kylecm85

ok here is what u have to do 1. the positive lead on your meter should be in the jack marked "A" and the negitave should be in the com position. 2. set the meter to DC ampres. 3 disconect the negitave lead on the battery. 4. the positive lead goes the the loose negitave battery cable. 5. the negitave lead goes to the negitave battery post. 6 Leave alone for 30 sec to one minute. The current draw needs to settle. 7.Check the measurment n the display. Pull the fuse from the components that are suspected of the currnt draw. Most cars from the factory will have a standby current draw of 30 -45 ma. Make sure all the lights are off and nothing is on when you are checking. If you pull the radio fuses out and the current does not change then you know that is not what is causing it to die. Just pull until you find what the problem is. Hope this helps out

let me know i can tell you a way to check current draw with your dmm if u dont figure anything out

yeah i confused myself on that last post sorry shyne but yeah that is the basics. been drinking all day.

you should not have to go to the bcm for anything if it is the car in your avi they are a little bit of a b to work on lots of relays resistors and diodes i am pretty sure the locks are multiplex one wire but if u dont want to do locks then you do not have to worry about that. Basic alarm is 12v constant 12v switch, ign ground, door triggers, and siren and horn if you chose.

i am pretty sure that haness is supose to generate an acc lead. If not you can put in a relay or see if u can get a new one

ihear that we have to call the tech line all the time to that is why we get the cars other shops in my town will not touch.

if u design it right you would usally gain maybe a couple db's. are you sure they are getting all the power ut of that amp. what are they wired at.

is it in a prefab if so ditch that. Get some specs and build a nice vented enclosure to give them what they really want.

going to the next model up is going to do nothing but give u a remote start if they do it right all they are doing know is trying t fix a problem that if they would just suck up there pride and call the tech line it would have been solved the first time you went back. I would tell them to take it off and go to another shop that is qualified and have them do it. Give me your location and i can put you in touch with somone in your area that can take care of it. shyne is also right i would try taking the tech sheet to them but dont tell them where you got it.

I dont think you would you already have the gmrc-03 the only reason for that harness is if you want to bypass the amp and run factory or aftermarket off the deck. but with a 4 channel you have already taken care of that. If you need wire colors for anything let me know i have acsess to a few diffrent resources. and the guy who made the original post please dont use a test light even if it says they are computer safe it has been proven they are not. Get a good dmm and be on your way.

if it is set to double pulse then it is causing the alarm moduale to pulse the locks twice. Which in most newer toyotas is the way you have to do it. But the avalon is diffrent which was stated before you have to go to the passenger door to get the other locks. But i am not to sure what is causing it to honk the horn unless it is freaking the computer out in the car. I think the shop just does not want to eun the wires to the passenger side. You stated before that they went back in and solderd the conection. I would make sure they solderd all the connections. It could also be a cold solder joint which it is not making good contact.

we built one when i was in welding in high school and it was fun we used a u type chanel that was steel forgot the exact name for the frame strong and cuts down on weight a little and made the bed out of 2 or 2and half inch tubing then flat steel for the actual floor. prob a little heavier than what you are intending it for but it was fun to build.

just got my shirts alot faster than expected considering they just droped yesterday. Mad props to steve and livneked clothing great job now everyone order some shit and help steve out.

damn i was there all day saturday u had to be standing right next to me at the bikini contest i was sitting on the bench next to lucky which was the guy in the golf cart and and some other people that where running the show. on a side note my buddy won the stereo comp

i used a total of 7 layers of mat which i thought would be enough. Yeah i c what u are saying about the vent it is a little to close. I didnt really think this one out that well. Which is why i pulled it out and am going to start over on a diffrent design. I can never figure out what i want to do in my car its a never ending battle.

no prob and if u ever need some direction in the industry give me a shout and i can point u in a couple directions. for ex. schools. I have been to iit in orlando snake pit and mobile soulutions is coming to my shop next month.

yeah i can do that and yeah there were a couple in there i sanded them down and went over them with more glass. I might go back and try t strengthen it up some more. But time does not seem to be on my side these days. So it may be a little while.

i have had the same experince with people saying why d u want to do all the nonsense and i just ask them if they can install anything in a car. When they say no then i say thats why i do it. Because not everyone is cut out to do it. But just remember you are doing it for yourself and no one else and it will take a long way.

thats how people are. I am an installer in my town and people acted the same way when i used to do things out of my house. Thats why i dont do it anymore. But if u really want to get into it for a profesion then u will have a place to do it. Just to warn u it does turn into a job after awhile and its not always fun but just remember why u got into car audio for the fun.

that sounds like a good idea and if u have any other questions just ask

i would not drop the ohm load then because all that is going to do is cause u problems. I think u are set up pretty good at 8 ohms with that sub. you should be able to run it like that no problem. If u get another sub i would wire them in series at the coils and then paralel them at the amp for a 4 ohm load.

as always nice vids and that dude was wiggin out.

it was about an inch or so. It had alot of output it was just low and fell off to much and was not really what i was looking for. I was used to my other box that has alot more output and is alot stronger 1" face and sides just a better box all around. I am planing on getting another one in the nea future so i am going to end up building another box but the new one is just going to be mdf or birch.

first u have to figure out the rms of your sub. Because if u just send 1400 to a 500 watt rms sub you are just going to smoke it what kind of sub do u have and the box design is a big part to.

yeah i should have just pulled some off the shelf in out stock room and went to town haha next time will be twice as nice. and thanks