PurfectlyInsane

Following what I said will inreturn give the same results. Also, if he could smell the port, it will give him a answer if its the sub or not.

Owning the "one of the loudest vehicles" doesn't mean you know it all. I gave reason behind my post, he didn't. So until he explains why he has his theory, there isn't nothing else to say.

the plan is a DC 5k or the new crescendo 5.5k, but probably the DC cuz i like to match my stuff. thanks for the input everybody, much appreciated i think either one of those would be a nice combo. or even an AQ3500, lol. I rather spend 100 more on the Crescendo. 5000+ watts vs 4200watts. Also, as far as "matching", is the extra few hundred dollars worth matching name brands if the internals of both amps are VERY similar. Equally priced or close, I could see it. But if you have to pay close to MAP pricing on the DC, I'm not sure its worth it. I'm just saying. As far as whoever is complaining about this thread, don't read it then. Read the first page and that's it. But when you throw 3500rms to a XL without real knowledge, don't whine and complain when you no longer have a working sub. I wasn't arguing but trying to educate the ones who JUST read and don't post.

no it won't. there is no difference between mounting a sub inverted vs. mounting it regular (assuming identical net box sizes.) Oh ya thats right what do i know..... Seeing how it will almost be impossible to test them equally. If you invert, your net volume is bigger, we all know that. But if you build the exact same box but same net as have the sub normal, the dimensions won't be the exact same. So therefore isn't a comparable test. If you put something inside the box to take up space, that against is a variable that could change the outcome of the test. Plus each sub, each box design, each setup could be different. And just because there isn't any differences in perfect conditions doesn't not many in a vehicle, with hundreds, maybe thousands of variables could have a effect on the outcome. So what do you know? Please tell us.

This is why I advise him to touch the dustcap. How do you know he isn't clipping it? Don't guarantee nothing you don't know for a fact. This guy could take you advise, ignore the smell, and end up blowing his sub, because you really didn't know for a fact. That's one problem with internet forums, people askes questions, and get answers from others who act like they really know something but don't. Save us all the headache. People really need to realize their comments could have effect on peoples life.

You also have to figure impedance. Below 1ohm is way harder on the coil wire and tinsels than higher impedances if its the same power.

My Verizon Blackberry Downloads at 150-180kb/s. This was after I updated to OS6, before that I was running 50-70kb/s. I haven't tried Wifi.

If you are turning it wide open, yes it could possibly be clipping the signal before the amp.

I really dont care what someone says. Most people dont have a clue what there doing when they start asking limits of any woofer a question. The very best just try for themselves. I know im at 95% maxed out with the current power. And thats the only person that matters to me. Ive seen people smoke XLs and LVL 5's on 1500watts..But its not a sub failure more users being dumbasses. Alway easier to blame the company from there stupidity. That is exactly my point. Yet my first post when I said something similar, somebody said my post was useless. And they "can't" blame the company. I just didn't think it was wise to openly say the real limits of XL. A PM to a few people you think aint retards, sure. That is all.

But with your test unless you list every detail, there could possibly be a million variables. Did you have a clamp and oscope the whole time, to make sure the same power as supplied? Also, box size, tuning, abient air tempature could play effect. Excursion, frequency, and impedance. The list goes on and on. Its not that I'm saying your test was invalid,just its possible the results aren't universal. And really can't be look at a real test for everybody. Honestly, if this sub can handle 3500rms for 30 mins, it should be almost impossible to break one at rated RMS. Which I'm sure people have before. Like I said, this really doesn't have nothing to do with the sub in question. Just to make sure the wrong people don't misread the info.

Usually when you smell coils burning, it is getting hot enough to melt the glue. Which is pretty damn hot. First, when you start smelling this odor, have you touched the dustcap to see if the sub is actually getting warm? This should be the first thing to do. First, touch the dustcap before any power. Then play for however long till you get the smell, turn the volume all the way down touch it again. If it is quiet warm, you are either clipping or overpowering the sub. Or a little of both. If you don't have any proper tools to check the sine wave(oscope or similar). Turn the gain down some. Then let the sub completely cool off. Then replay the setup to see if the smell returns. If so, you are still clipping. May need to repeat this again until the smell is gone. Also, your headunit could possibly be clipping the signal before it even reaches the amp. IIRC, Pioneers can only be turnt up a little over halfway before it clips. This could be your problem also. BTW, when you smell this odor, DO NOT PLAY IT anymore longer! All these people saying check with DMM, I'm curious how you say he does this?

