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Everything posted by IBleedMusick
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I was thinking about a mercury switch for the trunk lights or wiring them to the wire that detects the trunk being opened but I still wanted a toggle switch for instances when I don't want them on at all. It sounds crazy but I have times when I want people to just the amps on with no other lights at all
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I am going to be doing the same thing soon so what i did was get a relay and junction box post splitter and wire it so you could run everything to the splitter and it will turn on when your radio does. Pic for your viewing as far as the volt meter i would run it to the battery that you ran your amps to. although i am not to sure on the volt meter That's a great idea but where can I get a junction box post splitter from and the relay?
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Wut up people, Here is the deal I am doing my Civic's FLI Audio build and I have reached a point where I need to start adding the trimmings before I complete the main build. As far as trimmings go I am installing a volt meter, trunk lights, lights under each seat and lights on the mids/highs amp. So here are my questions: Where do I wire the Volt Meter to get the best reading from my car when it's on with the engine running and when its on without the engine running? What wire in the car should I hook the trunk lights up to so that they are on when the car is running and when I just have the key in the ignition listening to music? Same question for the lights under the seat? The lights for the mids and highs amps will be hooked up to the remote turn on at the amp so I have my answer for those. All lights will have toggle switches on them just for my own craziness when ever I need to cut them off I like to know I can turn them off if need be.
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Back in the day Phoenix Gold used to be one of the heavy hitters, then they fell off for awhile like every other big name they got money hungry and with cheap with their builds they were bought by AAMP of America not to long ago (If you don't know AAMP of America they own JL Audio, Stinger, PAC, SoundQuest and a few others) and they scrapped the old line and reinvented what the product use to mean. Their newer stuff is amazing the SD amps are beautiful, do rated power and their subs are solid they definitely resurrected themselves with their newer stuff. I heard a system recently that had two 12" R3's on a Ti1500.1 and PG mids/highs on a SD500.4 and I was rather impressed.
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So I found the culprit for my leaking trunk there is a tear in the rubber surround between the trunk and the lower rear window. I tried duct tape and electrical tape and that didn't stop it so now I bring the question to the forum. Any help would be appreciated I need to get this done because it has not only halted my build but cost me an amp in the process.