6berry

some kid i used to be friends with gave a ford explorers passenger mirror an uppercut because my friend needed one. then to be even more of a dick he wrote "thanks for the mirror" on their window with a sharpie.

that amp would work, although the speakers would be slightly underpowered and you would have an extra channel. it would be a simpler if you went with 2 or 4 of them. and then find an amp going by the rms power of the speakers and amps. the speakers you showed have 250 w rms so you would need 750 rms for 3 of them or 500 rms for 2 just a suggestion if you want really good midbass check out the selenium woofers.

out of your choices i would go with 2 -12's but i would personally go with supercharged dc's idea of 4 or more 8's or 10's. you could always get 4 10's and then make your wall a ridiculous amount of 10's

go into the dc audio section of the forum and contact whatever rep is closest to you

to find a battery just measure your stock battery's size and then find whatever xs, kinetik, ngt etc. will fit in that same spot

any battery will work for you as long as its a 12v. just pick the biggest one the fits your stock location and budget. i think an oem alternator would be fine if your only running 800rms and 3 HID's since the HID's are prob 55w each so that would leave you at 950 watts

Why is it that you chose 3 sets of subs that are much different than each other? The tech forces are equal to the level 3 DC audio's. I meant to vote for the Dual 2 ohm but clicked dual 4 ohm. When you wire your voice coils, wire the coils in parallel and your speakers in series and you will get slightly better output

i think what he meant was if he could run say a 14 of 16 volt battery on stock electricals with having to use a step down. my answer is that i have heard of people running 14 volt batterys safely but i dont know for sure and i dont know if it varies from car to car

looks nice! i might have to pick some of this up when it goes for sale

yeah ive read it could be either 2:1 ported to sealed or sealed to ported. i kinda didnt describe it specifically but i meant it would have 2 sealed chamber at 1.5 net cubes each so that would make it 2:1 sealed to ported

how do you think these subs will do in a fourth order? i can do it with 2 sealed chambers at about 1.5 cubes net and a center ported chamber at a little less than 1.5 cubes net with a port tuned to 45-50

I'll see if i can design a box like that to fit my car.

I can go 34" wide, 19.5" high, and about 16" deep but maybe an inch further if needed

Thanks the torres box calculator is working way better! The subs are about 2 inches apart but the way they are staggered most of the sub is aimed at the baffle of the other side. i was considering a 4th order but I dont have the room for it

I plan on getting 4 level 3 10's for my car soon and they will be powered by either a sundown SAZ-2500D or a Rockford 2500. I designed this ported box for them with 2 subs on each side with 1.8 cubes after displacement per 2 subs. The problem is when I put the numbers into WinISD to tune the port to around 30 Hz with 30-40 sq inches of port area it tells me I need a 40-50 in port. Is there any way I can fix this? I can give you the dimensions for my box if you want them. The subs are staggered diagonally on their baffles because i didn't want this box to go too deep into my trunk. The two baffles are at a 30 degree angle from each other.

That should fit in your truck. The dimensions you gave give about 20.6 cubes of box and the DC website calls for 3.5 cubes per sub so you have about an extra 10 cubes to account for displacement from your subs and port and double layering your box if you wish

I'm looking for two powerful 12's for my car. I was looking at the DC XL's or the AA mayhem or any subwoofer in the same category. Also looking for an amp to power these subs but the amp depends on which subs get.