Amart88

Heres a video of it. go to 1:04

ok. Just curious. They do move a "fair" bit but nothing close to some I have seen online. That guy with 11k on 4 of them in that crown vic had crazy excursion EDIT: they are dual 2's I was told to wire them like this : I dont have a cc-1 only dd-1 so running each seperate would be tricky Wire a pos from one coil to a negative of the other coil. Do that for both subs. Wire the two remaining positives to the positive of the master amp. Wire the two remaining negatives to the positive of the slave amp. Connect the two ground terminals of the master amp to the two ground terminals of the slave amp. You were told wrong. Well not totally wrong, but not optimal. Amps can run more efficiently and more reliably as individuals. And you do not need a CC-1. or dd-1 And when strapping amps, perfectly even gain settings are much more crucial. Best wiring scheme for that setup is to have each woofer on its own amp. Coils of each woofer wired in parallel. You can easily gain match those amps with a few techniques. 1. If they have a slave/master use that and you are done 2. use a voltage meter and measure the AC voltage on each speaker wire output. You can do this without the woofers connected and just make each amp read the same voltage. 3. Look at the woofers playing as you adjust gain. Play a solid tone and just adjust the gains until each woofer is moving an equal amount. People have been gain matching for 30 years before CC-1 or dd-1 so I think you will be fine. ok, If i do them each in paralell can I use all 4 speaker outs? i hate having to jam 2 8 ga wires into one woofer terminal, it sucks. Also what do you mean by matching the gains while strapped? Theres so much to understand, I'm just trying to wrap my head around it. Thanks for the help too. Yes you can use all speaker output terminals. Just connect each coil individually. I meant that when you strap amps, the gain settings of each amp must be exactly equal, which is much more crucial than if they are not strapped. This was in reference to your concern about not being able to gain match the amps if they are separate. If they are matched when strapped, they will be matched when not strapped. And if you have master/slave then you can use that whether strapped or not and they will match themselves. Wow I never knew that about master/slave. So if I run them speratley, do I still use that single RCA for jumping? along with the other RCA inputs. Right now while strapped, the gain on master is set correctly and the gain on slave is at 0 along with all the other settings. Do you know If I can still use the bass knob if they are seperate?

ok. Just curious. They do move a "fair" bit but nothing close to some I have seen online. That guy with 11k on 4 of them in that crown vic had crazy excursion EDIT: they are dual 2's I was told to wire them like this : I dont have a cc-1 only dd-1 so running each seperate would be tricky Wire a pos from one coil to a negative of the other coil. Do that for both subs. Wire the two remaining positives to the positive of the master amp. Wire the two remaining negatives to the positive of the slave amp. Connect the two ground terminals of the master amp to the two ground terminals of the slave amp. You were told wrong. Well not totally wrong, but not optimal. Amps can run more efficiently and more reliably as individuals. And you do not need a CC-1. or dd-1 And when strapping amps, perfectly even gain settings are much more crucial. Best wiring scheme for that setup is to have each woofer on its own amp. Coils of each woofer wired in parallel. You can easily gain match those amps with a few techniques. 1. If they have a slave/master use that and you are done 2. use a voltage meter and measure the AC voltage on each speaker wire output. You can do this without the woofers connected and just make each amp read the same voltage. 3. Look at the woofers playing as you adjust gain. Play a solid tone and just adjust the gains until each woofer is moving an equal amount. People have been gain matching for 30 years before CC-1 or dd-1 so I think you will be fine. ok, If i do them each in paralell can I use all 4 speaker outs? i hate having to jam 2 8 ga wires into one woofer terminal, it sucks. Also what do you mean by matching the gains while strapped? Theres so much to understand, I'm just trying to wrap my head around it. Thanks for the help too.

ok. Just curious. They do move a "fair" bit but nothing close to some I have seen online. That guy with 11k on 4 of them in that crown vic had crazy excursion EDIT: they are dual 2's I was told to wire them like this : I dont have a cc-1 only dd-1 so running each seperate would be trickym (i also like using the remote knob so Im not sure how that would work on the crescendos) Wire a pos from one coil to a negative of the other coil. Do that for both subs. Wire the two remaining positives to the positive of the master amp. Wire the two remaining negatives to the positive of the slave amp. Connect the two ground terminals of the master amp to the two ground terminals of the slave amp.

Just wondering if woofers move more once they are broken in? I'm running 2 btl 15's on 2 3500's. and I see btls on less power moving more than mine do. Mine arent broken in much yet though. They are wired series/paralell to the 2 3500's strapped

Huh? Would lock washers help?

Yeah I would have to have 4 1/0 wires going through it lol no way that would work. Also the factroy "ground" was just a piece of sheet metal sticking up from the tire well with a bolt in it. I just cut it out and moved the groun(s) to just above the tire well. It's a unibody car so I can't see it making a huge difference. Only other thing is the factory ground wire is gone. It was like 4 gauge so I had no use for it. If those little things could make a diffference GM should get a kick in the ding ding for that. Only other thing I did was add 2 addition grounds from the ground buss bar which in (bolted to bare metal) to the alt bracket. So idk. I will try that MLA soon and see what happens. Sometimes when I am playing the voltage will slowly drop to 13.3 ish and sometimes it will spike to 14.2 or 3 and then back to 13. 8 and so on. The car is a mental case if you ask me lol

