or similar deep cycle battery for the stock battery location...And have fun bumping. If it's not enough and your amp is still experiencing voltage drop...GET A BIGGER ALTERNATOR! Hope this helped someone, -Steve

An alternator always comes before batteries when you're getting serious wattage. When your vehicle is running the electrical components get their power from the vehicle's alternator not it's batteries...Only when your system pulls more amperage than your alternator(s) can put out does it draw from it's battery supply. So always go for a bigger alternator first. And there are plenty of beefy subs out there. Sundown Digital Designs DC FI RE Audiopulse American Bass Mach5 Audio Shocker Soundsplinter Crystal mobile sounds Lightning Audio Image Dynamics RD Concept Lanzar opti Memphis Kove Skar AudioQue Orion DB Drive MMATS Incriminator Audio Earthquake Atomic Ascendant audio Cerwin Vega Crossfire Sound Solutions Audio (SSA) Audiomobile Adire Audio Eclipse TREO TC Sounds T3 Audio SSI Elemental Designs Custom hybrid subs Into the mainstream stuff... Pioneer makes a former world record holder called the 8102SPL which is a monster. MTX Jackhammers are beasts Kicker Solo X 18"s are beefy but I prefer round subs to more easily recone them you can use the motor from the X on an aftermarket basket but meh...Round ftw. And many many more..

Amazon.com is really good for tons of stuff, and Stinger Volt Meters are one of said stuff.

Oops I missed the 150 post minimum in the rules there, okie I'll work on that tonight. Thanks for lettin me know bro.

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