nickers

wheeeeeuuuuuuu hair trick on a budget(of sorts)

use your phone to wheel the bitches, facebook is around so you stay connected.... who wants that..

no 15.3 is fine, some people even run higher, so says the guys in one of the threads i responded to, he said he has a friend running 15.7V. i wouldnt up it unless i researched more.

hey guys my dad has a 1979 porsche 911 sc and is putting a system in it, well already has a system, and as i have become more proficient in the field than him i came to realize that in 1979 he probably has around a 60-90 amp alt, maybe even lower considering its a "performance" car. anyways i told he should probably look into that because his mids and high amps and all his comforts are probably more than what the alternator does comfortably. does anyone know a company that manufactures a high output alternator for this model of car? thanks

how in the hell do you double clutch? thats what ive always wondered

yes you are correct.itll act the same was as if you just ran the amp remote leads directly to the amps however,it allows you to use the amp remote lead wire to power multiple amps without harming anything in the head unit. once the head unit is powered on (when car is started) power that is sent through the wire will energize the relay and the power from the battery will go to the amps, instead of power from the head unit. the remote wires are rated anywhere from 250ma-500ma, 3 amps will consume that much, and may draw to much current, damaging the REM output circuit , which may cause the HU to no longer have any output from the remote lead. are the words remote lead starting to sound stupid to you because they are to me, god damn, anyways. you may not be running 3 or more amps but you may run a processor or equalizer or crossover which all use the remote. even if your not using those its still a good idea to run a relay just to be safe, then its done and you don't have to worry about it if you decide to put any more amps/processors or what haveyou. sorry i just re read your post and all that i said may not have been needed,cause i think you get it. but dammit i wrote it so its being posted

you need a relay so you don't burn up the remote lead on you HU. its basically a switch with the remote lead being the trigger and power from the battery supplying the juice to the remotes on the amp. when you turn on your HU it'll trigger the "switch" in the relay causing the power from the 12v connection to go through to the amps remote. get a 5 pin remote and wire it: pin 30 to a 12v connection (battery)fuse it around 5 amps or lower. pin 85 to the decks remote lead pin 86 to ground pin 87 output to amp remotes pin 87a is not used relay pins are marked so that makes it easier. better to be safe than sorry, don't want to burn anything up on your head unit. and as the the ohm load on your amp. how many subs do you wanna run? if you wanna run 2 at 1 ohm get some dual 4 ohm subs and run coils and subs in parallel, if you wanna run one at 1 ohm get a dual 2 ohm and run the voice coils in parallel dont mean to confuse just wanting to help.

you could look here to figure out how to wire the relay, however the diagram is wrong and you need to listen to the people who suggest the 87 pin for output. to answer the bass knob question most mono blocks come with one so no worries there. another thing is big 3! lastly you must know getting into car audio is a path to the dark side, its addicting, have fun.

sub frame connectors would come before that stage. first i have to adjust the entire front clip because apparently you can make it so the frame is out of alignment if your not paying attention. and also the rad support can be out of alignment which puts your fenders out of alignment which then makes the hood and hoodsprings near impossible to adjust properly. just a series of events but its not that big of a deal its out by a centimeter.

the car has the black front end now lets just say my friend stopped right in front of me while i was pulling out of my parking spot. and as the the suspension and bushings upgrade, the entire front end has all new bolts and bushings, me and my pops had to replace the subframe so went with all new parts, and even got some pretty new QA1 adjustable ride height coil overs. the back end however is a different story, its old and bushings are worn, when i add more power i need to overhaul the rear end with maybe a 4 link, and put subframe connectors in to stop body flex. its a t-top car so it is naturally the weaker body style.

the jagaloon who had it before me bought plug wires that were to long and it makes things look cluttered, oh well i needa replace em anyways, but what colour to buy.

she aint ragged but she isnt exactly what youd call a beauty queen

i was planning on 4 sa-8's on a dc 2k

this is what ive got in right now. needa get rid of the fan on the water pulley and get an electric. also need a 6 groove pulley kit which is gonna cost me out the ass, all so i can get boned by the cost of a new mechman. rather spend my money on a car than a girl thats for sure.

383 stroker? mmm yeaaa

i was thinking stick with performance BUT replace interior/exterior parts with lighter ones maybe fiberglass like hood and deck lid, rear bumper and whatever else all so that it offsets the weight i add with audio i was thinking of finding a nice bored big block 454 and it could be like the 1970-73 camaro ss's but kind of like the disgruntled step child because of the plastic front and rear.

i am stuck with a dillema. i have a 1981 camaro with a beefy little 350 and a 4 speed. i'm wondering whether i should first upgrade parts or save for audio? second question would be should i scrap both those ideas and make my ride a big block beast?

your sub should take 750 rms. give or take. as for asking what output your gonna get.... fuck if anyone knows its all about the setup. and your 17 rebel make a trip to the comps parents will get over hell i know mine do

if you turn heads downtown you might find yourself without a system if you leave your car

dayton seems to have good reviews look em up on partsexpress. they are also quite inexpensive

i think ill take your advice but lay the ply on the front of the existing panel, that way i dont have to worry about fitting issues.

mount it on the front id assume? because the 1/4 inch wood would push the panel out and make the window seal not sit properly.

because he has swag...

i need ideas, budget is secondary. if i have to pay some god awful price for some super advanced thin jesus wood then ill just put a few layers of glass on the whole panel

oh ive done alot to the car im pretty comfortable doing just about anything. im glassing the doors for 2 8 inchers. and that will be retarded if i dont do something to stiffen up the panel itself because im mounting the ring structure too it. and the reason im using the original panel is because of the door window seal at the top.