Stephen_og

dude that sucks... Ive had a system stolen out of my car before. You just get that sick to your stomach feeling when you find out and it all sets in.. never a good feeling

hahaha yupppps, but like most people are saying, a 40 cal would be a great option. http://us.wholesalesports.com/storefront/firearms/semi-auto-handguns/m-p-40/prod1218217.html This is the one my grandpa has, I loved shooting it, its not to big or small in your hand, ( I have some big hands) and has some good power behind it. gl with your gun search brother

Hey theres nothing wrong with wanting a gun that has power lol but say you were on the recieving end of some dude robbing you with a 9mm, you wouldnt think it was a cap gun then just a little humor

Order number #549.. cant wait til it gets here! well worth the wait

stephen_og Auburn, WA (all the way in the corner) lol DD-1.. Now need to find a damn term lab around here hah

You want something big? Hmmm..... .500 S&W magnum

Yes i know your right i am over thinking this i just want to get it right cause im not sure. All sppeakers are at an 8 ohm load Sounds good so i decided i will go ahead and get a 2 channel... i will look into that sound digital Ok so i will go ahead and ditch the bass blockers... and on the passive cross over would something like this>>> http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_33608_Audiobahn-ASX02J.html?utm_source=froogle&utm_medium=organic&utm_campaign=froogle or do you mean something like this>> http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_23146_Power-Acoustik-C-3184.html Just references not the real products im looking at Iwould go with your first choice, the audibahn or how everyou spell it x-over. something simple to get started with and its your common x-over. But if you plan on getting, or already have subs, sub amp that would be your way to go it has front and rear, and sub control on it. It all comes down to your needs and what you want bro.

This. Your best bet is to get a 2 channel amp that does close to 200 watts RMS each channel. If im reading it right, you will have 2 speakers per channel. all speakers are 8 ohms and running the two speakers in parallel cuts the ohm load in half, 4 ohms. look in to Soundigitals new 250.2. it does 250 watts RMS at 4 ohms. just my two cents.

I know that i only go by the rms i am just wondering if more than 1 speaker is wired together does the rms get added together. and my picture posted is of a 2channel amp with 2 svc 8ohm tweeters on each channel a total of 4 tweeters (wired at 4ohm load) 70wrms each tweeter and 2 8" midbass svc 8 ohm (wired to 4ohm load)bridged between the 2 channels 150wrms each midbass speaker. Or my first picture posted is of 2 svc 8ohm tweeters 100wrms each tweeter and 2 svc 8ohm midbass speakers 150wrms each midbass all wired down to a 2ohm load in a mono amp that could have a frequency response of 20-20000hz yes i am using passive crossovers i think they are called that anyways. Im talking about the little cylinder capacitors with the 2 wire points on the ends, or some of the stinger products. So if i wire the tweeters as shown in pic 2 i would use the crossover points at the wire connection where it meets pos to pos then wires to amp? And i would use the proper crossover to block frequency points from a 4ohm load? EX. 0-600hz@ 4ohm. And what about if use the first option where i got all speaker wired at the 2ohm load on a mono block, where would i put the crossover on the tweeters and what ohm load would i use to calculate the crossover point? No i dont believe RMS gets added togehter but someone correct me if im wrong, just whatever ohm load you wire to, the RMS watts will go evenly to those two speakers per channel.

never go by what the amp says its MAX power is, RMS is your true power thats going to your speakers, subs etc. and tell my what that picture was so I can get a sense ofwhat yourtalking about.. the computer at my work wont let me see it.

IIRC, if you wire two speakers in parallel, you dont increase the RMS of the speaker, the ohm load to the amp increases the wattage that goes to the said speakers.. If i missed that some one already said that, my bad.. just trying to lend some helpful advice.

Are you looking for something is the same price range as your L7? If your looking for somethin that would handle in your 1500 watts RMS range DC makes the 15" XL thats 1500 watts RMS. Contact one of the handleful of dealers on the forum or go to the website for pricing. Like everyone is saying your going to have to make a new enclosure, and iirc the cutout for kickers square subs isnt round, correct me if im wrong. Plus you can always ask the dealers on here for recommended enclosure sizes for that perticular sub. Hope this helps

So as the title says im looking into getting a pair of either DC 12s or a Pair of Memphis CM cast mojo 12s. For the DC's I would like them to be lvl 4s if you have them. New or used. If they are used I dont want them to have been abused or pushed to the limit. shipping is too 98001, so if your interested PM me or reply with what the cost would be WITH shipping.. Thanks

how bout you put up a want to buy thread and see what happens.. Im sure someone on here has some of the stuff laying around

X2 lol definitely want to know whats in store for that truck

Uploaded with ImageShack.us

The motor on those 8's look sexyyyy, cant wait to see what you do with those beasts

Im picking up what your throwing down.. lol I wish my car could be turboed.. I know theres the mazdaspeed 6 but I have the 3.0L and they only made that in the 2.3L.. but on the flip side they do have a supercharger for the 3.0L 6's

What made you go the turbo route? Just curious cause when I think muscle cars, I see supercharged.. But that is one bad ass mustang. My dad had a 1989 mustang GT.. Sold it too a buddy for his son to build, now it runs at the local drags.

I looking for around 50', doesnt have to be a spool but if thats what you got hit me up, of KnuKonceptz power and ground wire for a couple runs to my trunk for my extra battery, and big 3 that I will be doing. Doesnt matter if its Kolossus fleks, KCA, or KLMX. New or used ( if used I would like it to be in some what good shape). Shoot me some offers, Kind of on a budget so if it could be under 100 shipped that would be great. Thanks, Stephen

Voted for the chode man.. IMO he would definitely be a great team member for Second Skin.

When the time comes where he can beef up the electrical, if he decides to do so, he now has an amp that will butt fuck any 10, 12 etc he hooks it up to lol

long story short, final impedence dictates ohm load to the amp... got it! lol sorry it took so long for my dumb brain to figure it out. better to as now than later lol thanks for all the help guys

SO to get this right, I wont be able to get the full 1200 rated power out of the amps without going to .5 ohms per amp? Im know these are all noob questions but im just trying to unde3rstand the whole ohm laod, impedence bullshit, i appreciate your help bro. Don't do .5 unless you got the electrical to back it up. Wire your subs final load to 2ohms. Check that with a DMM. When you do a 2 ohm load, And you have two amps in master & slave, The 2 ohm load splits, and each amp see's 1 ohm final. And at 1 ohm final load, you get the power its rated at 1 ohm. ( Considering you have the electrical to back that up at 1 ohm, And it does rated. ) I hope this makes sense. That makes perfect sense. Just to make sure im understanding it correctly, When you do run amps in master slave/strapped, in a sense the amps are already preset for a 1 ohm load but depending on how you wire your subwoofers for a final impedence, it could change the ohm load being wired to the master amp im assuming?

SO to get this right, I wont be able to get the full 1200 rated power out of the amps without going to .5 ohms per amp? Im know these are all noob questions but im just trying to unde3rstand the whole ohm laod, impedence bullshit, i appreciate your help bro.