252chevyboyz

Anyone got experience retrieving the RCA voltage on the HU or straight off the RCA's?

@IBleedMusick: If you dont create a thread to post the results in please shoot me a PM with the results. I would greatly appreciate @Chris Hammer: I just uploaded the first video of the Q Powers on the 2.5k. Also got a quick overview of my electrical. I will post a link to it if you would like me to but you could also check out my YT channel. It is also 252chevyboyz. The Q Powers are 700rms and 1500w max. They have been taking the new soundstream like a champ but they have been getting a little warm on the dustcap with the temps between 100-106 degrees outside. Inside the car during the day I'm guess 140-150 degrees if not hotter so they are already warm before they start playing haha. Tinted windows and a Sunshade in the windsheild hardly make a difference. -James

I'm also in for an update man. Glad to hear your going to clamp them Still need to do some reading and figure out how the hell to do this correctly. I probably should get my install done since I need it hooked up to clamp lol. I figure my results should be solid though my electrical in theory will be very solid for 2600w. I have been reading for quite a while on how to clamp as I hope to get a fluke clamp meter soon but on the list before that is a DD-1 and a Kinetik hc600 to run as my third batt. I got 2 autocraft wet cells up front with 1/0 big 3 and 2/0 running from 1st batt to my 2nd. Is a hc600 worth 55 dollars new? There is a shop in wilson that is selling for 79.99 and the owner gave me a 25 dollar off coupon for helping pass the work of the shop at a local show. Oh yea I'm gutting the 4gauge out soon. Ordering a new battery too. I have a little Kinetik HC600(stock batt also) that was perfect with the BRZ1200 but wont cut it once I go bigger. I will be getting a new batt under hood..and another batt in the back. Maybe a used XS from here or a Kinetik or new XS online. I'll probably go with some Trystar 1/0 for all my wiring. http://www.ebay.com/...=item46049edafe About 3$ a foot and I've ordered it before for a friends car. It has a second sleeve that makes stripping easy. Yea I agree with you on the headroom which is why I was thinking the BC2K and I'm thinking I might look for some used amps in the 1.5-2K range. I dont have alot as far as electrical though....No HO alt so I can make up for it in some batteries but I'm hesitant on 2.5K That wire looks good to me man. Has the same 2nd jacket as the Flex-A-Prene but the one thing I like about the Trystar is you have the option of red wire also where the Flex-A-Prene only comes in black. The bc2k does rated @ 13.8v where the rubicon's do rated @ 14.4v just something to point out. Also dont be to weary of a 2.5k as I am running mine with 2 Autocraft wetcells up front with the Stock 124a alt and big 3 and it is performing great @ 1ohm. I also dont have the gains cranked to the max either though cause I dont have a DD-1 and would really prefer not to clip the amp or subs haha. As long as the amp is efficient and doesnt have dirty power you should be ok with electrical especially with the right XS batts.

I'm also in for an update man. Glad to hear your going to clamp them

I got my rub2500.1 hooked up to 2 12" Q Powers wired down to 1ohm. Even with 109 degree heat index today I could still play full tilt and it wouldnt get hot enough to go into protect. It was running right on the verge of hot but I love the amp overall. With the right electrical they are great amps. As scooter said if the 1600 is built like the 2500 I would say you will be really happy with it. I also dont have a clamp meter at the moment but I would love to clamp this thing one day here soon so I know what its really doing. Strong series of amps from what I have experienced so far and dont seem very power hungry. I will dip down to about 13.4v on 20hz but anything above 25hz I stay 13.6 and above. I think it will smash the brz1200.1 and sound much cleaner at the same time. Just my opinion. Also might want to do the big 3 in 1/0 or 0ga. Just to help things charge back up a little quicker. Flex-A-Prene 1/0 is $3.36 a foot and performs well. That is what I run (big 3, to 2nd batt, and to amp power/ground). XS under the hood would help tremendously and a buddy of mine Zac (SMZ2) has a bc2k and sounds great. Also very efficient causing hardly no voltage drop on stock electrical in an Xterra. Running the amp on a Fi bl motor with a Psi recone and basket. Even after demoing and running it full tilt it was barely even warm. Honestly the rub1600.1, bc2k, or rub2500.1 would be great. You can always turn the gains down a little bit if your amp is putting out more power than the subs are rated for. Always nice to have a little headroom on power. I think you would be happy with something 2k-2.5k jsut so you can have a little headroom and not have to crank the gains all the way up. I will post a link to where I bought my 2.5k below. It got to my front door in 4 business days via UPS. Ordered on a Thurs and got it the following Tues. The company emailed me a shipping number as soon as it was shipped from the warehouse. http://www.savinglots.com/lotprod.asp?item=RUB1.1600D http://www.savinglots.com/lotprod.asp?item=RUB1.2500D Hope this can help you out, -James

Ideas or comments on what I'm doing wrong or what I should be doing? -James

Anyone got anything I can try to maybe get a reading on the voltage?

