727Designs

Then your picture makes no sense. You have 5 speakers drawn up to it for one thing, and you show 3 separate inputs instead of 4. Next time draw it more detailed, show each wire going to a corresponding +/- on the amp, not just a bunch of lines going to a box. Do some searching on how to wire it, if you fuck up wiring 4 speakers to a 4 channel you don't need to be on here.

TTT don't have enough interest to get a termlab out unfortunately, should still be a fun show!

Mine is odd, it falls off with the door open, but it likes both front windows down, and the rear window down with both rear door windows up. Now if I leave both front windows up, back window down and open the door it does ok, but still falls short of the other way.

I already have the 3 subs from my last system and id only have to buy 1 sub, also im kinda going for looks aswell more than sound. Ive priced my upgrade to cost me about 300-400 dollars The mids/highs would be on a 4 channel amp at 4 ohms..only need 400-500 watts for these things to move them comfortably. i was just wondering if i had the wiring hooked up right What I was saying was until we know the individual impendence of each speaker you are wanting to hook up to that mids/highs amp we can't tell you anything. You are wanting to hook up 3 speakers to one channel from what I can gather from your drawing, and depending on impendence your amp may not handle it.

Looks decent, but you can get a 50' spool of KNU for around the same price by the time you add shipping. It's always worked great for me in the past and will be what I go with again.

DAP clear goes on white, and dries clear.

All good advice in my very limited experience. After you get a bit of experience under your belt, it becomes MUCH easier. IMO, the hardest part is cutting wood. Then again, I use a circular saw. I bought a 49" straight piece of 1/4" thick aluminum, clamp it with a c clamp on both ends, set my circular saw against and cut. Instant straight cuts for dirt cheap if you don't have access to anything better. Just measure the width from the blade to the short side of the guard and add/subtract that accordingly to get your cut where you want it.

The easiest way to do it in that amount of room would be to do it as 4 chambers, basically like 4 small boxes laid out like that that use a common top and bottom sheet. When you get into porting them and working it all out in that shape in that area may get tricky, though I'm sure it can be done. I must ask though, why are you wanting to go with them again? For just slightly more you can pick up a pair of MUCH better subs (DC lvl 3, Sundown SA's, etc) and be able to make a much more simple and effective box and get even louder than the 4 cheaper subs. For your mids/highs amp we will need to know the impendence of each speaker, and the minimum impendence the amp is stable at. IE: if your trying to wire 3 single 4 ohm speakers up to 1 channel parallel you could be running 1.34ohms on an amp only stable at say 2 ohms.

ive only had one fall of before and my truck was under warrenty so i had them put a new one in and never had a problem again but idk for sure how they work but maybe put some better glue on them see if that works? My warranty ran out last year, I've had 2 fall out so far (the stock, and a piece I had cut) I used the epoxy the guy who cut the one for me suggested, I guess a better glue is really my only option. I have considered trying to take the mirror off and maybe adding some rubber washers on the mounts to see if it would cut down on the vibration some, haven't had chance to really mess with it though.

Clamps Titebond II for sure. I buy it buy the gallon. 1 5/8 course thread drywall screws I use 3/8" lag bolts double nut the wire to the inside, drill a 3/8 hole, slide it through till the nut hits the box, tighten a nut on the outside then jam another one down when you put your wire on it. Seals air tight, and gets a good connection. ALWAYS ALWAYS ALWAYS predill your holes, I like to countersink mine as well but I wouldn't consider it a requirement. MDF is notorious for sucking up any type of paint, I use a cheap grey primer for 2-3 coats before I lay down anything else. Also I like to use an orbital sander to make all seams perfectly flush, then use woodfiller on all seams, and on all the screw holes so that once it's painted none of it shows through the paint. A Jasper Jig and a router will make life MUCH easier when it comes time to cut out your baffles. If not just take your time with a jigsaw and then clean up any uneven areas after. I use cheap DAP brand clear silicone in all the seams, everyone has their own opinion on what works best but it's never treated me wrong. Also if it's going to be big enough it wouldn't hurt to brace it. I like using some 1" dowel rods or something of the sort, 2/4's work, 1x2's, whatever you have readily available. Double baffle may also be necessary to add some strength, plus then you can flush mount your subs which looks great. Take your time, don't rush, don't cut corners. It will turn out as something you can be proud of in the end.

My Titan is exactly the opposite, my rearview shakes like crazy but stays on, yet I keep losing the glass in my side mirrors. Any suggestions there?

I'm running the same amp with close to the same voltage to a single SA15D2 in 3.25 net at 35hz and it gets pretty damn loud. I'd say 2 of the B-stock ones Jacob is selling now would be crazy loud on it.

Several hours from Savannah. About 1.5 north of Atlanta. We will have more shows throughout the year, but this will be the big one. I believe I have a termlab coming, will know for sure within a week. Sorry it took so long to update, I'm still waiting on a flier.

Exactly. If you have a question, or don't understand something we would rather you ask then try to improvise and damage the equipment you spent your hard earned money on.

That's what I'm worried about...I don't have an oscope. Is that the only way to see if it's clipping? Have access to a digital multimeter? It can be done with one.

If it's sealed set it down low, but if ported set it pretty close to your box tuning, I like to do it +/- 3. If it is set too low for a ported enclosure it could cause the sub to unload.

We can pull it off. Our normal shows are pretty big, our monthly gathering for just our car club has 35+ vehicles. We have 2 more clubs joining in with us, as well as the bike shop I work at part time, and 2 other local bike shops. I'm still trying to get the local shop to bring their TermLab out for it, just depends on the interest of the audio guys.

Working on getting a flyer with more details scanned up. A local car club I belong to is putting on a show on June 18th at North Georgia Technical College on June 18th. We have got in contact with a few other local clubs who will be coming out, as well as several local businesses including food vendors, and games (Most likely a moonbounce, cornhole, etc) for the kids. We will have classes for cars and trucks (both new and old), bikes (I'm working on getting the bikes divided up into something more than Domestic and Import but we are going to need a good turnout!), etc. Once I get more information I'll post it up. At the end of the show we will be splitting the proceeds and giving them to Union County High School Autoshop. There will be quite a few audio shops sponsoring the event, and I'm trying to talk one into bringing out their TermLab and doing a sound off as part of the show, with a small additional fee to enter. I believe the fee to show is going to be around $10 or so, so maybe $10 more to enter the sound off or something? We will work out the details on that as soon as we get an idea on how many people will show.

Send me a PM on those Hertz components too, I've been looking at them.

There is absolutely next to no scene around here anymore locally, just wondering if there was anything going to be around here soon? I wouldn't mind driving a couple of hours. I'm dying to see what this new setup will do.

I have my current enclosure setup to downfire my SA15 (Only way it will fit in this truck). Question is right now the thickest part of the surround (Closest spot to the floor) is around 1.5" off the floor (Soft underneath for around 1/4 due to factory sound deadening. Do I have enough room or do I need to try to squeeze some more height off the floor?