KenC210

What size, how many and what are you using to power them

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/compare_items.php?sort_order=%2Fviewcat.php%3Fcategory_id%3D99%26sort_order%3Dprice_asc%26items_per_page%3D100&product_id[]=17919&product_id[]=33889&product_id[]=30983&product_id[]=16156 depends on other features you want though. What evalonso say is right also bout install or is it diy

http://www.fordparts.com/Commerce/CatalogResults.aspx?y=2001&m=Ford&mo=Taurus#Search <--- this should tell you just click your engine size. I didn't know the engine size so i just plugged in the 3.0 v6 and its 130 amp edit: to know for sure you could check part number if you alt is easily accessible

Is there anything wrong with the way you have them, or just want them to look clean? Just curious cuz thats how mine look but i got 4 runs temporally, wanted the system to play already.

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_35666_Visonik-VK1600.4.html Anyone know about this amp?

A box i am planning on build shortly. As you may be able to see there is two openings where i will be using lexan glass. I will have the leaxn fiberglass 1/2" thick and put a paneling around it so i could attach it to the box without drilling into the glass. you could drill the outside edges of the glass with a #150 bit just deep enough for you led light. Using in and out motions while drilling so you don't melt the plexi test fit the leds to see if they fit, if using 5mm led's, clean it out and put clear nail polish in each hole. Put in all the led's and start wiring them. That should light up the whole plexi if you go all the way around. I don't know what you would want but that is an idea. I personally aint goin to do that cuz i want the leds inside the box.

Not good for stereos its best for starting. maybe how many yellow tops?

Thank you... exactly what i could use... as much as i here about 12volt i should have figured

Does anybody know how to calculate the volume taken by the 45's or at least somewhere i could figure out how to find it out?

okay i checked out the jl site and it made me more confused than i already was... although it may be more simple than what it seems i just may need a better example in more simple terms. Yeah as i figured, so i will end up trying out the second box idea. It will be port and sub up. So my next question is how would i do this port bend? I am very unclear of the bends in the port and dont want to be doing the wrong measurements. If my port length is 26" on the torres how would i account for that with how i have the way this port is? Is there any performance reasons for port and sub up. Or is it just cosmetic purpose?Oh thank you again for getting my pic up.I tried to get my screenshot up but it did the same thing. How important is the 45's thing in the boxes I just haven't really got it yet. Yes sir I seen that and thanks I can't believe how much trouble I'm having with that. Yea I'm curious about my box too lol. This post is helping on mine also like the port needing more breathing room. From the box to the doors it'll have 2.5"s so I may have to fire the port up. Thanks for the help you've given me. I did that pic in your post again... i didn't realize it was you that i did that for i just forgot about going back to your post before to see if you got any support on your build. i was curious about your box also Yeah i know that i need just as much clearance from the port as its width so i decided to have port fire up

I am not sure how to do it thats why i ask. But i thought you would have it as far from the back wall as the same as the width of the box, so i think it would be down 18" that would leave me with 9" to split both ways so i think it would go 4.5" each way. Am i wrong in thinking like this? Just a noob sorry Any help on the port?

Try it out on a older head unit first but i believe it sounds possible. you would just have to only use one or the other aux input. I am curious myself i do have an older hu i dont use that does have an aux. i may just try this out see how it goes.

Yeah as i figured, so i will end up trying out the second box idea. It will be port and sub up. So my next question is how would i do this port bend? I am very unclear of the bends in the port and dont want to be doing the wrong measurements. If my port length is 26" on the torres how would i account for that with how i have the way this port is? Is there any performance reasons for port and sub up. Or is it just cosmetic purpose?Oh thank you again for getting my pic up.I tried to get my screenshot up but it did the same thing. How important is the 45's thing in the boxes I just haven't really got it yet. I did that pic in your post again... i didn't realize it was you that i did that for i just forgot about going back to your post before to see if you got any support on your build. i was curious about your box also

Ok so i am not sure what i did different i just copied and pasted your img code and there you go... hope you get the help you need

I hear the same thing port back sub up but i dont have the room to have port back and sub up. i still need the back seat.

I am not sure how to do it thats why i ask. But i thought you would have it as far from the back wall as the same as the width of the box, so i think it would be down 18" that would leave me with 9" to split both ways so i think it would go 4.5" each way. Am i wrong in thinking like this? Just a noob sorry

Yeah as i figured, so i will end up trying out the second box idea. It will be port and sub up. So my next question is how would i do this port bend? I am very unclear of the bends in the port and dont want to be doing the wrong measurements. If my port length is 26" on the torres how would i account for that with how i have the way this port is?

i've never personally used threaded rod, but from what i hear, it's a very good alternative for 2x2's. they don't displace much air and don't interrupt airflow as much. Ok thank you.I really think of the airflow being interrupted inside of a box.How much dose that affect the performance. Yes i have noticed the round rods as bracing as well. I was just looking at purplehaze's box and it looked great. I also figured i would use less displacement with the rods

thats all i can think of unless someone pops in with a good design back round edit: changed letter color green was sorta hard to see on my screen Are you suggesting 45's all the way across as i did the bottom or just maybe 45's as a piece that are about 1" or 2" thick? If i read the post correctly you are suggesting 45's as a piece. I will add the 45's at the top as suggested just not sure how you mean.

Ok so in the first one if i do the port like that as you say it will interfere with the subs unfortunately so i guess i may scrap that idea. Unless i add 2" to the depth i would possible make it work but then the port is maybe an inch or so away from the back hatch. That wouldn't be good for the air flow would it?

So i have another idea i would like. How is this specs and design for this setup. Also could someone help me with the port measurements on the length? Just wondering how i would get the length i need with the port bending this way. I am extremely thankful for support or advice.

No i am needing one amp either a 2 channel or 4 channel but if its a 4 channel i need at most 100wrms @ 4ohms and if its a 2 channel i would need at most 200wrms @ 2ohms

So i wasn't to sure how to measure the port, so did i do the bend correctly? 17" out and 10" across to give the port length a 27" or am i doing that wrong?

Anyone? This will be used for 2 AQ 2.5 15's. Is this ok or should i change anything?

Hows this box looking? Any other things im missing?