Was this done at 60hz or above? Usually not much Xmax at that high of frequency, so no worries of suspension failure. I have doubts the XL will take that much power for any real long lengths of time. I'm not in ANYWAY cutting down the sub, but just stating that's a ton of heat with no real way of keeping it cool. Like you said, if you have that much power and the suspension is moving(therefore moving air to semi cool) it could possibly have problems. But in a situation where theres not a lot of excursion, therefore no air flowing, could the coil handle and dispute that much heat? Like I said in ANYWAY saying anything bad about DC or the XL. Do I need to repeat this again? Also, on the note, 98% of the people hear know what they are doing. Well, its not that. Its the people who don't post a lot, or ask any questions that could read the first page of this thread and think the XL will be perfectly fine on 3500RMS. I'm not even sure the 98% could pull that off without breaking something. I've seen people who I thought wasn't total dumbass's, really screw up some shit because they didn't have any real experience. People as a whole are dumb, and assuming they understand what's going on will usually turn around and bite you in the ass.

Ok I understand now. 3501watts and it will go poof. A 5k will be easier on the subs also, and I would suggest it over two 3.5ks. I've never understood why people always want to push their subs to there absolute limits. Usually power compression plays a big role and could possible only gain heat by adding more power without any gain in SPL. Also, with all that heat, the time it can play full tilt is cut drastically. All for maybe a little gain of SPL. Which might not even audible. Plus usually when running that much power to a sub that isn't exactly designed for it, needs to be ran in a smaller than optimum enclosure. Then you lose box efficenty, have greater power compression and more strain on your electrical system. If you want a louder setup, spend more in the actual install. As it is just as or more important, than the driver. You will usually gain more by find the perfect enclosure and ect than by adding power. And unless your after every tenth of SPL, it could possible not even make a "real" difference.

Regardless, they should say, we don't suggest much more than rated. And just because they "can't" does NOT mean they won't. Period. Anybody in this industry who deals with the public should be able to relate to this. A good percent of the time a problem with the product occurs, they blame the company. And 99% of the time it is user error. Subs are stupid so to speak. They only do as they are told. But noobs don't understand that. They read, what CJ posted as its ok to run 3500rms. That's all they read. They think they know what they are doing because they read up on the internet. I've seen countless and countless threads of people jumping to the first conclusion its the companies fault for their product failing. But sorry for trying to help prevent idiots from reading this topic. As the title will draw them in. And initially get the wrong idea. They will automatically decide the RMS rating means nothing.

Highly and I mean HIGHLY doubt it lol... anyways it'll take it but if its clamped power and they will see 3.5k rms daily I'd do the lvl5s You sir, have no idea. Have you ever had a setup with 3500RMS on a single sub similar to the one in question?

I don't see exactly how a XL(rated at 1500rms) will take 3500RMS(not rated amp wattage). As far as I know the XL doesn't have any real cooling features. The 18 actually has less, because of no vents under the spider landing. It has a hollow pole, but this really isn't for "cooling". Am I missing something here? A 1500rms sub handling double and then some. And the reps openly saying you can. There are way to many idiots out there to think about giving them the idea, its ok to run double RMS than rated. Only to kill the sub within minutes because they don't fully understand what's happening. They will come back and blame the company. I've seen it happen. If anything, you try to advise against running a whole lot over rated RMS. Not the other way around.

These are right at the budget limits. And DC people will never allow anybody to pick anything over them. Even though, performance vs price. As DC is dealer based and suppose to sell at MAP pricing. Direct companies like Fi prices are cheaper.

Amp? Crescendo is coming out with a 2k, 300 shipped.(US) And I would compare it to AQ, and DC(very similar actually)

Well what type of box would you suggest to be more "efficient" in his setup now? Also, what program are you using?

ive checked both the dc website, reviews on google and youtube.... i do my reasearch before i lay this much money into anything im happy, and ive been eyeing up dc audio for a while..... they not only sound good, they look totally hot aswell! I'm interested in what you decided to go with. So if you don't mind, could you share?

Make sure the facts he gave you are actually true. I'm not doubting, but he could be bais.

But actually on topic, Fi is currectly redesigning their SSD. And will be around 200 dollars. They also have a international dealer, BladeIce. These should be the best bet in your price range. 3inch coil, lightwight Neo magnet motor structure, 800rms(if its the same as the old one), and that's before any options.

I'm not saying he's not a good person. Or even a good rep. I'm sure he takes care of his costumers well, if not he wouldn't still be a rep. Just seems pushy in threads. You don't see any other reps on this site pushing products. If he wasn't making money off of it, and just promote a product he loves, fine. But its like he's pimping DC as posted above. Before long people will get tired of it. I've seen it on other forums, and they loved theproduct just like this site loves DC.

Fixed for you. I think there may be a DC dealer over there, so take a look and see if they can help you. If not shoot me a PM and ill get you taken care of. I've been lurking around this forum for a few months and really wasn't going to create a username. But everythread I look at, it seems you come in, and try to get people to run DC instead of something else. If this is how DC does buisiness, I'm not sure I want to deal with pushy salesman. I understand you want to promote and make money off DC, but there has to be a point where you drawn the line. You always want to PM people with prices, even though nobody asked for them. I'm surprised other people haven't wised up to you, or still allow you to do this.