KenC210

Well i am in the need for either a 4 channel amp or 2 channel amp. If it is to be a 4 channel i will need 100wrms @4ohms and a 2 channel amp to have 200wrms @2ohms. So i haven't looked to much into 4 channel amps but i have seen this... http://www.audiosavings.com/products/4-Channel-Car-Amplifier/Cadence-F600-4-1400-Watt-Peak-350W-RMS-4-Channel-Amplifier-Car-Audio-Amp-F6004/F600-4.aspx This one seems to best option for the price just don't know much about there amps. I have also looked into some 2 channel amps http://www.audiosavings.com/products/2-channel-Car-Amplifier/Pioneer-GM-5400T-760-Watt-Peak-380-Watt-RMS-2-Channel-Car-Amplifier-Audio-Amp/GM5400TRB.aspx http://www.audiosavings.com/products/2-channel-Car-Amplifier/US-AMPS-XT800.2-V3-800-WATT-2-CHANNEL-CAR-AMPLIFIER/XT800.2+V3+RB.aspx I would like to stay in a lower budget cuz now Christmas is around the corner so i dont have much to spend on myself. So i would like to keep it around 100.

i guess thats the pic you wanted?

man i would like to take advantage of this deal... would really need to convince the wife cuz its Christmas time and i got 3 girls and my wife to shop for

i didnt run any fuses on the jumpers or the amp turn but for the lights i would fuse them... i know when i will buy my lights and install them i am going to run a fuse. if i am wrong about not fusing the amp turn on hope someone tunes in and corrects me. edit: also you would need to fuse the relay #87 to 12volt source though

With the relay you will wire 87 to the 12volt source to power the relay, the 86 to the remote lead from your radio so it will turn on, the 85 to a good grounding spot, and the 30 to the junction post box. As you can see with the pic of the post junction box i ran little jumpers from each post from the first one i put the relay to each of the top post of the junction box. from there you can run any wires to that and it should power them up when you turn your radio on. If i need to explain it better i think i may be able to. I could explain it with text in the pics if you need me to i just dont got much time during the week i got to pick up kids from school get ready for work stuff like that. if you need more help i will be happy to help out.

Pics of the switch i got wired up

The cheapest i have seen for the relay at socket set http://www.darvex.com/store/pc/12-Volt-Relay-With-Matching-Wire-Socket-119p799.htm And here is great instructions on how to wire the relay http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/22495-multile-amps-or-accesories-on-remote-lead/ these are what i used to wire the relay.

Thanks i thought i would have been disappointed cuz they were inexpensive speakers. But they are not to bad

I have 2 kicker zx1000.1 on the subs and a kicker zx650.4 on all back door and front door speakers at the moment. i will be getting another 4 channel later cuz i can tell the speakers in the doors want more power

i could show better pics i am just getting ready for work... you could also use a switch from the junction post box to control the on and off like when its day and you dont need the extra drain on the battery. i also have a switch i could show more pics later

I am going to be doing the same thing soon so what i did was get a relay and junction box post splitter and wire it so you could run everything to the splitter and it will turn on when your radio does. Pic for your viewing as far as the volt meter i would run it to the battery that you ran your amps to. although i am not to sure on the volt meter

Hope yall enjoy and lets get some love for these low budget speakers

So i just finished installing the tweeters midbass and the 6.5 in my front doors just going to show you a quick demo and distance test of all cadence speakers. I was on a tight budget with the mids and highs so i went these i dont think they are to bad for the price i got them for. Also just decided to throw these subs in that i am selling just for a short view. the subs are nice im just getting in aq subs so i am getting rid of them. The top one is the preview of mids and highs.

Thanks.... But he has nothing over 300amp I need 350 to 375 so do any big name car audio company makes any fuses that big ? could also use a fused distribution blocks with multiple wires if you need to, although may cost more.

so i am using the torres calc to get the volumes of the planned box i am wanting to build. So i would like to ask if anyone knows how to calculate for bracing and 45's in the corners? With bracing vertical would i have it go through the port?

Yes this will be going into a 07 ford escape. I was playing around with the torres calc. Also AQ emailed me saying that an ideal box volume per sub would be 3.5-5.0. Now i figure i could be within 7-10 cubes net and be ok. So with that information my dimensions could change. I do plan on staying with the 40" width though. And you say that with port across bottom would be good for taller boxes is great info. So i am going to do that box. So how would i calculate for bracing and 45's in the corners? With bracing vertical would i have it go through the port?

by looking at the pics how would i test it witout the cap I just replaced the battery

Ok the first test di nothing I disconnected then put it to the speaker again and the numbers would just keep dropping The type of speaker here closer shot of the terminals by looking at these which ones would be the positive?

yes i do and get zero... but i may just end up buying a better one cause sometimes i get some numbers then i will take the prongs off a press them to the speaker again and get nothing or a lot of different numbers

yes that is the same dmm i got and thats the way its hooked up

what should it bee on? i have moved it in all positions edit also i cant tell which is pos or neg on the speaker i test mine on 2000ohms. but then again mine one of those 1$ dmms. it doesnt matter on the dmm if it ++ or -- is your progs plug into the dmm, in the right terminals on the dmm?. LOL... yes but you would be surprised huh... and yeah i got me a little cheap on also that i picked up from harbor freight.

what should it bee on? i have moved it in all positions edit also i cant tell which is pos or neg on the speaker

Nope but its hard to move it when i need to hold the prongs together. I did that as well and yes they did move As for the speakers being no good i would doubt that cuz i just got them in from audio savings. i will get pics of them i just dont have my phone my wife took it to the store right now. To maybe make it a little easier they are cadence 8" midbass. It does have a little capacitor on it though would that matter? edit: also thought it may have been my dmm so i replaced the battery and tested it on my subs. it seems to be fine

i ave these speakers and when i put the dmm to them i get no reading at all. Any help please?

2007 ford escape