You're doing bus bars as in solid stock aluminum like 3/8 1/2 inch thick right? something like that? if so than I wouldnt worry about the aluminum moving...watch the terminal ends though...its ok if they get a little flatter but you dont want to smash them so bad the bolt pushes through. All those torque specs are in inch lbs so its not a huge amount of force...but certainly enough to get a good conection. Yeah its 3/8 thick and 2 inches wide. Also I use 2/0 tinned lugs to they should be ok

Damn! lol ok I had the "fairly" tigt as I wan't sure but i'll go out and crank em down. I just thought the aluminum would slowly move out from under the bolt or some shit. Thanks for the info

Well, I tried the ground ring over the amps ground and my voltage went nuts. Bouncing all over the place, 13.4 14.5 13.2 14.1 13.7 etc... so I put it back. ugh. These PCM jobs are head scratchers for sure. lol

How tight are you supposed to have your bolts on an aluminum buss bar? Mine are not threaded just a nut and washers. i've heard people talking about aluminum "creeping" so just curious. I don;t want to mess up anything or have it not tight enough lol

How many miles on it? I just started runing synthetic in my car. I find it runs smoother myself. But its has 100k km on it. It's supposed to be better in the long run so why not. You will have people tell you not to because of a bunch of things they "heard" but alot of that was years ago when synthtic was starting out. I used Mobil 1 as I heard good things about it. Amsoil is supposed to be the best but Mobil 1 is second to that. Another note. You pay more for synthetics but it will last alot longer before an oil change is needed.

Thanks for the reply, i read through you r build log last night Nice job by the way . Umm I will try to put it on the amps ground and see if that helps. Also The voltage will stay at 13.8 with the "auto lights on" and when I start bumping it will go down a small bit but sometimes when i bump it wil spike to like 14.1 or 2 then back down to 13.8 then back to 14 ish etc. Sometimes it will just drop to 13.4 and slowly climb back up but sometimes it will spike to 14.2 for some reason and sometimes it wont. I do have a PCM mla on they way soon. also, whats an AD alt?

How would that help him? A 14v battery needs to be charged above 16v. Hell, the resting voltage on one of those is higher than his charging voltage right now. I don't think that would fix Amart's problem... Correct, I would not be able to even charge a 14v. I'm just more curious about what others did with their PCM controlled voltages. I like to keep my options open and hope to find a fix that won't cost an arm and a leg. I like my car and my system I just need to sort this out. Everytime I bring this up its like a giant brainf*ck lol theres not too many places out there that know anything or are willing to even touch this stuff. It's kind of sad. I'll try the MLA i guess. Also, not to knock external vcm's but I have heard that they can overheat your alt(s) and cause alot of problems with batteries and what not, Besides xs dosent even make them anmore

?? Actual car battery? I can;t fit anymor ein my trunk. Already have 3 xs 12 volts

Ok, I had stated this in an earlier post but I found this so interesting that I wanted to make one about this. You all probably know that alot of GM vehicles from 2006 and up have PCM controlled voltage which is a pain in the ass. Some in particular have the 2-pin alt plug with the inductive ground pickup around the negitive battery terminal so the PCM can control the voltage. My car is one of these. Ever since my latest install, my voltage is around 12.9 and goes to 13.8 with lights on. if i start bumping the voltage will go down to 13.3 ish and then jump to 14.2 then down to 13.7 and so on. I thought it used to be higher before this build. Is there any way to "trick" or manipulate that ground sensor ring so that it will let the PCM charge the system better? I have it around a Knu 1/0 ground now because the stock ground is gone as it was not needed. Is there a certain "sweet spot" to have this attached? It would be cool if there were some way to do this without spending a 1000 dollar son something that may or may not work. Also i think any info on this could help alot of folks out there as the dealer will not tell you anything. It's tiring when you put all of this work into a system and then find out the PCM is being stupid and people tell you to buy another 600 dollar alt to fix it. I am getting an MLA pcm module but i'm not sure if that will stop the voltage from bouncing around so much. What did you guys with these PCM's do to get the most out of it? any tricks or stories? Thanks I no i'm not alone. Thanks Pic of said ring: http://www.yourcobal...ng-100_1936.jpg

I have a few freinds in Buckhannon ... that's nothing lmao what a bunch

Looks good so far, nice job!

You could always try it but In a larger vehicle like that I think you would still be better off with a box, subs up port back. Just that its an awul lot of work and supplies to do If your not happy with it. I mean even 4 18's don't need a wall but it's all about what YOU want to do. Peronally I like walls. I have 2 15 btls walled but now I want 4 as 2 seems to little. Alot of wasted space. it still sounds good though

what do you mean by "or in a box" . . . and i guess what about 1 18 b pillar. . and if still not worth it how about 2 18s c pillar? was a typo lol, i fixed it

One 18 is not worth making a wall for. You won't gain much with 1 18 in c-pillar wall, I'd just go with a box. Now if you were running multiple 18's it would be a different story

Yes, But won't you lose loudness on songs that are like -7db? I'm still tring to learn this whole thing. I mean meade is set to -10db and he plays under 5 so I don;t get it

They are nice but I don't know how you guys can type on that small ass keyboard. I always hit more than one key when i use them lol

Thank you all for the info, I got the plugin so I can open itunes songs now. What do you do If the song is under -5db where your system is set to? I don't want clipping. Faded was showing -0.6db. wow Do I just turn it down or is there a way to make it -5db?

I have been trying to find this song all day, Its called "I want candy" by Mc pee pants.but it hass added bass and slowed parts. Anyone? Go to 1:45 thats where it starts.