Also in the picture the DMM was set to read AC voltage

Ok just took my dash back apart and pulled the HU unit out and checked AC first and then tried DC and got nothing on either one again. I saw the little connecters or contact plates inside the rca jacks on the HU and made sure the positive lead from the DMM was touching these plates. I put the negative lead where the sheild usually touches. I got pictures below http://i1196.photobucket.com/albums/aa409/252chevyboyz/IMG_20120704_192648.jpg http://i1196.photobucket.com/albums/aa409/252chevyboyz/IMG_20120704_192704.jpg

Yes sir sure did. I tried the right and left channel but still no results. I got a spare set of Q Power RCA's that have never been used if I need to take my dash apart and put those in. I can turn the truck off and plug them back into the amp again and it plays just fine so I'm still gett signal through these rca's

Well I just sat out in the car at the amp for about 10mins trying to figure out how to get a voltage reading off the rca's. I had the "how to" thread pulled up on my phone reading through it as I was at my rca's. Still no luck went through all the AC settings on my DMM (Greenlee DM-20) and got nothing so I tried all the DC settings for the heck of it and nothing either. Should I just try to check it on the back of the HU itself? Not sure what to do here. I know the center pin is postive and the sheild is negative. Would I have to put both pins on the positive lead and both sheilds on the negative lead?

Thanks for the link and I have read that and tried then re-read it and tried again but still couldn't get a voltage. I have been trying for about a week now to get the voltage with my DMM. I am playing a 50hhz tone on repeat so the signal won't change also. Maybe I can figure it out this afternoon. Ill just keep messing around til I finally I get it to work. Any tips?

Would I need to add something like a line driver or anything similar to that to help boost the voltage? The deciding factor on this HU was the 5v preouts. I got it several months back but I wouldn't have to upgrade to another HU would I?

Straight from headunit down the passanger side kicks right to the amp. Nothing inbetween. Thanks for takin the time to reply man

A pair of 17' Memphis Twisted RCA's. Would these be ok? Don't think they are restricting the voltage do you? http://i1196.photobucket.com/albums/aa409/252chevyboyz/IMG_20110801_121910.jpg

Thoughts, hints, or opinions?

I thought that thing didn't look right. I'm on mobile so I couldn't really tell in detail but hopefully its just the diode instead of something expensive or possibly having to replace the amp

In the last picture does it look like the diode is burned up? Looks like its turned blackish and cracked. Kinda like right above the middle of the picture? Maybe a pic with a flashlight shining on that area? -James *edit* Right below where the red/black wires are connected

Name: Big Bang Can You Hang Car & Bike Show Location: 4245 US 70 (EZ Choice Window Tinting) across from Wilbers BBQ Date: Saturday July 28th Time: 11am-5pm Price: $5 to watch $25 to show Hosted By: NC Street Rydaz & EZ Choice Window Tinting Activities for the children: Wonder of Magic, Face Painting, Balloon Artist, & Clowns Music By: DJ 919, J Black, 25/8 ENT, Ladi Pink, Brolic the King, Red Dots ENT, Kimbo the Ruler, Stuicide, Coco Flipping. Also has a book signing with Clifon & Yolanda Baker. Nothing for NSPL. Seems like just a car show not an audio show but for info contact Virgil: 919-709-1546 or Meat: 919-394-3284

Anyone got any ideas or experience with this JVC head unit? I would love to get these gains up to a higher voltage if I can. This heat down here is brutal -James

Also on the amp there is NO bass boost and should I maybe run the HU on "rear" instead of "sub w lvl"?

Hey whats up everyone? As stated above I have a JVC KD-A315 head unit that is suppose to have 5V preouts but I am having trouble getting that 5V to my amp. I am having to run my amp at 1.6-1.7v and I would like to at least run it above 2.5-3V. Does anyone have any ideas why I am having to run such low input voltage? I will post the HU settings below. I am running Soundstream rub2500.1D on 2 12's @ 1ohm. With all this heat in NC I would like to run a higher input voltage so maybe the amp wont run as warm. HU Settings: Bass: 0/6 Mid: 2/6 treb: 4/6 Sub W. lvl: 8/8 Thanks for any help, -James

I got the first of the 2 vids made from the show yesterday (6/30/12) and figured I would share the footage. Sphinxbccp's Blazer was slammin even through the 106 degree heat. Props to Sphinx for such a clean build. Also if anyone else has footage they would like to post please feel free to do so.

Got some skills drawing up which I don't really have. Nice job on the designs and didn't take much time to do well compared to me haha. Anyway I the one witht he slot port at the bottom looks awsome but I like the bottom located ports. Wouldn't the aero ports give him more adjustablity by changing the length of the port? I'm still a noob when it comes to aero ports